D180 transaxle

[pawillie1947 0]

I just aquired a D180 with a transaxle problem any suggestions?

It will not move (forward or reverse) It has what appears to be transmission fluid in it which I plan on draining and replacing with called for 10W30 oil.

What should I flush the system with?

With the rear wheels off the ground they will turn some of the time.

Also the 3pt hitch works find with good hydraulic preasure. 

[.5racer 14]

make sure the bypass is shut  It is on the side through a hole , make sure the valve is closed and see f it moves then

[jeremi3210 688]

I would start by downloading the sunstrand manual and checking the charge pressure.

[pawillie1947 0]

I checked and valve is closed.

I tries to move but won,t

When jacked up both wheels turn freely (opposite wheel in other direction)

I searched for but could not find transaxle manual. Tractor manual ref it as A-1371

[Trouty56 565]

[pfrederi 17,192]

I would stick with whatever type fluid is in there now (red = Dexron ATF, Tan = 10w-30 motor oil)  Flushing the system is a big project, first i would try to figure out why she will not move.

 

If the 3 pt will lift you up then the charge pump is probably acceptable. however there are several other potential issue.  The trouble shooting guide in the manual is the place to start.

[pawillie1947 0]

Thanks to all.

As I said just got it yesterday and want to get it working asap.

Will be tearing in to it today.

Have a 6' blade and garden plow and want to find loader and tiller.

 

Bill

Wheatland, Pa.

[.5racer 14]

And remember

[pawillie1947 0]

Found problem and it ISN'T PRETTY.

Question is do I rebuild or find a used replacement?????????

Where is the best place to get parts?

 

 

Edited November 23, 2013 by pawillie1947

[pacer 3,160]

AW. jeez that makes me sick and it aint even mine .... makes it even worse because I've got a D-180 too!

[Trouty56 565]

I can't open the link.....

[brandonozz 168]

Well, Racer said we wanted pictures but that isn't what we wanted to see!  Looks like the bolt(s) that hold the differential together came loose/broke and allowed the everything to get loose and chew up the pinion gears.  Those bolts are the weak link in these D tractors.  When re-assembling most guys go with grade 9 bolts and locking nuts and even use locktite on the nuts.  I see one of the diff end caps broke out a bolt hole and caused wear in the others.  Thats ugly!

The good news (or bad news depending on how you look at it) is that when this happens and the bolt first lets go, the bolt or nut usually gets pinched between the bull gear and the case and cracks the case.  This happened to my D200 and the previous owner - bought it that way and had to repair it.  When oil starts pouring out you know you have a problem.  In this case, the tractor looks like it kept being used and chewed all the gears up and flooded the hydraulic pump and motor with metal savings .... which isn't good.  Hydraulic pump and motor may have taken some abuse from the debris. 

I think you can look for a good used transaxle to swap into the D.   I'd take apart the trans and inspect, clean and install grade 9 bolts and axle seals before installing in the tractor.  I havent had the "pleasure" of getting into the pump or motor but some guys will likely recommend you inspect those for damage as well and there are several threads with great instructions if it comes to that.  Myself, I would install the replacement trans and run it and see if it pulls good and then drain and fill the fluid a time or two to get any additional debris out.

 

Best of luck and keep us posted, Brandon

Edited November 23, 2013 by brandonozz

[pawillie1947 0]

Thanks for all the help guys.

My thoughts exactly brandonozz on the bolts. I guess I'll start looking for a good diff or complete transaxle. What models use the same transaxle.

A complete assembly was listed on EBay for $199 but they took best offer yesterday. Thats the way my luck goes.

Now that I have it apart and have to do a complete flush of the system what is the best fluid to use Dextron or 10X30?

[.5racer 14]

sorry I asked ,,,,,,,, looks like a replacement is in order and keep and clean what you have for parts or a slow cheap rebuild later

[pawillie1947 0]

I found a deal on two more bare bones tractors a D160 and a D180. I plan on pulling the 160 transaxle, tear it down, inspect,replace diff bolts and install it in the 180 I have which has a 3 point and PTO.Whats the best way to flush system? I was thinking fill with kerosine run a little drain then repeat a second time. 

Edited November 24, 2013 by pawillie1947

[Trouty56 565]

I would not do that.....no to kerosene

Best tear it all down.....

[pawillie1947 0]

What do you suggest to flush system? Need to get any shavings out.  Also my transaxle had Dextron in it and replacement 10W30.

Since the manufacturer switched to 10W30 I would think it's better. 

Edited November 24, 2013 by pawillie1947

[Trouty56 565]

Well the last thing you want to do is run kerosene through that piston to piston hydraulic system.....if nothing else the screen at the motor kept most of the shavings out and what got through are in the filter.....If you have a D-180 it already had 10W-30 in it to begin with....in other words if you are not planning on taking the pump and motor apart for an inspection.....get a new transaxle.....clean off the screen on the motor and get a new filter from Toro or get a Napa 1410.....button it up......and give it a try.....

[Trouty56 565]

Nothing wrong with Dexron if that is what was in it.....

[pawillie1947 0]

That sounds good to me. TNKs

[brandonozz 168]

I'm not sure the best way to "flush" the system.  Even tearing down all the parts, flushing everything would be difficult.  If it were me, I think I would go back with Mobil 1 synthetic 10W 30 and run for a bit operating the lifts multiple times and then drain and refill again with a new filter.  There are several that swear by the Mobil 1 so that is what I went with when I put mine back together.  I don't think the pump and motor in mine are 100% but the oil never gets hot when using to this point. 

Maybe some of the "experts" that have more experience will chime in and give their opinions.

[Trouty56 565]

From what I understand pawillie is going to replace the transaxle with one that he will have apart and cleaned....replacing the bull gear bolts with grade 8's......(pawillie...now would be a good time to use kerosene...when you have the replacement tranny apart)....then fill with new oil and filter.....any particles will be trapped in the filter during the return to the transaxle....seems a waste to drain filtered oil...maybe a couple weeks replace the filter but by then he will know if the pump and/or motor are adequate....

[brandonozz 168]

I understand what your saying about changing the filter after running for a while.  My suggestion was to go with Mobil 1 based on the high praise by many that use it.  My guess is there is still contaminents and ATF in the pump/ motor/ mannifold/ hoses and cylinders.  Getting it going, testing it out and circulating the fluids (to the filter) and then draining the fluid that has a little ATF contamination seems like a small price to pay for peace of mind.

[baerpath 517]

If it didn't chew the ends of the axle for around $ 100 you could replace the whole dif and leave the others whole. I say that cause I have one out.

[squonk 39,113]

If it was me I would fill it it with what ever oil your going to use. If your switching from Dex to motor oil get the cheap std. stuff from Wally or wherever and run it some. Maybe do it twice. Then when you are satisfied that it's clean and working ok, drain it, change filter again and put in synthetic.