Spindle housing 78350 42rd

[thehorse 221]

Any ideas as to where to pick up spindle housing. Just picked up a deck but one is shot, another is in bad shape.

Thanks,

Len

[groundhog47 347]

Ok here is what I found, after first post didn't post. Could not find a spindle assy 78350 in Toro Consumer parts. So lets start with your mower ID modle number, from 75 series (not yr) through 95 series, spindle types L, M, Z, and V all have same housing 106063 which is either same, superceded or unavailable. If Toro has is pricey,some on ebay pricey to terible shape with various guts. The three most recent viewed on ebay are two old style and one new (V)metric, all three for one price but one useable, other two inner guts only in my opinion. Will look at Toro and get back, but really need mower model number and just a guess on series as more exist>

[thehorse 221]

Deck model is 78350. There is a partstree number (114568). That's just for the housing, which is All I need. I just cringe having so much$ in the deck. I will keep looking for an alternative. No idea what the housing material is but probably a poor choice! Does this make sense. I'm new to this and sometimes I can't see the nose on my own face.

Len

[groundhog47 347]

Ok here is what I found, after first post didn't post. Could not find a spindle assy 78350 in Toro Consumer parts. So lets start with your mower ID modle number, from 75 series (not yr) through 95 series, spindle types L, M, Z, and V all have same housing 106063 which is either same, superceded or unavailable. If Toro has is pricey,some on ebay pricey to terible shape with various guts. The three most recent viewed on ebay are two old style and one new (V)metric, all three for one price but one useable, other two inner guts only in my opinion. Will look at Toro and get back, but really need mower model number and just a guess on series as more exist>On 5-,65, and some 75 series mowers they use J, S, and K spindle, X will fit. X uses 106063, J uses 8139,4299 NLA, S uses 102776, and K uses 102775. Does this make sense. Any way Toro has 106063 listed at 81.32 just housing. If you are lucy enough to have 102775 I know where they are for 25 or less.

Info obtained: manuals, implements, chart mower spindle, 42" pages and SEPW, Toro Consumer< Parts search

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Correct on the spindle housing being p/n 114568.

Unless you find a used part, buying it new from Toro is your only choice.

Shop around for a better price than PartsTree - or go see "SCOOBY 312-H" (Corey) at the parts counter at Pristow's in Johnstown. :D

[thehorse 221]

Thanks all. I will look for used until the grass greens and use the 36rd until I find something. Is the much work to replacing the housings?

I have never benn confused as a competent mechanic. I usually get it after breaking it once. I learn but my learning curve is usually on the expensive.side.

[groundhog47 347]

Correct on the spindle housing being p/n 114568.

Unless you find a used part, buying it new from Toro is your only choice.

Shop around for a better price than PartsTree - or go see "SCOOBY 312-H" (Corey) at the parts counter at Pristow's in Johnstown.

Terry, I stand corrected, Thanks finally found modle # and part #, was lookin at older spindle chart.

[doc724 924]

I would guess the spindle housings are either aluminum or magnesium. They get corroded like that because owners cut grass when it is really wet and then they do not want to flip the decks over and scrape them down a few tiimes a season. I have had two WH and with reasonable treatment, they will last 15-20 years with no perforations of the deck and no corrosion to speak of on the housings. As Groundhog has said, replacements are pricey and some of the items on ebay is junk. One idea I have tried (no success yet) is to go around to various lawn mower repair shops and ask if they have any WH decks "out back" (all of these guys have junkers in the back). Maybe I will get lucky one of the times.

[Trouty56 565]

Seems they really corrode on the side the clippings and stones hit. The one on the left is usually in good shape. I am taking 3 off of a deck now. The pulleys are already junked but one or two housings may be of value to you. I can take a couple pictures if you like when I get them off.

[thehorse 221]

Keep me in the loop Bob. I would take a look and maybe put them back into service. I think I can get 2 shipped online for around 100. Back to my previous concern.......are they difficult to replace?

Thanks

Len

[BOWTIE 226]

THEY VERY EASY TO DO. ONCE YOU GET THE PULLIES OFF. I ALWAYS USE A CENTER DRIVE IMPACT WITH 9/16" 6 POINT SOCKET ON IT. IF THE PULLIES ARE STUCK USE THE IMPACT ON THEM. IT IS A 1 1/8" DEEP WELL ON THE BOTTOM SIDE. YOU MAY WON'T TO PUT A PICE OF HOSE OVER THE THREADS TO PROTECT THEM. HOLD THE PULLEY WITH A BELT. KEEP SWITCHING THE IMPACT FRONT F/R ROTATION. SOMETIMES PENETRATING OIL AND HEAT HELPS. I HAVE DONE THIS A DOZEN TIMES WITH SUCESS. GOOD LUCK

BOWTIE IN OHIO

[thehorse 221]

Thanks bowtie

[Trouty56 565]

Here is one of them.

[thehorse 221]

Looks way better than what's on mine!

Interested!

Does it by chance have a brother?

[Trouty56 565]

Let me get the other ones off....there is one that is better than this. This was the center one. I'm putting the double D type spindles back on.

[thehorse 221]

Sounds good I will check in tomorrow. Killer thing is...I just traded a 42 with 3 cherry spindle/housings on it. I'm a slow learner sometimes!

[Trouty56 565]

It may take me longer than that...I work 12's till Thursday. Then I can get to work on the deck. We better take this off the forum and just PM each other about any type of deal.

