New Owner Of a WH 518-H (Ugh Eaton 700?)

[Draught Horse 0]

Hello all,

 

Sorry, noob here........

 

So I bought my 2ed Wheel Horse. (518-H) 31180E01 My last one I had was about 18 years ago and don't remember too much about it other then it had Hydro deck. 

 

Did I do OK on buying this used tractor? I read over some of the forum here and read about the Eaton 700 pump that from all I read is not so good for the use of pushing snow? How do I tell if this maybe has be upgraded to a Eaton 1100 ?  Does the Eaton 1100 just bolt on where the 700 is now?

 

The tractor has 1800hrs run time but how do I tell if the motor was replaced? Do I need to just do a compression test on it?  (30 days money back from dealer)  Just looking at it, looks like the last owner took good care of it. I bought it from a dealer from a trade in. Paid $850.00 Came with mowing deck and snow blade.

 

 

I have about a ten car parking lot I need to take care of this winter. Do you think this tractor is OK for the job?

 

I am sure I'll have others questions...  Much thanks for those that post up!

 

Thanks for this site! Glad I found it.

 

DH

 

 

[Fordiesel69 271]

Look at the back of the transmission, if there is no oil filter there, you have the 700.  

 

If the 700 is good and strong, and you change the fluid every 100 hrs as directed, it will be just fine.  The problem is not knowing if the prior owner did.

 

Worst case is to use it till it gets weak, then swap for a 1100 unit. 

[Draught Horse 0]

"Look at the back of the transmission, if there is no oil filter there, you have the 700. "

 

 

 

Thanks, I'll check tomorrow in the light.   

 

"Worst case is to use it till it gets weak, then swap for a 1100 unit. "

 

 

So it's just a pump switch? You make it sound like a easy fix. Maybe for a pro. I am just 1/2 a pro. lol

 

Thanks for the heads up!

 

 

1-Other:  What should the compression be for Owen 18 ?

 

Update: Found

 

Onan 18 hp compression question

 

Question:

Manual say between 90 and 100 psi. The actual readings are 92 to 115 psi. What does it mean when the compression over as with teh 115 ready?

 

Answer:

You may have some carbon buildup in the cylinders. If it runs ok I wouldn't worry about it. Hal

 

2ed Answer:

Perhaps you wouldn't worry about it but I certainly would. Owners are required to decarbon their engines every 500 hours max. Failure to do this can result in catastrophic engine failure. There is very little room between the top of the piston and the underside of the head in these engines. Carbon on both, reduces this space to nil. When that happens, the piston starts banging up against the head. Guess what happens then?

 

Me

Decarbon a engine?

Edited November 12, 2013 by Draught Horse

[Draught Horse 0]

 

Worst case is to use it till it gets weak, then swap for a 1100 unit. 

 

 

 

 

Does anyone show this on a video? thanks

Edited November 12, 2013 by Draught Horse

[sorekiwi 761]

Just last week I swapped an Eaton 700 out in favor of an Eaton 1100 on a 516.

 

It will all just bolt in.  The Eaton 1100's have hydraulics for the implement lift so you will need to swap out those bits as well.  All the holes are already there for mounting the spool valve.  The hydraulic rockshaft is different from the manual lift one, if this has rusted onto the shaft it will be the hardest part of the swap.  I also needed to swap out the brake/neutral actuating rod from the brake pedal to the one from the donor tractor as it has some extra bends in it to clear the hydraulic cylinder for the implement lift.

 

The Eaton 700 in my tractor was fine while mowing grass, and I suspect it would probably push snow OK as well.  However it protested badly when I asked it to pull a plug aerator loaded with 200 lbs of sandbags so I decided to swap it out.

 

The trans itself is very similar to the 1100 trans, the difference is that the pump on the 1100 is a bit bigger and is equipped with the auxiliary hydraulics.  Also the 1100 has separate oil systems for the pump and the mechanical transmission.  The 700 shares the same oil in both systems.

[KC9KAS 4,744]

 , and

[leeave96 490]

Just last week I swapped an Eaton 700 out in favor of an Eaton 1100 on a 516.

It will all just bolt in. The Eaton 1100's have hydraulics for the implement lift so you will need to swap out those bits as well. All the holes are already there for mounting the spool valve. The hydraulic rockshaft is different from the manual lift one, if this has rusted onto the shaft it will be the hardest part of the swap. I also needed to swap out the brake/neutral actuating rod from the brake pedal to the one from the donor tractor as it has some extra bends in it to clear the hydraulic cylinder for the implement lift.

The Eaton 700 in my tractor was fine while mowing grass, and I suspect it would probably push snow OK as well. However it protested badly when I asked it to pull a plug aerator loaded with 200 lbs of sandbags so I decided to swap it out.

The trans itself is very similar to the 1100 trans, the difference is that the pump on the 1100 is a bit bigger and is equipped with the auxiliary hydraulics. Also the 1100 has separate oil systems for the pump and the mechanical transmission. The 700 shares the same oil in both systems.

