Volt meter problem

[Wheelhorse84 87]

So on my c-160 my volt meter has a green and I believe an orange wire. It has no power unless I wiggle the green wire the meters prongs seem to move left and right. Does the power to crank over the tractor run through that?it won't stay running almost like it loses its connection. If I replace the volt meter that should solve it I would think ?

[groundhog47 347]

If you can trace the wire beginning to end for caution and assure that they don't cause short (logically shouldn't) hook bothwires together independant or unconnected from vm and see if prob continues. If does is not voltmeter I would figuer! Thanks

Edited February 9, 2013 by groundhog47

[Wheelhorse84 87]

I can connect those 2 wires to each other?

[groundhog47 347]

I can connect those 2 wires to each other?

No, goodness, I was thinking Amp meter. The vm should be from ground to meter, through winding and back out to voltage source. Let me go look at manuals and see where amp and volt meters route.

[groundhog47 347]

I can connect those 2 wires to each other?

No, goodness, I was thinking Amp meter. The vm should be from ground to meter, through winding and back out to voltage source. Let me go look at manuals and see where amp and volt meters route. All could locate in manuals was 79-80 wiring and didn't show a volt meter in circuit. It did show a lt green wire from switch on to Amp meter to red going to start relay, if am lookin' right that wouldn't be correct as would only read out during start. Let me revisit that.

[groundhog47 347]

Ok, I know the electrical guru's (no disrespect) are goin to chew and spit me out. The lt green appears to be battery supply fed (not start) from ignition to amp meter through to red to starter solenoid to battery. If an open occurs no battery gets to ignition circuit throgh ignition switch to energize coil. So if it remains running after started any interuption in that circuit would fail the coil charging. If it is indeed a volt meter I'm lost, if amp meter and two separate terminals exist rather than loop a fuse is in the circuit (Should be). Can you trace that out and we'll go from there.

[Wheelhorse84 87]

I'm sorry it is the amp meter

Can I connect the two wires from the amp meter?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I'm sorry it is the amp meter

Can I connect the two wires from the amp meter?

Yes - you can bypass the ammeter. (connect the wires)

[Wheelhorse84 87]

Thank guys.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Quite a difference in the wiring of the ammeter vs. the volt meter.

Gerry was "right on the money". :handgestures-thumbup:

[groundhog47 347]

So on my c-160 my volt meter has a green and I believe an orange wire. It has no power unless I wiggle the green wire the meters prongs seem to move left and right. Does the power to crank over the tractor run through that?it won't stay running almost like it loses its connection. If I replace the volt meter that should solve it I would think ?

OK, now lets go this way, does it start/fire up/ run with key only in start and die when released or does it just die when started and giggling ammeter wire. If only continues run in start position (held) I would think ign, if giggling the wire makes it cut in and out while in run position, put those two together. If giggling the ammeter wires connected red to light green securely and sympton continues , look at (if fused) fuse connections and solenoid connection, and all the way to battery. Don't give up!

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

All ignition switch power passes through the ammeter. More than once I have seen an electrically dead tractor with nothing more than a disconnected wire on the ammeter.

Maybe not the best explanation, but current travels in both directions through those two wires and the ammeter - which is what controls the needle position on the ammeter.

When cranking the engine, current passing through the ammeter from the battery to the ignition switch (and on to the starter solenoid and ignition coil) pulls the gauge needle into the "discharge" or negative side.

Once the engine is running, the alternator current is coming from the rectifier/regulator to the "R" terminal of the ignition switch. An internal contact in the switch connects the "R" terminal and the "B" terminal. Current passes from the "B" terminal back through the ammeter to the battery, causing the needle to move to the "charge" or positive side.

As the battery voltage level nears the cut-off setting of the voltage regulator, the needle will slowly return to a more-centered position. (zero)

[Wheelhorse84 87]

It dies completely until I mess with the wire.

[groundhog47 347]

It dies completely until I mess with the wire.

All right put em together now. Terry's post is thorough enough if that doesn't work you can start eliminating anything through the path. I' ve got a new ammeter and they do feel light which doesn't mean flimsy, but vibration on new or old could have intermittantly "broke" something under that case. The original meter on mine looks more durable but we know how that goes. You got it now and had it in the beginning anyway, good job, C..... Edited February 10, 2013 by groundhog47

[Iggy68 28]

TT- if there isn't any movement on the amp meter needle at any time does that mean it is bad? Here is why I ask. I have a broken tab on my regulator that I soldered back on until I get a replacement this week. My amp meter needle never moves. If I test the voltage to the amp meter and get a reading that would indicate a bad meter correct?

[Wheelhorse84 87]

My meter bounced all around but still charged. Where can I buy another besides getting overcharged by my local dealer?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

TT- if there isn't any movement on the amp meter needle at any time does that mean it is bad? Here is why I ask. I have a broken tab on my regulator that I soldered back on until I get a replacement this week. My amp meter needle never moves. If I test the voltage to the amp meter and get a reading that would indicate a bad meter correct?

Not sure what tractor you have, but there should be power at both terminals / posts on the ammeter. If the needle never moves but the electrical system still functions properly, I would say that the gauge is "stuck".

My meter bounced all around but still charged. Where can I buy another besides getting overcharged by my local dealer?

Here's one, but keep in mind that you get what you pay for: eBay link

If it were me, I would ditch the ammeter for a voltmeter - unless you insist on keeping the tractor original.

A vibrating/bouncing needle on an ammeter doesn't tell you much.

[Wheelhorse84 87]

What kind of volt meter do you put in? Is it as simple as connecting the two existing wires?

[rmaynard 14,952]

Usually, any DC volt meter with a range of about 0 - 16 volts will work as long as it fits. If you are replacing your ammeter with a volt meter, connect both of the wires that are going to the ammeter now (usually red and green) together, and insulate well EDIT: crimp or solder a connector onto the end, and attach that to the (+) side of the volt meter. Take another piece of wire and connect the (-) side of the meter to ground. Connect the (+) side of the volt meter to the accessory side of the ignition switch. Drawing shows wire connect to the fuse for further circuit protection.

Here is what your MODIFIED wiring diagram should look like.

Edited February 12, 2013 by rmaynard

[Wheelhorse84 87]

Thank you

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

If you are replacing your ammeter with a volt meter, connect both of the wires that are going to the ammeter now (usually red and green) together, crimp or solder a connector onto the end, and attach that to the (+) side of the volt meter. Take another piece of wire and connect the (-) side of the meter to ground.

Wiring the voltmeter like that (always "hot") will drain the battery if the tractor sits over long periods of time.

Permanently connect the leads that originally attached to the ammeter and insulate them well.

Connect the positive side of the voltmeter to the accessory ("A") terminal on the ignition switch and connect the negative side to a clean chassis ground.

The voltmeter will only be energized when the key is in the on position and there won't be a parasitic drain when the key is off.

You are basically copying the optional hourmeter circuit on the schematic. The only thing I would add is a dedicated (inline) 5 amp fuse for the voltmeter.

[rmaynard 14,952]

Once again the fingers were in motion before the brain had it's coffee.

Terry is absolutely correct. I have another wiring diagram in my files that I will post as soon as I get to it. Meanwhile, I will edit my post so that further confusion will be eliminated.