Sycoticca 37 #1 Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) It seems that I am having problems getting this thing to have spark...the motor itself is completely rebuilt. new rod, piston, rings and such. My question is, is there any good schematics of the Ignition system out there with proper testing scenarios. I tested the coil it seems to be ok with 11,000 to 12,000 ohms as stated that it should have when tested and the trigger appears to be functional as well. What is the procedure for testing the Alt. coil. That maybe what the culprit is. As a test can I just wire hot from the battery to power everything, the manual says that a wire comes from the switch to the trigger and then to the coil... Can I just come from the battery to the trigger and coil to bypass the switch...(if that is the problem) Lastly...... If all else fails I've been seeing kits to convert the breakerless ign to breakered ign ..it doesn't mention new flywheel or backplate or anything... Any thoughts on that would be helpful. Would almost rather go this route so I do not need to worry about the expense of replacing the breakerless equipment later... Thanks, Tim... Edited October 8, 2013 by Sycoticca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,541 #2 Posted October 7, 2013 Do NOT apply battery power to the ignition. It is self powered and the ignition wire is simply grounded to shut the ignition off. Breakerless ignition is treated like magneto ignition. Here is a 1972 Kohler servicve manual Illustration 6-5 on page 6.3 shows the ignition switch and how it grounds the circuit. This later manual http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/674-engine-kohler-k-series-sm-tp-2379pdf/ includes a 22 ohm 1/2 watt resister added to prevent current feedback from a dirty or wet ignition switch to protect the trigger. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sycoticca 37 #3 Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) I pulled off the Flywheel and pulled the coil off as well to inspect it. It appears that there was a ground wire coming off the main steel body ... is that supposed to be grounded to ground. I can snap a pick if needed... There should be two a/c leads and one ignition lead correct?. Edited October 8, 2013 by Sycoticca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sycoticca 37 #4 Posted October 8, 2013 No ideas out there at all.. ??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,541 #5 Posted October 8, 2013 I am not ignoring you. I just don't know. Hopefully someone that has been into one of these will respond soon. I noticed in the manual there are 18 coil posts and 2 of them are for the ignition - 16 for charging. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sycoticca 37 #6 Posted October 9, 2013 I am not ignoring you. I just don't know. Hopefully someone that has been into one of these will respond soon. I noticed in the manual there are 18 coil posts and 2 of them are for the ignition - 16 for charging. Garry I know that...I was just trying to put a spark out there... Tim. It seems that the manuals are pretty vague at trying to trouble shoot... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Irv 115 #7 Posted October 9, 2013 Are you sure the trigger switch is ok? I had similar problem with an electro after messing with wiring and it turned out that the trigger switch was ng. they are exspensive and hard to come by but there is one on e-ay now for a reasonable price. I don't know about the ground wire. good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #8 Posted October 9, 2013 The ground wire is used to kill the ignition and should be wired through the ignition switch to ground it out. If kill wire is grounded out anywhere in your wiring you won't have a spark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sycoticca 37 #9 Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) Thanks guys I will look into that ... Edited October 9, 2013 by Sycoticca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,874 #10 Posted January 16, 2014 Just came across this older post. Did you ever figure it out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sycoticca 37 #11 Posted January 20, 2014 Unfortunately no... I really haven't been messing with it lately either though. But my thoughts are now that we are not mowing grass down here in Florida now for the season I am going to pull the 8hp off of my c-81 and power up the hydro pump on the Electro to see if all of that is functional correct... If it is not I've got bigger fish to fry so to speak than getting the 12hp running if you know what I mean. I am looking into the possibilities of a repower just haven't decided on a proper size and brand yet. I really want to keep it old factory with the 12hp kohler but I can always keep that on display while I use something else in the meantime. Tim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,874 #12 Posted January 20, 2014 I had a similar problem with my tractor. here it is from another post. I have used a 1969 Electro 12 with that ignition system for years and always starts on first crank regardless of conditions. However one time after using it the day before when I went to start it there was no spark. After testing both coil and trigger and not being sure of results I went on the quest for replacements. Not easy or cheap. While tractor was apart and waited for a trigger I see that wiring needed some care so I decided to re wire entire tractor. That was when I found cause of problem. Tucked in the back of dash in a totally impossible place to work is the alternator where I see that connector wires got loose and a little corroded over time and one came off and was touching the other one. Result is that it fried the stator under flywheel . This one has 3 wires instead of the regular 2 and if I thought that the coil and trigger were expensive and hard to find , this one was a real whopper . Not wanting to convert it to a point system since I had already sprung for a trigger I kept looking. Luckily I found one guy on eBay that had a NOS one in original box and also a NOS coil both advertised for a Case tractor. Worked out a deal with him off eBay and got both. All three NOS cost me $280.00 which if anyone has been looking you know is pretty cheap. I have been looking for another stator since then just to have a spare and have never seen another one since. So I recommend to anyone with a tractor having this ignition to take a look at those connections at the alternator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
