Wheelhorse 7 Engine

[PBennison 0]

Hi Everyone,

New to this forum but have loved my WH snowthrower. It is a Wheelhorse 7 4-2651.

Every year it has run great until now. I rebuilt the carb this year and changed the oil. Unfortunately, I added a bit too much oil and it blew out the breather. I soaked the carb, removed and soaked and cleaner the breather but the engine still bogs down under load.

I am thinking of going out and getting a new engine. It looks as though this one has some kind of gear box on it to allow a second pulley. Am I crazy or should I just go ahead and get a new horizontal shaft engine and adapt?

Thanks for any advice. The snowblower itself is a monster so I want to keep that part at a minimum.

[pfrederi 17,171]

I have a walk behind blower with a Tecumseh SnoKing motor.  Worked great for 10 seasons then started surging.  Cleaned carb to no avail.  Spent about $35 on a new after market  Oregon Carb and she is running like new. 

[rmaynard 14,932]

Welcome to RedSquare. I am not familiar with snow throwers, but I think it has a 6hp engine. In any case, the problem sounds like a governor issue. As the engine starts to bog down, the governor should kick in and open the throttle to maintain engine speed.

 

What make and model engine is on the snow thrower? We may have a manual to help you with adjustments.

[PBennison 0]

Model 4-2651 with a Tecumseh engine.

 

Hmmmm. The Governor link got mangled and I tried my best to get it back to where it was. I think that may be my problem. Is there any kind of guides to adjust carb and governor after rebuild? I am (obviously) new to this but once I learn it I am pretty good with getting it going. Would love to not swap out the engine. I just thought I ruined it by too much oil and then frothing it.

[rmaynard 14,932]

I know how to adjust the carb and governor on Kohler engines, but not the Techy. If there is an ID number on the engine, that would help in locating some info for you.

[PBennison 0]

The engine model is.. H70 130024

Thanks.

[rmaynard 14,932]

[dbartlett1958 96]

PBennison,

 

Check the governor linkage with the engine off. Move the rods/springs, etc and check that nothing is binding or rubbing where it shouldn't. Techy carbs are notoriously troublesome if not perfectly clean. They are not complex, but need to be spotless to run properly. Also check the throttle shaft to see if it is worn badly allowing air leakage which can also cause poor idling.

 

Good luck.

[PBennison 0]

Thanks everyone. I went ahead and ordered another carb and will put that in as soon as I get it. 

 

I am having a hard time understanding how the governor and throttle linkage are connected and have not been able to find a good reference photo or anything. I can get the engine to stay running but cannot get it to run smoothly which is why I figured the new carb would help. I have even disconnected the linkages and have played with the governor and throttle but still cannot get it. The Governor itself moves freely, but I will admit it is dirty on the outside. 

[pfrederi 17,171]

The manual linked above has several diagrams of the various linkages.  If you hold the solid rod between teh governor arm and the throttle plate arm does teh engine smooth out? If it does then governoer need adjusting if it still surges your new car should solve it

[PBennison 0]

I have the linkage hooked up according to the diagrams and it will not smooth out. Carb is supposed to be here Friday, so I guess once I get that installed, I will find out.

 

Will post results when I get done. Thanks again..

[PBennison 0]

I installed the new carb and it is running better. Still not as good as it was before but at least it stays running and I can increase power. I have adjusted both the high speed and idle carb adjustment screws. It seems as though the governor moves a very small amount. Don't know if that is normal or not. I would say that it moves about 2 hours out of a complete circle. That seems very minor to me, but I am fairly new to these.

 

Is there a way I can test if the governor is broken? 

[PBennison 0]

OK, I have tried adjusting everything and the engine keeps running very rough. It is hard to start and takes a while to warm up and then under load almost dies. I think I "broke" something when I added too much oil and it came frothing out the breather. Since then I have installed a new carburetor, cleaned the breather, new spark plug ran fuel additive, adjusted the governor so I guess I may just buy a new engine.

 

Here is my dilemma. I can find a horizontal shaft engine but I am puzzled by the dual pulleys on the existing machine. Is there some way the piece shown below can be reused on a new engine? Sorry for my lack of knowledge but I love the snowblower and just want to get an engine that does not take me 15 minutes and a bunch of carb cleaner to start.

 

Pat

 

 

Edited January 5, 2014 by PBennison

[pfrederi 17,171]

I am not familiar with your snowblower but from the diagram it appears in addition to the crankshaft pulley you may have a second pulley mounted on the cam shaft.  I have not seen that on a snowblower but I believe some roto tillers used such a design. I would guess you could swap the cam shaft and engine end plate from your current motor to another H70 that had only a crankshaft pulley. 

[illinilefttackle 399]

This is the manual for your type of snowblower- The small pulley actually drives your forward motion-so it is a necessity-my advice would be to look for a used engine-Good Luck-Al

 

Snowthrower_26in_Walk_behind_1970_4-2651.pdf

[PBennison 0]

Wanted to update everyone on this. I was ready to give up and actually started looking for replacement engines. I figured I would try one last thing. I bought one of those electronic ignition conversion kits to replace the points and condensor. Well, I was really psyched because it runs great now. I still have to make some adjustments but man the thing fires up and it sounds awesome. Best part is that the kit cost me about $15. I would recommend this to anyone. A couple key things I will update this on.

 

Thank you to everyone who replied and helped me. I would never have been able to get there without this forum. It is simply awesome and I hope this helps someone.

 

Pat

[pfrederi 17,171]

Wanted to update everyone on this. I was ready to give up and actually started looking for replacement engines. I figured I would try one last thing. I bought one of those electronic ignition conversion kits to replace the points and condensor. Well, I was really psyched because it runs great now. I still have to make some adjustments but man the thing fires up and it sounds awesome. Best part is that the kit cost me about $15. I would recommend this to anyone. A couple key things I will update this on.

 

Thank you to everyone who replied and helped me. I would never have been able to get there without this forum. It is simply awesome and I hope this helps someone.

 

Pat

 

 

That is great news glad it worked out for you

[AMC RULES 36,955]

Got a link/source to share for your new electronic ignition conversion kit?    

[PBennison 0]

Got a link/source to share for your new electronic ignition conversion kit?    

Here is the link to ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231068692444?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

If the link does not work, here is the ebay store. http://stores.ebay.com/LEROYS-OUTDOOR-POWER-PARTS?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

 

It is called "Mega Fire Universal Ignition Module" and is available on Amazon as well.

 

The instructions show a single wire from the coil to the Points/Condenser cut and spliced to the positive side of the new module. On mine there were two wires from the coil, one to the condenser and one to the points. You have to ground the one wire that was going to the condenser, I did not do that first time, but once I did that it ran perfect.