Slipping Throttle Lever on 312-8

[Indy443 30]

Hi Folks,

I am brand new to Wheel Horses and after hunting around for some time, found a nice condition 1992 312-8 with three attachments (snow blower, mow deck and trailer). After getting it home I took it up and down the driveway a few times and noticed that the throttle will not stay in the full power position. As soon as I let go of it it slowly slides down to about mid throttle or lower. I haven't poked around too much but is there a simple explanation and fix for this?

Thanks, and I will enjoy learning from everyone on here.

[Raider12 13]

I removed mine and laid it on the vice and tighten up the ribit by using a hammer. I struck it a few tiems trying it each time to get the right amount of tension.

[varosd 1,185]

:text-welcomeconfetti:

very common to have the throttle slid down. Do not oil it ever! some folks will just take a pair of vise grips and pinch the rivet (inside the dash) where the cable gets rolled up creating tension/friction. some resort to drilling out the rivit and putting a bolt with washers/nut

[Indy443 30]

Thank you for the advice. I will try that method.

I noticed something else in the my 'test' lap of the tractor down and up my driveway: It seems very, very sluggish when I let out the clutch. As in, it barley moves in 1st when I take my foot off the clutch (in high gear) and when I shift through the gears, the same thing. If I am at a stop, shift into 3rd and release the clutch it sluggishly begins to move and then never really gets booting along. I know that it is not designed this way as I don't think it would barley climb a hill....

As I said earlier I am brand new to these tractors and do not know how to trouble shoot them yet, so I appreciate any help you can offer me! I plan on learning much from the knowledgeable folks on this forum.

very common to have the throttle slid down. Do not oil it ever! some folks will just take a pair of vise grips and pinch the rivet (inside the dash) where the cable gets rolled up creating tension/friction. some resort to drilling out the rivit and putting a bolt with washers/nut

[Tim 97]

put in a stronger clutch spring

[Anglo Traction 759]

:WRS: Clutch problem could also be Belt condition and/or need for adjustment.. Maybe check these out first as they will only cost you time. A Copy of the Operators Manual will show you how.

Regards

[jay in nc 209]

the hydrolic clutch release is your problem. it can be removed & a release spring substuted. the hole for the spring is in the axle housing.

[Indy443 30]

the hydrolic clutch release is your problem. it can be removed & a release spring substuted. the hole for the spring is in the axle housing.

Do you (or anyone) maybe have a photo or photos of this process? I am so much better when working off of a visual. Thank you for the help and I hope to get it fixed up soon so I can use this tractor for its intended purposes.

[Foozerush 40]

Hi Indy.... Welcome to RS!! I have a 416-8, and both issues you have, I fixed thanks to this site!! First the throttle-- take vice grips and squeeze the rivit a tad and that should solve that problem, it did on mine.... Second the clutch gas shock thing is bad, just get spring number 108035. I didnt take off the shock, just left it, works fine with spring. First pic is the shock below the belt. Second pic is the spring location. THE SPRING IN THE PIC IS NOT THE RIGHT ONE!! That one came on my tractor and had zero help. Part number 108035.

Sorry for the dirt, Those was taken when i first got her, before i gave her a good power washing....

Hope this helps..... Gregg :cool:

[tunahead72 2,341]

Do not oil it ever! some folks will just take a pair of vise grips and pinch the rivet (inside the dash) where the cable gets rolled up creating tension/friction.

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Don here, and say that you should lube the throttle control and cable (both ends), even if it's just to spray it with a little WD-40 once or twice a year.

I have had very good results with his method of squeezing the pivot point/rivet with vise grips, on both of my tractors. Try it once, see if the throttle stays where it should, and if not, tighten the vise grips and try it again, shouldn't take much more than that.

On your other problem, try a search here on "108035" (the part number for the clutch release spring), I think you'll find some other photos.

Do you have manuals for your tractor and engine? They're available.

And welcome to one of the most helpful and fun forums on planet Earth! :WRS:

[Indy443 30]

Do not oil it ever! some folks will just take a pair of vise grips and pinch the rivet (inside the dash) where the cable gets rolled up creating tension/friction.

