GT-14 Transaxle/ Uni-Drive Problems

[tookies 0]

Hello. I am new to the forum but caught the bug last summer when I stumbled across a 520 HC up in NC. Haven't had many problems out of it and afterwards wouldn't own anything but a WH.

While looking in the local paper earlier in June I came across a GT-14 in the next town over. Long story short I picked it up, complete with mowing deck, tiller, and a scraper blade. Neat set up as it does have the CAT "0" hitch and functioning hydraulic lift. Hydro appears to work fine, engine is the original Kohler 14 HP and overall it runs pretty good for a 36 year old tractor........ except for one BIG problem.

Transmission fluid leaks out the left rear axle seal of the transaxle. I mean BAD. When driving around it pours out. The right side is good. The guy I bought it from had it under a tarp in a barn for years. Upon taking the tire off I can shake the hub a 1/4 of an inch all the way around. I suspect the outer bearings are shot. I can deal with rebuilding it but after checking with TORO found out that just about the only parts I can get for it are the axle seals, center gasket, and pump gasket.

To me this is a mortal wound to this tractor. So my son and I pulled the rear axle and plan on rebuilding it. Really wont know how bad it is till we get inside later this week. However if parts are absolutely out of the question (are they?) I am in trouble other than swapping out the axle all together if I can locate one.

Can anyone tell me 1) does anyone other than TORO have any of these parts (particularly the needle bearings (1 1/8 I.D. and 1" I.D.) and 2) is a rebuild on a 72 transaxle possible? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris in Georgia.

B)

[Brrly1 1,146]

Hey Chris I have a partner up here in Ohio who has went all the way thru one of these rearends and has rebuilt everything there is to rebuild. It might be a very good possibility that my ol' buddy Refracman will chime in here and possibly give you some of the secrets he has to rebuilding this rearend. Now I am not promising anything but it has a very good chance because I know for a fact he will be at home doing paperwork tomorrow and He Hates Paperwork but like he says its part of the job. I wish you luck and I hope he gives out some of the secrets because I will need some stuff too. Good luck Burly

B)

[sorekiwi 761]

I've never been inside an auto, but the bearing you gave dimensions is probably the same type of thing as found in the manual trans. Its probably a Torrington, there should be a number stamped into one end. The size you quoted sounds a bit funny, are you sure its not 1.250 OD x 1.000 ID?

I buy them from Motion Industries: https://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp

There's also someone who sells them thru Amazon at pretty good prices, but cant remember his name.

Hope this helps

[Old Dave 0]

Chris you should be able to get them at a bearing distributor. If you can get one out without destroying it you should be able to see the Torrington P/N stamped on the end. We have a large bearing distributor here called Industrial Bearing and Transmission that stocks a lot of Torrington bearings. I took my manual home last week or I would be able to give you the Torrington bearing #. I will look it up and let you know and also the National Seal # for the axle seals. NAPA sells the seals.

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Welcome to the Forum!

I have had no trouble getting my bearings for my transaxle from Toro.. A bit salty....but they are there.

Also try Partstree.com

Good Luck.

[tookies 0]

Thanks for the suggestions and advice. I am going to dive in tomorrow night and see what we find out. I'll keep you all updated. Thanks again, Chris

[sorekiwi 761]

How do you get away with bringing a transmission into your lounge for the pictures?

[refracman 166]

Chris first off

All the bearings execpt one is available from a torrington dealer at a LOT lower cost the WH. I'll get you the part #s and which one you'll have to get from the dealer. They can also supply you with the seals.

The axle in your pick is the longer of the 2 and are special to to the Gt14.

If where the bearing and seal rides is bad you'll have to get it welded and machined back to specs.

First off DO NOT use try to beat the hub off. you'll shear the end of the axle ( dont ask )Either use a good 3 jaw puller or have a 1 inch plate made to bolt to the hub, and tap a center hole for the puller bolt.

O ya and some PB blaster too, over a couple of days before you go at the hub.

I think somebody here has them.

Like ol' Burrly said ive done a couple of these and their fairly simple.

Heck i can do'em can't be that hard.

If you get in a bind you can pm me and I'll help ya all i can

good luck

[glenn27 64]

Ah-Ha!! Another Gt-14 owner... Welcome to the madness!

(Did I say that right?)

PM off to you,Steve....

[tookies 0]

Chris first off

All the bearings execpt one is available from a torrington dealer at a LOT lower cost the WH. I'll get you the part #s and which one you'll have to get from the dealer. They can also supply you with the seals.

The axle in your pick is the longer of the 2 and are special to to the Gt14.

