Painted the 8-8spd horse today

[dieselhorse 0]

Now shes lookin good! Got the Horse all repainted today, still not cured so the seat is just sitting there for the pic, its baking in the sun right now, then into the garage for the night, wont get run for a few days till the paint cures. The shine came out good, time will tell if it will last. Once it cures and before the fall plow days, I will give the hood and fenders a good wax job. I need to find some anti skid sticker material to coat the foot rests. Paint came from the local Rural King. I have a pair of front wheel weights for a Power King tractor, I got them painted but I am missing two of the nuts to bolt them on the rear rims, so they are not on there yet. I used alum flame proof exhaust header paint on the muffler/exhaust pipe, should take the heat according to the label. Enjoy. Mike

[kj4kicks 151]

Looking good! Is that a rattle-can job?

If you're looking for running board mats, these will fit it:

http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/whee...new-p-1265.html

(shameless plug)

[bustedglass 1]

Good looking job. Good looking tractor . should wax up real nice.

P.S. - Eldon, you should have been a used car salesman .

[dieselhorse 0]

Total spray bomb job. I dont have the means to paint any other way. My spray bomb jobs come out nice. Nice enough for the cover of L&G collector magazine. That Cub Cadet Original was mine a couple issues ago. Mike

[dieselhorse 0]

I know I can get anti skid self adhesive material, just forgot about it while at Rural King. I want to wrap it over the edge as that always gets worn down to bare metal by my boots. Mike

[MaineDad 85]

Looks great. How many cans did it take?

[dieselhorse 0]

3.1 cans so far, I should have enough in the 4th can to finish the mower deck this fall or sooner if I get ambitious and pull the deck off one day.

[bo dawg 478]

Looking good

Whats your secret to using can spray? to look so good.

bo dawg B)

[prpldude 0]

That is a sweet looking paint job, especially for can. B)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Gee..... I guess you "new guys" have never seen this rattle can paint job:

(used under permission of kj4kicks )

[dieselhorse 0]

I like the fire extinguisher TT, I should look into that for mine, my wife and I both go to plowing events and are a long ways from water should someone have a major malfunction. The secret is correct distance from the object and practice.

[kj4kicks 151]

Gee..... I guess you "new guys" have never seen this rattle can paint job:

(used under permission of kj4kicks )

Hmmmm. I get to see it almost every day.... B)

[rustyoldjunk 127]

diesel,that horse looks great.so TT,diesel whats the trick(s) to making a spray can good look very good?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Here's my suggestions:

-Never spray on a very hot day or in direct sunlight.

-Never spray in humid conditions.

-I use Krylon aerosol enamel paint (cherry red) over Krylon primer. (gray)

-Practice diligently before spraying the actual tractor.

-Apply the first tack coat "dry" over scuffed or wet-sanded primer.

-Progressive coats should be heavier and "wetter" - almost to the point of running off.

-Final coat should be smooth and shiny immediately after application.

-Allow 30 days to cure and use a cleaner/wax to polish and protect the finish.

I went to school for auto body repair and have painted with a "big gun" many times. My tractors are "workers" that don't have the best storage, so I will probably never spend the time and money on "real" paint jobs. One of the local NAPA stores does have the ability to put single-stage automotive paint in aerosol cans, and I plan on experimenting with that someday. B)

[bo dawg 478]

Here's my suggestions:

-Never spray on a very hot day or in direct sunlight.

-Never spray in humid conditions.

-I use Krylon aerosol enamel paint (cherry red) over Krylon primer. (gray)

-Practice diligently before spraying the actual tractor.

-Apply the first tack coat "dry" over scuffed or wet-sanded primer.

-Progressive coats should be heavier and "wetter" - almost to the point of running off.

-Final coat should be smooth and shiny immediately after application.

-Allow 30 days to cure and use a cleaner/wax to polish and protect the finish.

I went to school for auto body repair and have painted with a "big gun" many times. My tractors are "workers" that don't have the best storage, so I will probably never spend the time and money on "real" paint jobs. One of the local NAPA stores does have the ability to put single-stage automotive paint in aerosol cans, and I plan on experimenting with that someday.

How many coats of finish paint do you use TT? Also is there more than 1 of primer?

bo dawg B)

[combatmp29r 27]

TT my only difference is I use Banner Red, alittle brighter shade, and red primer for anything that will be red in the end. When you scratch it it doesn't show as much.

Bo Dawg, I always put 3 coats of primer, and at leaste 3 coats of paint. Just me though. I did prep work in a body shop a couple winters in High school. That was always the minimum put on there, so I've done the same. Just my $.02

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I use Dupli-Color etching primer (aerosol) on as much of the bare metal as I can afford to. I recommend some type of etching primer on rough-cast parts such as engine blocks, front axles, etc. because it seems to adhere much better in the "nooks & crannies". I also use etching primer on newly-fabbed / welded bare steel when I can. (after scuffing with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper and wiping it down with lacquer thinner)

When the etching primer is dry, I scuff it (dry) with 320- 400 grit paper or a Scotch-Brite pad, blow it off with compressed air, and apply 2 or 3 coats of Krylon gray primer. The key is getting a uniform base without light spots so it can be wet sanded smooth without breaking through to bare metal. I usually fog a light DRY dusting of black paint over the gray primer so pits and other imperfections are made visible when sanding. Wet sand lightly with 400 - 600 grit paper until the primer is smooth and all of the black paint disappears - which means there are no more imperfections. (a couple drops of liquid soap added to the water bucket keeps the paper cleaner and washes oil and grease away too. ) Use a sanding block where you can and avoid using your fingertips as much as possible. You might not be able to see it in the primer, but little "ditches" will later appear in your shiny paint.