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Don here, and say that you should lube the throttle control and cable (both ends), even if it's just to spray it with a little WD-40 once or twice a year.

I have had very good results with his method of squeezing the pivot point/rivet with vise grips, on both of my tractors. Try it once, see if the throttle stays where it should, and if not, tighten the vise grips and try it again, shouldn't take much more than that.

On your other problem, try a search here on "108035" (the part number for the clutch release spring), I think you'll find some other photos.

Do you have manuals for your tractor and engine? They're available.

And welcome to one of the most helpful and fun forums on planet Earth!

Do not oil it ever! some folks will just take a pair of vise grips and pinch the rivet (inside the dash) where the cable gets rolled up creating tension/friction.

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Don here, and say that you should lube the throttle control and cable (both ends), even if it's just to spray it with a little WD-40 once or twice a year.

I have had very good results with his method of squeezing the pivot point/rivet with vise grips, on both of my tractors. Try it once, see if the throttle stays where it should, and if not, tighten the vise grips and try it again, shouldn't take much more than that.

On your other problem, try a search here on "108035" (the part number for the clutch release spring), I think you'll find some other photos.

Do you have manuals for your tractor and engine? They're available.

And welcome to one of the most helpful and fun forums on planet Earth!

Thank you both!!

I was thinking last night: Would the cold have anything to do with the sluggish response of letting out the clutch? I wouldn't think so, but I had just driven about 150 miles through cold air with the Horse on the trailer. I backed it off as soon as I pulled into the yard and took it for the lap down and up the driveway. The response of letting out the clutch was so sluggish. The cold wouldn't have anything to do with it would it? I have to think it does not as I have seen so many Horses working the snow.

One setback is that I do not have a garage space to work on the tractor....and it's been COLD here in Vermont. Like -20F cold. So working on the clutch issue could be challenging. I appreciate seeing the photos and if anyone has other detailed images of the clutch shock and spring, and the fix they performed I would be grateful.

I am learning this a wonderful place to learn about these great tractors!!

[Foozerush 40]

Cold might of had an effect.... Get the clutch spring.... Take you 2 min to install.... plenty of room behind tire to hook one end on ear on top of axle housing, hook other end on clutch peddle linkage.... I was quoted almost $90 for the gas shock from my loco Toro dealer..... I think the spring was less than $20 with shipping..... I didnt want to take my tractor apart at that time to remove the gas shock, left it on there, the spring now does the job of the gas shock.... Also like Anglo Traction suggested to check condition of drive belt... that might be a factor also..... Good Luck..... Gregg :handgestures-thumbupright:

[leeave96 487]

Cold might of had an effect.... Get the clutch spring.... Take you 2 min to install.... plenty of room behind tire to hook one end on ear on top of axle housing, hook other end on clutch peddle linkage.... I was quoted almost $90 for the gas shock from my loco Toro dealer..... I think the spring was less than $20 with shipping..... I didnt want to take my tractor apart at that time to remove the gas shock, left it on there, the spring now does the job of the gas shock.... Also like Anglo Traction suggested to check condition of drive belt... that might be a factor also..... Good Luck..... Gregg

The clutch spring is a great improvement. It's not really a mod, but a return to a better design. I did it on my 314-8 and haven't looked back.

Good luck,

Bill

[Anglo Traction 759]

I only have a similar image of the Clutch Spring layout on an Earlier Model, but is the same principle. Can't help with the Gas Damper Strut, Hope it helps some.....click on image to increase detail-

Edited January 28, 2013 by Anglo Traction

[varosd 1,185]

I never lubed the choke/throttle cables. I remember (or not) a previous thread of someone stating that after doing that, there was no friction after. :confusion-shrug:

[Forest Road 594]

Welcome to RS!

On your clutch issue - although the gas stru may be shot I agree with eliminating it and going with the spring. Do yourself a favor and replace the drive belt while you have the tractor apart. Many times the belt is 5 -10 years old and gradually starts to slip. Some people would swear the trans is going. When intact it's an old belt. That tractor will last another 20 years. Enjoy it!