If where the bearing and seal rides is bad you'll have to get it welded and machined back to specs.

First off DO NOT use try to beat the hub off. you'll shear the end of the axle ( dont ask )Either use a good 3 jaw puller or have a 1 inch plate made to bolt to the hub, and tap a center hole for the puller bolt.

O ya and some PB blaster too, over a couple of days before you go at the hub.

I think somebody here has them.

Like ol' Burrly said ive done a couple of these and their fairly simple.

Heck i can do'em can't be that hard.

If you get in a bind you can pm me and I'll help ya all i can

good luck

Well getting the hub off is my first problem. Correct me if I am wrong but I'll have to pull the axle through from the inside once I open the whole transaxle in half.

Anybody have a lead on where I can find a GT-14 Transmission repair manual? I have been looking at other model numbers of tractors on the TORO site and though they look similar would feel a whole better having a GT-14 manual to look at as we dive deeper into this rebuild. Also the hydro is connected to the right side. Is it necessary to remove this from the main frame once the unit is split in half?

As far as the hub goes you mention some body may have a either 1" plate or 3 jaw puller......any body have a 1" plate set up to pull a hub? I'll pay shipping to and from (It would be cheaper than buying tap and dies to make this hub puller) if I could borrow it ....or would the 3 jaw puller work? Seems to me the 1" plate would work best.....

By the way I received the gasket, seals, and pump gasket from TORO today so at least I know that I can bolt it back together again without leaks or perma gasket after we are done.

[refracman 166]

Chris

If you join the yahoo manuals group 2, a parts manual is there.

Tractor 1970 GT14 1-7541 ipl is the file you'll want.

First remove the pump from the trans. there is 5 bolts that secure it to the trans case. Be careful not to damage the metal filter thats behind the unit as they are no longer available.

As for the plate I do not have one, I use a spare hub, remove the jaws and place the body of the puller between the 2 hubs. Then bolt the hubs together and run the puller bolt out the axle hole. Hillbilly i admit but it works for me

I usually use a impact on the puller, as I find this causes less stress on the trans and use a pry bar to hold the hub from spinning.

Also its is good you bought the correct gaskets. If the gaskets are not used you can bind the trans up. They serve a dual purpose.

1) seal the trans caseing

2) give the internal shafts/ bearings the clearance the need inside the caseing.

I should be able to get them bearin #s tomorrow.

[tookies 0]

Chris

If you join the yahoo manuals group 2, a parts manual is there.

Tractor 1970 GT14 1-7541 ipl is the file you'll want.

First remove the pump from the trans. there is 5 bolts that secure it to the trans case. Be careful not to damage the metal filter thats behind the unit as they are no longer available.

As for the plate I do not have one, I use a spare hub, remove the jaws and place the body of the puller between the 2 hubs. Then bolt the hubs together and run the puller bolt out the axle hole. Hillbilly i admit but it works for me

I usually use a impact on the puller, as I find this causes less stress on the trans and use a pry bar to hold the hub from spinning.

Also its is good you bought the correct gaskets. If the gaskets are not used you can bind the trans up. They serve a dual purpose.

1) seal the trans caseing

2) give the internal shafts/ bearings the clearance the need inside the caseing.

I should be able to get them bearin #s tomorrow.

Well, my son and I opened up the rear axle this afternoon. And its not as bad as I thought. The left outer bearing is shot. Pieces of the bearing were just starting to make there way toward the center of the transmission. The spindle/axle isnt to marked up and appears salvageable.

The rest of the parts appear to be in good shape. I pulled the seal off and can make out the bearings part # from Torrington as B-1816. It looks like it was pressed into place and will probably need to be pressed out. Can anybody advise?

If you look closely you can see were the bearing race actually broke down. I dont have much to go on to knock the old race out. Any suggestions? What is the best way to get a damaged race out ? Can a good machine shop handle this?

Also how does one join the Yahoo manuals discussion groups?

Thanks, Chris

[tookies 0]

BUMP.....

[tookies 0]

Mr. Moderator.......Can you move this over to the Technical FAQ section please....

thnx

[refracman 166]

Chris, check your meesages I sent ya one couple days ago

As for joinin the yahoo groups sorta the same as joinin here, sign up and wait to get approved.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetr...yguid=193273468

To get the old race out, use a long punch or screw driver.it should come out fairly easy. To install the new one, oil the housing and outside of the bearing. I use a socket the same size as the bearing and tap them in, they go in fairly easy also.

[Brrly1 1,146]

Steve, You've got all the answers. Good to have you on my side or at least I think so. B)