[BOWTIE 226]

AREN'T THE DOUBLE D's AND NEWER (1985-up) ALUMINIUM HOUSING THE SAME PART NUMBER. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE BEARINGS,SHAFTS,SPACERS ETC. INSIDE. I HAVE 3 NEW ASSEMBLIES FOR 85 AND NEWER 42"/48" DECKS

BOWTIE

[Trouty56 565]

Well there are older cast iron housings that had the grease fittings come up through the deck. They were from late 60's. I got a set off a deck that came with a 69 charger and from another deck that came with a 1277. Both decks were trash. I have replaced the bearings and seal on one set. The pulleys are cast iron too.

I do have a set of spindle housings that are double D and aluminum, Came on a 74 D series 48 inch deck. But I am using the cast ones.

Edited February 11, 2013 by Trouty56

[groundhog47 347]

Here is one of them.

Bowtie those "beat to death" ones on ebay are usually eaten up an broken. How did you so cleanly remove the housing bolts (my next project). My son suggested heat, and of course PB or some good penetrant. I've checked fairly thoroughly about interchangebility. The sheets that come with upgrade kits say reuse all orig but what is supplied, and appears the other thing is sealed or unseled bearings being seated at diff depths on top. And the metric swap being smaller at pulley and keyless and a slight difference in overall length requiring a .048 or so shim between blade and shaft face. I may be totally rong but had 3 diff long and two diff short, the housing length is/seems same per sets. Thanks Edited February 11, 2013 by groundhog47

[Trouty56 565]

Here is one of them.

Bowtie those "beat to death" ones on ebay are usually eaten up an broken. How did you so cleanly remove the housing bolts (my next project). My son suggested heat, and of course PB or some good penetrant. I've checked fairly thoroughly about interchangebility. The sheets that come with upgrade kits say reuse all orig but what is supplied, and appears the other thing is sealed or unseled bearings being seated at diff depths on top. And the metric swap being smaller at pulley and keyless and a slight difference in overall length requiring a .048 or so shim between blade and shaft face. I may be totally rong but had 3 diff long and two diff short, the housing length is/seems same per sets. Thanks

If you are asking me...I got lucky so far...all the bolts loosened with out a problem. The pulleys are the tough part. I didn't even try to save them. Bowtie has a good idea about using a belt to hold them and impact wrenching the bottom of the spindle back and forth. I'm going to drill holes around the spindle through the pulley and hope that loosens them.

[groundhog47 347]

Here is one of them.

Bowtie those "beat to death" ones on ebay are usually eaten up an broken. How did you so cleanly remove the housing bolts (my next project). My son suggested heat, and of course PB or some good penetrant. I've checked fairly thoroughly about interchangebility. The sheets that come with upgrade kits say reuse all orig but what is supplied, and appears the other thing is sealed or unseled bearings being seated at diff depths on top. And the metric swap being smaller at pulley and keyless and a slight difference in overall length requiring a .048 or so shim between blade and shaft face. I may be totally rong but had 3 diff long and two diff short, the housing length is/seems same per sets. Thanks

If you are asking me...I got lucky so far...all the bolts loosened with out a problem. The pulleys are the tough part. I didn't even try to save them. Bowtie has a good idea about using a belt to hold them and impact wrenching the bottom of the spindle back and forth. I'm going to drill holes around the spindle through the pulley and hope that loosens them.

Bob was askin' Bowtie and put wrong name but you aswered it and thanks. Got lucky with pulleys, they were so bad it didn't matter if they tore to pieces and pulled them with bearing puller in belt groove. May not be so lucky as to try that on a good sheave. I worry about those bolts as heads are barely there and bottom threaded portion bad rust, may can get grinder to tip end. Thanks

[thehorse 221]

Ok...because I am new I hope I don't ask ask questions I will find out when I start ripping down spindle/housing assembly. But from looking at diagram, I would first use belt to holt pulley and use impact to attempt and remove pulley bolt. From there, I would remove the blade and unbolt the housing. Next, i would pull spindle from the housing after removing the c clip. Probably put in new bearings in, they appear to not appear to need pressed in/on. But do the just go on spindle or up in housing with first and insert spindle into housing then c clip,spacer then cap. From there, bolt up housing and then blade. Also, grease up bearings liberally?

Sorry and thanks,

Len

[Trouty56 565]

Well the pulley bolt will come off with an impact and I held the pulley with my hand. The pulley sometimes is hard to get loose from the spindle shaft. What Bowtie suggests is to hold the pulley with a belt while using an impact on the bottom of the spindle shaft with a 1 1/8 inch socket. To aid in the removal the use of heat and or penetrating oil will help. Not sure how to secure the belt....maybe clamping it somehow. I had some pulleys come right off and then I have this set....tighter than the gates of you know what.

[BOWTIE 226]

HOLDING THE BELT SOMETIMES IT TAKES TWO PEOPLE. I ALWAYS TAKE THE NUTS OFF THE PULLEYS FIRST AND STOP. THEN GO UNDERNEATH THE DECK AND HIT THE BLADE NUTS WITH THE IMPACT WRENCH FOWARD AND REVERSE. THAT WAY THE OTHER PULLEYS HELP HOLD THE BELT TIGHT.

THE FOUR 9/16" HEADED BOLT I HIT WITH IMPACT HARD AND FAST. I HAVE ONLY PULLED THE THREADS ON TWO HOLES OUT OF THE 50-75 I HAVE DONE. IF YOU PULL THE THREADS A NUT AND LONGER BOLT WILL REPAIR NICELY. WHEN INSTALLING I USE NICE CLEAN BOLTS WITH THE BLUE THREAD LOCKER. IT KEEPS THE MOISTURE OUT AND WILL STOP CORROSION. THAT IS WHAT WHEEL HORSE DID.

GOOD LUCK BOWTIE