[leeave96 487]

If you are in a colder climate, i.e. freezing, WD-40 on/in the cables keeps things moving when trying to start a cold tractor.

[Indy443 30]

Welcome to RS!

On your clutch issue - although the gas stru may be shot I agree with eliminating it and going with the spring. Do yourself a favor and replace the drive belt while you have the tractor apart. Many times the belt is 5 -10 years old and gradually starts to slip. Some people would swear the trans is going. When intact it's an old belt. That tractor will last another 20 years. Enjoy it!

Thank you very much for responses. I am thrilled with how active this forum is.

As I have never opened up Horse (or worked one at all before) would anyone be willing to lay out a series of steps I should take to swap out/replace the stronger clutch spring? From the pictures up above I can kind of see what goes where, but I'd hate to start unbolting parts in the wrong place. Also, where and how can I order the stronger spring?

Thank you-

[Indy443 30]

I just did a search for the spring on PartsTree.com (part number "108035") and see they list a consumer spring clutch, and a commercial spring clutch, each priced the same a $6.54. Is there a difference between the two?

And I also want to be sure that I am not creating a fix for a problem that does not exist. When I returned from work this afternoon about 3 inches of nice light snow had fallen, just enough to take out the 312-8 and use the single stage blower (which came as a brand new attachment with the tractor!). I stated out blowing in high range and first gear. Same as yesterday when I let out the clutch, it just seems very slow to get up and go. No instant power to the rear wheels (like it might kind of sit you up straight in the seat, or at least make you grip the wheel a little tighter). It kind of hesitates, then slowly gets moving. Is this still what we think could be a worn clutch gas shock, clutch spring or worn drive belt?

And forgive my not knowing, but what exactly is the drive belts function? (My education of these tractors is still ongoing!)

Thank you for any help and advice you can give me!

[Tim 97]

try this, let the clutch out, when nothing happens put your heel on top of the pedal and pull the pedal towards you. if it takes off, the spring and or the piston is bad

if it doesn't, change the belt. I did this and ended up replacing the spring. i was going to remove the piston too, but if remember right one of the bolts was a pain in the A** to get at

did not matter, worked fine with new spring.

[Indy443 30]

try this, let the clutch out, when nothing happens put your heel on top of the pedal and pull the pedal towards you. if it takes off, the spring and or the piston is bad

if it doesn't, change the belt. I did this and ended up replacing the spring. i was going to remove the piston too, but if remember right one of the bolts was a pain in the A** to get at

did not matter, worked fine with new spring.

I will try that tomorrow. Thank you for the tip. How much of a process is it to get at/replace the new heavier gauge spring?

[Duff 206]

Indy443, where in Vermont are you? We've a got a few members both on your side of the river and here in New Hampshire!

Duff :thumbs:

[Tim 97]

like someone said above about only takes a couple of minutes

take the tire off, will save you alot of aggravation

[Indy443 30]

Hi Duff

I'm up in the hills in Stowe. I would be thrilled to have the chance to talk with someone about my new WH. I can tell you this, I had my eye on getting a tractor at the end of the fall, then spent a good chunk of this winter falling in love with Wheel Horses. Our local Toro shop had a few older Horses in their used dept. and after talking with the guys about them, sitting on them and really letting my mind drift with all they are capable of (plus how darn cool they look), I new I had to find one. I found what I was looking for in a 312-8 from way down in Mass and on Sunday spent the day driving to pick it up. I am new to them mechanically (and am not crazy handy with the wrench, though I am eager to learn to do everything to keep this tractor and pass it on to my son one day. The wife is 4 months pregnant with our first!!). I plan on having lots of chores involving the tractor to keep me sane....

Thanks for saying Hi-

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Hello from a 1991 312-8 North Carolina Wheel Horse owner. Plan on keeping your 312 for as long as you live. Overall this Wheel Horse you have is probably the best model Wheel Horse ever made. They are great on fuel, and have enough power to do anything you want it to do. Seriously if I could have only one Wheel Horse, it would be the Toro Wheel Horse Classic 312-8.

Just my 2cents from my experience.