Big Tiller parts, where to go?

[glgrumpy 35]

Have 50" tiller from a D series line-up. Took it all apart to retrieve some parts inside. Ready to go back together after I find some seals and gaskets for it. I need the two big seals where main shaft sticks out and one up on top for the input shaft. I see an o-ring there, and has a gasket. Not sure where to start. Will I find these at Toro or ???  Will I just be buying seals by size or old ones' numbers if they have them?  Will I just be making the gaskets? 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503]

Tiller model will be one of these

Replaces (7-1241 38" w/o extensions), 7-1260, 7-1261, 67-50TL01, 77-50TL01, 87-50TL01, 97-50TL01, 07-50TL01, 07-50TL02

 

Parts list for 07-50TL02 has some instructions for assembly.

 

100927 case gasket nla

104149 input housing gasket nla

103104 input housing o-ring nla

 

103103 input shaft seal still available from Toro

Seal .875"x1.129"x.125" CR/SKF 8620

 

 

6663 tine shaft seals still avaiable from Toro - 4 required

Seal 1.500"x1.878"x.250"  CR/SKF 14810

 

Garry

 

Adding - the seal dimensions are for the CR/SKF seals. I do not know the dimensions of the originals so you should make sure they are not thinner which would result in the possiblity there won't be room for the CR/SKF seals listed. They may have thinner ones if required.

[JamesBe1 80]

I recently replaced the seals in my D-series tiller.  I think I just got the PN off of the old seals and ordered them from someone on ebay.  It was pretty straightforward.  I think I used a long 2 inch pvc pipe that I just thinned down the end outer diameter by using a grinding wheel so it would fit, to drive the seals in place. 

 

Also, you will want to make sure that the shaft is smooth before you run the seals down it.  Use a file and remove any burrs that might damage the seal.  Not sure if I explained the bit about the pvc tube well enough.  Just ask if it doesn't make sense.

 

I didn't replace the input shaft seals.  Just an oring that was easy enough to replace out of a cheap oring kit.

[glgrumpy 35]

Thanks for Some info at least.  NLA, great! I can make gaskets, just didn't want to.  Wondering why 4 main shaft seals needed???  Are they doubled in case?  Didn't look yet at mine to verify. Am familiar with needing smooth shafts to install, that is good. Have parts list and instructions downloaded from here, look right.

[JamesBe1 80]

I believe that the reason for doubling the seals is due to the environment that the seals are likely to see.  Mostly dirt.

 

The part that had me scratching my head was how to drive them in place.  That is, until I glanced over and saw an old piece of PVC tubing.  Prefectamundo!  Well, almost.  It was just a little too wide to fit in the casing, but shaving off just a little bit with a grinding wheel was all it took.

 

Do you have a better plan for driving in the seals?  This is not something that I think I'll be doing very often, but if there is a better way, I'd love to know.

[glgrumpy 35]

Gwest, got those seals today and they look correct, "phew!"   They are just cheapie plastic things, not metal. Same as I pulled. the little one was about $8 and bigger ones $5 each, not sure why??  Now just gotta see what I can make for a gasket.

[Shynon 7,435]

put the inner seal in the right way and put the outer seal in backwards, that way when the dirt pushes against the seal it will tighten around the shaft and not let the dirt in and ruin the inner seal.

 

                Tom

[JamesBe1 80]

put the inner seal in the right way and put the outer seal in backwards, that way when the dirt pushes against the seal it will tighten around the shaft and not let the dirt in and ruin the inner seal.

 

                Tom

 

Argh!  I wish I had known this when I replaced my seals.

 

Oh well, next time (if ever), I hope I remember this.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503]

Keep a copy of this. That will remind you.

 

Parts list for 07-50TL02 has some instructions for assembly.

 

Garry

[Lagersolut 613]

I believe that the reason for doubling the seals is due to the environment that the seals are likely to see.  Mostly dirt.

 

The part that had me scratching my head was how to drive them in place.  That is, until I glanced over and saw an old piece of PVC tubing.  Prefectamundo!  Well, almost.  It was just a little too wide to fit in the casing, but shaving off just a little bit with a grinding wheel was all it took.

 

Do you have a better plan for driving in the seals?  This is not something that I think I'll be doing very often, but if there is a better way, I'd love to know.

 

 

I've been using black iron nipples w/cap to drive seals ( very gently ) for years - some of the smaller ones you can't  really find a size that works so I use ( very gently ) a very wide punch and go round and round - I actually got the ( nipple )  idea 20 years ago when I was replacing the seals in my Troy Built tiller , it was in the owners manual instructions for replacing them.

 

I have 4  8" sections that stay in the roll away just for that -  get a size I don't have ....trip to Lowe's in the black iron pipe  section to make a new one and it only cost a couple few dollars .

Edited July 14, 2013 by Golds-Red