High rev issue

[partin_us_99 0]

So after looking through countless posts from several different sites I figured might as well ask on this app. So my original b &s engine needs rebuilt so I traded for another b&s very similar to the original in mu gt2500. Problem is with out having my hand on the throttle butterfly to open or shut it the engine revs really high. The govener is hooked up idk if its correct tho. Ill get pics and a video of the issue. Bc id like to figure this out before snow fall.

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[partin_us_99 0]

170432 0162-01 6612021

These are the numbers on the engine

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[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

Will guess this motor has a fixed throttle that has an adjustment on the governor control plate. Do the following with the engine not running. Look for a knurled knob you can back off so you are working with a manageable rpm. As you are backing it off watch for a small lever in a curved slot on the control plate that the adjustment changes. Should be a small hole in the lever to hook the tractor's throttle cable to. The tractor's throttle casing needs to be mounted to the panel also.

 

A governor tries to reduce engine rpm.

The throttle tries to increase rpm via a spring between the throttle and the governor linkage.

The resulting engine speed is the balance between those 2 forces.

 

Garry

[partin_us_99 0]

Ah. See theres no spring controlling this carb only the link from the gov to throttle valve. Any guess as to where so called spring should be?

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[partin_us_99 0]

That linkage on the bottom ismt hooked to anything since the choke has its own handle and the throttle adjustment wont work on this engine either

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[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

There should be a series of holes in the governor arm between the governor shaft and the rod going to the carb. The spring goes in one of the holes and the other end hooks into a lever behind the plate that you throttle cable moves.

The hole used in the governor arm determines how responsive the throttle is meaning is it slow to react with load change or reacts to fast making for erratic engine speed. You don't want it speeding up on every bump.

 

Go to

http://www.partstree.com/parts/

Type Briggs in the 2nd box.

Type 170432 in the 3rd box and Go

Select the 0162 from the results

Open the Cyl,CrankCase,Piston,GearCase page and item 209 is the governor spring you need.

Be real careful not to stretch the spring in the process of installing it.

 

Still be careful it does not over rev on startup. The governor made need to be adjusted to the carb but let us know when you get to that point and we can explain the process.

 

Garry

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

It may be simpler than I thought. The governor arm may be specific to this engine and have only one hole for the spring.

If you have to remove the governor arm to install the spring the governor adjustment must be made. The arm just clamps to the shaft.

Garry

[partin_us_99 0]

Ok think ive got what ur sayin. Will it make a difference if my throttle linkage isnt hooked to anything? Or do I need to hook the spring up to that piece that moves when throttle is adjusted?

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[partin_us_99 0]

Just went out to put the spring on the gov and the throttle adjustment linkage plate but every hole I try it holds the throttle wide open instead of closed. Also yes theres only one hole on gov arm but several places to put it on the throttle linkage plate on that whole assembly. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2

Edited September 28, 2013 by partin_us_99

[partin_us_99 0]

I think im missing two springs. Heres some diagrams ive found. this one makes me think I need two springs. Am I wrong? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2

Edited September 28, 2013 by partin_us_99

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

I believe some models use spring 232 over rod 212. It hooks on the same arms the rod hooks to and just keeps everything tight.

Link or rod 216 is what applies the choke on models that have choke beyond the high speed throttle position. Choke and throttle on same control.

Garry

[partin_us_99 0]

Ok. Hmmmm. So I get the one side hooks to gov then the other end hooks to something that will keep throttle butterfly closed?

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[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

Just went out to put the spring on the gov and the throttle adjustment linkage plate but every hole I try it holds the throttle wide open instead of closed. Also yes theres only one hole on gov arm but several places to put it on the throttle linkage plate on that whole assembly. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2

Holding the throttle wide open may be normal. When it starts the governor will close it.

Better adjust the governor arm to make sure. This is done with the engine not running.

Manually move the throttle plate from idle postion to wide open throttle.

As you do this note which way the governor shaft turns and mark that down on paper. Clockwise or counter-clockwise

Now loosen the bolt that clamps the governor arm to the shaft enough that the arm will rotate on the shaft.

Move the carb throttle to wide open position and hold it there. May need help or a strong elastic.

Now go to the governor shaft and rotate it in the same direction that you marked down as far as it will go. Just light pressure and you will feel it stop.

Now tighten the clamp bolt enough that the arm does not rotate on the shaft.

This should be done any time a carb or governor arm has been removed.

Garry

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

Ok. Hmmmm. So I get the one side hooks to gov then the other end hooks to something that will keep throttle butterfly closed?

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One end hooks to the governor arm and the other end hooks to something that will pull on the spring with your throttle cable. I would not worry about the open throttle with it not running. Many are like that. The governor will likely close it as soon as it starts.

Garry

[partin_us_99 0]

K got the spring added to the right hole. That entire setup defies the normal laws of engineering haha. Seems to run decent started out gettin too much fuel then it still had a hunting idle but not near as bad as before. I tried adjusting both screws but neither really had an impact on how it ran. Only screw that did was the idle screw on the butterfly itself. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2

Edited September 28, 2013 by partin_us_99

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

Something you can try with this 2-pc flojet carb.

 

Somehow shut the fuel off either by valve or pinch the hose flat with locking pliers.

Back out the high-speed mixture screw on the bottom 2 turns.

Now remove the nut that holds the high-speed mixture screw with the screw still in the nut.

Be ready to catch the fuel that comes out in a clean container. What you are doing is draining the fuel from the float bowl. See how much dirt is in it. Remove the fuel shut off to let the fuel flow again into a clean container. This may flush dirt out of the needle and seat. If you ever need to disassemble the carb there is a nozzle threaded into the body above the nut and needle assembly. The nozzle must be removed before you open the carb up. Once you do that there is a whole new bunch of problems created.

After you reinstall the nut lightly bottom out the mixture screw and then back it out 1-1/2 turns. That should get it running and you and fine tune it after the engine is hot.

 

Good time to add an inline fuel filter if it does not have one.

 

Get a can of Seafoam and treat the fuel tank to a healthy dose. It may clean the jets up while running it since it does run.

 

Garry

[partin_us_99 0]

Ill give that a shot. Got a lot inside to do today bc its raining prolly most of the day. Ya its got an inline filter and a fuel shut off valve so ill drain and inspect. Prolly get some seafoam thus week and add it. Hopefully I can get it to make a difference with the two adjustment screws.

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[partin_us_99 0]

Looks like im gonna need a new fuel filter. The gas coming out of the bowl has lil chunks in it. Just looks like lil pieces of crap nothing metal or carbon just crud so im cleaning the gas tank and replacing the fuel filter and cleaning fuel lines and valve.

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