GT-14 Reassembly Question.....

[tookies 0]

Well we (my son and I) put her back together again this weekend after removing the Uni-drive and replacing both outer bearings on the rear axle. Really was not too bad of a project. Bearings popped back in smoothly and with C- Clamps we were able to put the whole thing (Uni-Drive) back together.

Only question is the parking brake assembly has got us perplexed. Does anyone have a decent diagram of how the parking brake assembly goes back together? After we opened up the Uni-Drive we discovered that the internal mechanism of the brake (the part inside the Uni-drive) was broken from being applied when the tractor was rolling.

I am not really interested in trying to get the parking brake back into working order just trying to get it to where the belt tension pulley does it's job.

Anyone have a picture, a suggestion, or a good diagram to work off of? The material I found on Yahoo groups is not detailed enough to figure this out? Also what type of transmission/Uni drive fluid do you all use on a 72 GT-14. The manual says to use Type "A" Automatic transmission fliuid....Is this type still availeable or does anyone use 10w30 or 40 ?

Help.......Chris, down south in Georgia.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

The free end of the spring hanging above should hook into the hole on the end of the parking brake arm -- if it's like the smaller tractors.

Type "A" is still around, but very hard to find. Dexron III ATF is an acceptable substitute. Since you have not purged the hydro of all ATF, (there's still some in the pump and motor) switching over to engine oil isn't recommended.

[Electro12WH 50]

How do you purge that oil?

[Brrly1 1,146]

Hello I don't want to sound like a know-it-all but what was in the tractor when you disassembled it to replace the bearing is probably what you should use. Also did you clean the entire trans out with like some solvent or cleaner. I did not follow everything you did so if it had trans fluid in it I would suggest going back to trans fluid if it was not totally cleaned. If it was cleaned you have the possibility of switching to motor oil. If there was motor oil in there I would suggest going back to motor oil. I use 10w-30. These are some of the things that I have learned as I have been playing with the tranny's on a GT14. I beleive at some point that Wheel Horse issued a service bulletin telling about the change over from tranny fluid to motor oil and at the moment I don't know what # that would be. Good luck Burly :horseplay: :horseplay:

[Brrly1 1,146]

P.S. I would also lose the NAPA filter and use a Wheel Horse filter. I was caught up doing the same thing and the guys that know a whole buch more than me, let me hear about the mistake that I was making by doing that, for a few dollars more you'll get better protection. Burly :horseplay: :horseplay:

[tookies 0]

Hello I don't want to sound like a know-it-all but what was in the tractor when you disassembled it to replace the bearing is probably what you should use. Also did you clean the entire trans out with like some solvent or cleaner. I did not follow everything you did so if it had trans fluid in it I would suggest going back to trans fluid if it was not totally cleaned. If it was cleaned you have the possibility of switching to motor oil. If there was motor oil in there I would suggest going back to motor oil. I use 10w-30. These are some of the things that I have learned as I have been playing with the tranny's on a GT14. I beleive at some point that Wheel Horse issued a service bulletin telling about the change over from tranny fluid to motor oil and at the moment I don't know what # that would be. Good luck Burly :horseplay: :horseplay:

Burly, I appreciate any advise you give and will stick with the 10w30 that was in it prior to breaking it down. Correct me if I am wrong but the GT-14s trans and hydro is different than say a 520 H in that all the fluid (GT-14) is all the same between the hydo pump and the transaxle. Where as in a 520 the transmission fluid is separate from the transaxle fluid? Do I have this right?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

The Eaton 1100 hydro in a 520 uses the transaxle as an oil sump.

The Eaton 700 models have a separate reservoir for the hydro oil. (used on some 312/516/518's, etc.)

[Brrly1 1,146]

Hello Tookies I as far as I know you are correct, 100%. But like I said you do need to change that filter on the GT. It will make the horse happier and you also in the long run. Good Luck Burly :horseplay: :horseplay: :horseplay:

[tookies 0]

Hello Tookies I as far as I know you are correct, 100%. But like I said you do need to change that filter on the GT. It will make the horse happier and you also in the long run. Good Luck Burly :horseplay: :horseplay: :horseplay:

I hear you on the filter, especially after braking this thing down and spending hours and hours on it.

One question about putting the hubs back on. One side went on really easy.....the other has been really rough. Any suggestions other than tapping the hub back onto the spindle or sanding the spindle/axle a bit?

I am afraid if I keep tapping on the hub, its gonna mess up the gears inside the Uni-Drive.

Also cleat tires in 27x9.5x15? are they still availeable? I cant locate any with cleats?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Remove the key and try sliding the hub on to the axle. If the hub will slide on easier, then you should dress the key with a file. (the set screw will often deform the key and cause interference) Use emery cloth (and a file around the keyway) to clean the end of the axle, and sand the bore of the hub until it is clean.

If you don't have anti-seize compound, at least apply a light coating of grease to both the hub bore and the axle shaft prior to assembly.

Install the key (CLEAN the keyseat in the axle first) and install the hub. Tighten the setscrew to 35 ft. lb. and then the locking (jam) nut.