50" Mid Mount Grader Blader Model 79351

[P3x 54]

Have some questions on installing a 50" Grader Blade on a 520H. Purchased it a couple of years ago with all components including the 12" solid link bar (jogs on each end) for down pressure. Used it once to re-grade the foundation when first purchased and do not recall running into any install issues.  Went to install it to do some lawn renovation the other day and ran into the top portion of the link bar hitting the steering gear. Not sure if the steering components have worn since causing the interference  or as I've aged a couple of years maybe suffering from a senior moment - not sure which is worse!

 

Checked the manual and it states to install the link with the "notch" up - to the forward most hole in the rock shaft bell crank with its pins pointing outboard to the right. The link I have does not have a notch although the pins are attached closer to one side/edge of the bar. I installed it with the short edge positioned next to the steering gear (pin pointing to the right) when installed which gives max. clearance but not enough.

 

With the mower lift trunion currently installed in the 3rd hole aft in the rock shaft bell crank, the clearance is not sufficient to install the Grader link in the 2nd hole. As it's been a couple of years I do not remember if I installed it in any position other than the FWD hole or having to disconnect the mower lift trunion. So to sum up this confusing post, I have the following questions:

 

What position bell crank hole position do you attach the top Grader bar link to?

 

Do you need to disconnect/remove the mower trunion and chain when connecting the grader link and do you attach it to the 2nd hole aft on the bell crank?

 

Additionally, the grader blade index spring is among the missing in my mess in the garage. Can someone tell me its approximate length? I figure I can get something locally to work.

 

Thanks for bearing with me on these questions...

 

P3x

 

 

[Tankman 3,515]

Sorry, can't answer your question but, this might help.

 

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=Toro+Consumer&mn=79351

[MalMac 1,328]

I have not had mine on any hydro's. I can tell you that for me personally I have had to remove the mower trunion or what lifts your t-bar. That thing just kept getting it the way. Been a while since I have used it, but I don't remember anything in the manual that says Remove the mower trunion. I did and it made life way more easier.

[Hydro 130]

I hope this diagram will help you.  The spring is about 6" in overall length and about 1/2" in diameter.  If you are floating the grader blade you do not need to remove the mower trunion and chain but if you are going solid link then yes you do.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,513]

Additionally, the grader blade index spring is among the missing in my mess in the garage. Can someone tell me its approximate length? I figure I can get something locally to work.

 

 

P3x

 

The 102572 spring is made of .070" wire.

There are 32 coils with an OD of 9/16" by about 2-1/4" long.

Inside the hooks is about 5" long.

The long hook is 2-1/4" from the end of the coil and is bent over the end of the coil.

The short hook is 7/16" from the coil and bends in the opposite direction to outside the coil.

Both hooks come off the same side of the coil but are bent in opposite directions.

 

Clear as mud?

 

Garry

[P3x 54]

Hi Folks,

 

I got some springs  locally for the handle and used a shorter link I have for a dozer blade and used it with the mower T Bar and chain and floated the grader blade. It did a fairly good job digging up the remnants of the killed weeds/grass, but could not get all and missed the down pressure.  While grading and thinking about it the brain fart cleared...  Could not get the 12" jogged link installed as I had the rock shaft in the full down position while attempting to connect the LWR bar link to the grader (I'm dense some times). 

 

As it got dark brought it in the garage disconnected the T bar and ran the lift/rock shaft up a bit and was able to connect the 12" bar link easily. Now as before can lift the front wheels clear of the ground.    Although with the blade full up there is not too much ground clearance but I'm ripping out the lawn I'm working on so if it digs in while going from the pavement to the lawn no big deal. I'll try it in the morning and finish leveling the yard. 

 

With the lift rock shaft full up I have approx. 1" ground clearance. This seems a bit low, what clearance is typical with the grader blade while fully retracted?

 

I appreciate all taking the time to respond - Thanks!

[AMC RULES 36,954]

 I'll try it in the morning and finish leveling the yard. 

 

 

 

[Hydro 130]

There is not much clearance but I think I had more than an inch.  Regardless just remember this is not dozer.  I found I did better angling the blade as much as I could and working with the tip to start digging.  I'm 250, I had wheel weights and loaded AG tires.  The down pressure would stop me in my tracks.  Go easy and you will get a lot more done.

[P3x 54]

Pictures? - Why sure!   I've decided to start taking pictures of the different implements I do not use often instead of relying on memory when a few years pass and it's time to use them. 

 

Gary gave a concise description of the spring - very clear did not find muddy.  Could not find a similar spring but used a couple in tandem that worked.  

 

 

 

 

 

Also saw an ad this week on CL someone had a 50" Wheel Horse Plow" for sale locally - $100.00.  Inquired immediately and was gone...

[AMC RULES 36,954]

Nope...picts working tomorrow.  

[Hydro 130]

I remember now,  getting old too, I made my solid lift link and as I recall I shortened the link some to gain more ground clearance as the front wheels were a couple of inches in the air, I knew I could not dig in that much so decided to go for the clearance.

 

Not a great pic for your purpose but it's easy to see there is more clearance.  This time the blade was on my 416.  My GD having a driving lesson

Edited September 21, 2013 by Hydro