Just curious, how does your Eaton 1100 pull with the aerator and weight - that would be an interesting comparison having apples to apples comparisons.

I didn't know the 1100 uses separate oil systems. I've only replaced the oil in mine - out the tranny bottom and in the top. Is there another fluid fill I'm neglecting?

Thanks,

Bill

[Kelly 1,033]

Mike double check your info the eaton 1100 uses the same oil for both systems the 700 has gear oil and pump oil, but yes the rockshaft will be the hardest thing to swap, you really need a parts tractor to do the swap, there are a few thing that are needed you may not get with just buying a trans

[squonk 43,843]

Couldn't  you redo the oil lines and just loop them and forgo the lift mech?

[sorekiwi 761]

Mike double check your info the eaton 1100 uses the same oil for both systems the 700 has gear oil and pump oil,

 

Sorry - you guys are correct, I knew the two systems were different, got them mixed up when I wrote that.  Should have gone to bed at a reasonable time!!

 

Just curious, how does your Eaton 1100 pull with the aerator and weight - that would be an interesting comparison having apples to apples comparisons.

 

I actually haven't pulled anything with the "new" trans, but I suspect that the 700 was a little worn out.  It may have been fine 25 years ago.  I have read somewhere that the Eaton 700 was never intended for "ground engaging implements".  At some stage I "should" have another look at that 700 and see if its saveable.  It worked fine for mowing.

 

Couldn't  you redo the oil lines and just loop them and forgo the lift mech?

 

I personally haven't done this but I know others on here have.  There are some threads on here about what is involved.

 

I was amazed that the rockshafts on both my 516 and the C145 (the donor tractor) both just slid apart.  Every other 300+ series tractor I have owned have been real SOB's to get them out.

[Draught Horse 0]

Just last week I swapped an Eaton 700 out in favor of an Eaton 1100 on a 516.

 

It will all just bolt in.  The Eaton 1100's have hydraulics for the implement lift so you will need to swap out those bits as well.  All the holes are already there for mounting the spool valve.  The hydraulic rockshaft is different from the manual lift one, if this has rusted onto the shaft it will be the hardest part of the swap.  I also needed to swap out the brake/neutral actuating rod from the brake pedal to the one from the donor tractor as it has some extra bends in it to clear the hydraulic cylinder for the implement lift.

 

The Eaton 700 in my tractor was fine while mowing grass, and I suspect it would probably push snow OK as well.  However it protested badly when I asked it to pull a plug aerator loaded with 200 lbs of sandbags so I decided to swap it out.

 

The trans itself is very similar to the 1100 trans, the difference is that the pump on the 1100 is a bit bigger and is equipped with the auxiliary hydraulics.  Also the 1100 has separate oil systems for the pump and the mechanical transmission.  The 700 shares the same oil in both systems.

 

 

Thank you for the information! I think I will obtain a 1100 and let it sit until I need it or I am bored. 

 , and

 

I'll try to get some soon and post them. Thank you!

 

 

 

 

Question: To decarbonize an engine anyone here use seafoam?

Edited November 12, 2013 by Draught Horse

[KC9KAS 4,744]

"Question: To decarbonize an engine anyone here use seafoam?"

 

I use SEAFOAM all the time in my small internal combustion engines.

I add a 16 oz can to 5 gallons of gasoline then use this mixture for my GT's and other yard equipment.

[JackC 617]

 

 

Draught Horse says: "Owners are required to decarbon their engines every 500 hours max. Failure to do this can result in catastrophic engine failure. There is very little room between the top of the piston and the underside of the head in these engines. Carbon on both, reduces this space to nil. When that happens, the piston starts banging up against the head. Guess what happens then?"

 

I agree, and maybe a compression test that gives higher than normal readings could be an indication that the decarbon procedure needs to be done.

[rexman72 210]

welcome to RS

[cheesegrader 433]

I'm not an expert, but I can't imagine that adding seafoam to the gas is going to do anything about the carbon in an engine with 1800 hours.

It might slow future buildup, but it isnt going to clean out what you already have.

If you are serious about this problem, you are going to have to take off the covers, scrub them clean with a 3M pad or the like, 

and put the covers back on with new gaskets.

I don't think there is a short-cut.

Just my opinion.

[Fordiesel69 271]

The carbon needs to be done by hand.  After which you can maintian with seafoam.

[Draught Horse 0]

I'm not an expert, but I can't imagine that adding seafoam to the gas is going to do anything about the carbon in an engine with 1800 hours.

It might slow future buildup, but it isnt going to clean out what you already have.

If you are serious about this problem, you are going to have to take off the covers, scrub them clean with a 3M pad or the like, 

and put the covers back on with new gaskets.

I don't think there is a short-cut.

Just my opinion.

 

Yeah, I don't know how the last owner took care of the engine. I guess my first thing will be a compression test. (have to go buy another tool) If that go's high then do the sand paper? I'll have to look at a (How to video) since I never did it before.  Are the covers required to be torqued down to a specific poundage?

 

Thanks all for the help!