Sodaking27 1,018 #1 Posted January 1, 2013 My Charger 12 has started leaking at the gas shutoff valve. Is that part still available for replacement? What do you guys do to correct the issue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #2 Posted January 1, 2013 (edited) you can still get the shut off valves, i usually put a napa one in the steel tanks. does the charger have a steel or plastic tank? either way they are available from different sources....im sure toro still has one as well but ive never looked.... for the steel tanks, 1/8 pipe thread and 1/4 gas line..... http://www.napaonlin...2351_0215383242 also make sure that the tank itself isnt leaking from that area, sometimes the leak is in the tank itself and because of gravity the gas drips from the valve making it look like its the culprit. could also be leaking from the threads. good to replace old shut offs as the screens are usually damaged, plugged up some or just missing altogether..... Edited January 1, 2013 by Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sodaking27 1,018 #3 Posted January 1, 2013 Martin, It has the plastic tank. Short piece of hose from tank to valve. The valve is bolted to the left side dash riser. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,579 #4 Posted January 1, 2013 usually there is a small o ring that is the cause of them leaking that you can get at a hardware store. Otherwise like martin said you can get a complete valve from napa. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #5 Posted January 1, 2013 if its the plastic tank, again parts are available. you need to replace the bung and the shutoff valve. the last one i got for a plastic tank was from toro, valve and rubber bung was $5- $10 . i will find some part numbers for you.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #6 Posted January 1, 2013 A few sites list the original WH P/N 8023 valve as being available - but they aren't cheap. The chances of actually getting one is probably slim to none though. I'm not much of a stickler for originality, so I normally replace leaky hoodstand-mounted valves with a B&S #698183 inline shut-off. You could also substitute a different style of panel-mount valve if you wish to keep the easy access. Something like this: LINK Another option would be packing replacement. Obviously whatever you use must be compatible with gasoline. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #7 Posted January 1, 2013 i dont have much experience with the chargers, so help me out here. is the plastic tank outlet the same as the later c series ones? a hole that a bung fits into? if so, could you convert from the 'remote' mounted shutoff to the c series style with a new bung and shutoff and just run the hose from there? i was thinking that there was the steel type tank in the mid to late sixties and then they changed to the plastic type tank used in the 70s on the early c series (c models ending with 0) but was there a different plastic tank for the chargers ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #8 Posted January 1, 2013 1968 was the last steel tank / short tank tray on the Chargers. In 1969, the tank was changed to (red) plastic. They had a 1/4" nipple cast on the bottom of the tank and the fuel shut-off was mounted on the left side of the hoodstand. Depending on the year, some were held in by a bolt / strap and others had the bail / spring combo. Some newer plastic tanks have the grommet with the push-in tank-mounted strainer / shut-off valve. I'm thinking that started with the 1976 models and those tanks were black. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glgrumpy 35 #9 Posted January 1, 2013 Sometimes a slight tightening of the nut around the shaft will squeeze the packing tighter and stop small leak. Be careful, hold main body of valve with one wrench if you can and use only light tightening on outer jamb nut. I've seen these valves at show displays often so some are still out there. Might try STENS. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #10 Posted January 1, 2013 thanks for the info there, tt. i guess you could convert the red tank to the black 'bung hole' setup by drilling the correct size hole if ever the nipple screwed up enough that it didnt seal correctly anymore. learn something new on this forum everyday. this is one thing i like about buying models of the red ones that ive never had before, learning new stuff...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #11 Posted January 1, 2013 I've seen these valves at show displays often so some are still out there. Tank mounted valves are readily available, but the panel mount valves are scarce. They were undoubtedly sourced from Kohler and I can find them in the parts drawing - but haven't come up with a part number (yet): Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sodaking27 1,018 #12 Posted January 2, 2013 Thanks for all the help gang. You guys are the best. Terry I think I'm going to order one of the valves from the web site you provided. Once again thanks for everyone's advice. Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #13 Posted January 2, 2013 I have repaired a few of the dash mounted valves by taking them apart, cleaning them good and using a O ring to seal them (it may have been 2 O rings back to back it's been a while), be sure the O ring is for use with fuel. Martin I think the hole in the tank tray will need to be made bigger for the black tank to fit correctly, because the grommet and valve are bigger. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #14 Posted January 6, 2013 I bought a new valve on ebay. It only had a nipple on one side, but I removed the cap/stem assembly and screwed it onto the old valve and voila. Probably only needed an o-ring but I am pretty sure the "knob" is staked on so removing and replacing it, would be a pain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites