SCOOBY 312-h 14 #26 Posted February 12, 2013 hahaha terry our cost is around 45 bucks for the housing 114568. we do have the whole thing here too and its 111726 our price 127.95 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOWTIE 226 #27 Posted February 13, 2013 WHEN I FIRST STARTED REBUILDING THESE SPINDLES I DAMAGE A FEW PULLIES. I COULD STRAIGHTEN THEM PRETTY GOOD. IF YOU DON'T GET THEM RIGHT THE TENSION BAR MOVES QUITE A BIT WHEN ENGAGED. IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME THEN MONEY YOU CAN MAKE WORK. I USE A COUPLE OF DEEP WELL SOCKETS AND A VISE A TIGHTEN THEM AND WORK YOUR WAY AROUND THE PULLEY. JUST KEEP CHECKING IT AS YOU GO. BOWTIE IN OHIO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thehorse 221 #28 Posted February 13, 2013 Bowie, From looking at the diagram, not sure where the trouble getting the pulley off comes from. Is it after removing the bolt, the pulley is kind of gaulded on the spindle? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOWTIE 226 #29 Posted February 13, 2013 WHEN YOU SAY REMOVING THE BOLT DO YOU MEAN THE NUT? THE PULLEY SHOULD SPIN ONCE THE NUT IS REMOVED. IF NOT THAT WHEN YOU NEED THE IMPACT,HEAT AND PENETRATING OIL. DO YOU HAVE THE DOUBLED SHAFTS OR KEYED PULLEYS. IF YOU DO MY PROCESS WON'T WORK AT ALL. BOWTIE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #30 Posted February 22, 2013 Agree with Bowtie above completely - the only thing I would add is I use stainless bolts with the blue threadlocker. Seems to help in an environment that is pretty tough on metal even with good cleaning practices. Duff 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites