Chat6155 3 #1 Posted September 26, 2013 Tearing into my first Kohler for a rebuild and have 2 questions so far... 1. For camshaft removal, is it preferrable to press the shaft out from the PTO side or the Flywheel side, or does it matter? 2. Other than being intact and free, anything special to look for on the governor gear / weights? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #2 Posted September 26, 2013 The camshaft is on a tapered pin and must be driven out from the pto side. I recommend you download the Kohler engine manual. Everything (almost) you will need to know is in there. The rest of your questions can probably be answered here! As far as the governor gear, check for worn or broken teeth, wear on the hub and free movement of the weights. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 232 #3 Posted September 27, 2013 I punched mine out from the pto side, letting the dowel pin come out the flywheel side. Opposite upon reassembly. It is not a tampered pin in any way. It is just easier to drive it that way. Measure the cam lobes for wear. Inspect the gov gear for cracks or loose weights. No need to take it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,945 #4 Posted September 27, 2013 As stated above, the pin is not tapered, but the hole in the PTO side of the engine is machine slightly smaller than the hole in the flywheel side. Punching the pin out the wrong way can not only enlarge the hole and prevent the pin from being secured tightly, but it can also damage the pin. Always punch from the PTO side, and reinsert from the flywheel side. Also, as stated above, download and read the manual. I have found it helpful to read the reassembly section prior to doing any disassembly. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diesel cowboy 263 #5 Posted September 27, 2013 As others said check everything for wear. When it comes to the governor gear if I'm that far into the engine it gets replaced no matter what. Its worth it to me to not have to worry if there was some wear or a crack I missed and have it break apart. I also change the governor cross shaft while I'm in there. Had more than one come into work with the tab broken off and thats the first thing to go in during a rebuild. Stewart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chat6155 3 #6 Posted September 27, 2013 Thanks all! Found, downloaded and printed the manual. With a bit of common sense, I just about got it to disassemble itself down to the cam & governor. Wanted to ask before I went any further. Forddiesel69, Yep, I want to get EVERYTHING out to do a through inspection [initial oil pan removal]... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #7 Posted September 27, 2013 Yeah, that rod is toast. After complete disassembly, check that block and pan CAREFULLY for damage. Personally, I would leave the balance gears out when reassembling. Keep us posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chat6155 3 #8 Posted September 27, 2013 Not to worry...being a novice, I've read in depth about the internals and decided early on that the balance gears, shims, spacers, clips and the pins will now reside in a coffee can hidden away in the garage somewhere. Haven't sent the block to the machine shop yet, but initial inspection doesn't reveal any damage to the block or cam. Hoping that muratic acid will clean up the crank throw enough to get a good reading on it. If no one minds, I did come up with 2 more question... 1. On both ends of the crank, where the seals ride, there is a very minor groove. I can see it, but can barely catch my fingernail on it. Could anyone with experience in this area shed some light as to weither I should worry about it or not? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chat6155 3 #9 Posted September 27, 2013 Goofed on that one.... 2. Looking for parts online, I came across a supplier known as 'Debs Tractor Parts'. Prices seem good. Anyone ever had any dealings with them? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