Unless you're in a big rush to get paint on the parts, allow the primer coat to fully cure and shrink for a day or two before wet sanding. There is no way you can correctly paint anything in just one day. (currently speaking only of aerosol enamels)

Once the primer is wet sanded, wipe the part down with a lint-free rag and compressed air. DO NOT use commercially cleaned shop rags as they can contain oil and grease residue from the cleaning process. If you have sanded through to bare metal, reprime the spot, allow it to dry, and wet sand again.

Just prior to color coat application, wipe the part(s) down with a tack cloth, or another lint-free rag and compressed air. Dampen the area around where you'll be spraying with a little water. (too much water makes increased humidity - which will cause the paint to "blush" or become chalky looking instead of drying glossy and "clear")

Shake the can of paint for at least two or three minutes and lightly apply the first coat, starting with the edges and other hard to reach areas. Since the red is being sprayed over gray, it is very easy to see the hard to reach spots that you're likely to miss once more color has been applied. Allow the first (tack) coat to dry for about 5 minutes and begin applying the next coat in the opposite direction of the first. Overlap the spray pattern enough that it melts together and doesn't leave dry streaks in between. Try to use as long of strokes as you can and keep the spray can parallel with the surface of the object being painted. If you swing the can in an arc, the paint will be thinner at the ends of the stroke than in the middle. Don't be afraid to lay the paint on wet, but not so heavy that it runs or sags. You'll develop a "feel" for the proper amount with time and practice.

Allow the second coat to tack up for about 5 minutes, and apply the third coat in the same direction as the first. This alternating of direction will lessen the chance of "tiger striping" and should produce very acceptable results.

After about a month, you can safely use a cleaner/wax to remove the dry spray and polish the paint surface.

Never dry wipe spray paint - always rinse it with water first! There is no hardener in it and it will scratch easily. Keep it clean and waxed and out of direct sunlight as much as possible and it should be fine. B)

[combatmp29r 27]

Ok so thats alot more informative than my reply LOL. I didn't know about the tigerstripe prevention by changing directions each layer. I'll have to remember that. I have a few pieces ready for some color. Gonna have to add that to the proper technique Thanks Terry

[bustedglass 1]

TT,

Just wondering if you recommend a "Clear Coat" spray over the Red . I plan on painting my little tractor this fall. I have bought actual Toro (Wheel Horse) Red in spray cans, and thought a "Clear Coat" would help with future scratching ?

[dieselhorse 0]

Thats way more than I do. If I am dealing with a very rusty or with lots of misisng paint, then I do primer it. But other wise, I scrap off any flaking paint, then just lay down 3 coats of color, touching up as needed. While I could take the time to sand the hood and fenders where there are chips, mine are working tractors above all, and thus no less than 5 min after using again, they get a scratch or a scuff ect. When I build the diesel suburban, then I will take the time to sand and prep the metal as it will be more for show than work. The 8-8 is a worker. I pulled the mower deck off and just got done painting it. I painted both deck wheel hubs white to match the tractor wheels. I know WH did them in red, but both of mine are not WH rollers so they get to be white. I did get the 8-8 out and ride her around a bit, let the engine bake its paint a bit. With the part number I got in chat last night, the local JD/Toro dealer ordered my part for the headlights. They can get the stuff, but they never carried Wheel Horse, they go the Toro end of it for the ZTR's. Zook's True Value Hardware was the big WH dealer when I was a kid. Cheers Mike

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

TT,

Just wondering if you recommend a "Clear Coat" spray over the Red

Unless you know exactly what type of paint you are dealing with, or the manufacturer also supplies the matching clear, (like in the case of Krylon) I wouldn't recommend applying clear over the Toro aerosol paint.

I have seen many tractors refinished TOO good. (hard to believe, huh? ) Farm and garden tractors never had base coat/clear coat paint jobs, none of the die stamping wrinkles or spot welds were ever filled over, and they sure as heck were never that shiny when new. I have actually seen some farm tractors that looked like they would shatter if you hit them with a hammer. They were hauled in enclosed trailers and were never started after restoration. What fun is that ? ! ? !

To each his own when it comes to painting tractors, and someday I might actually do one with the "big gun". As for right now, I'm happy with my rattle can Horses. (they're still a Wheel Horse, right? )

[bo dawg 478]

Hey TT, after wet sanding do you water rince the parts off? or let dry and then wipe down and blow air?

Also can you use air from a compressor if filtered? because of oil that can spray out of the compressor.

Also, if I understood right, recoating the finish paint layers is just 5 mins or so? doesn't that cause orange peel?

bo dawg B)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I normally have the garden hose handy when wet sanding, so I just spray off the parts with water. My compressor is oilless, so aside from draining the moisture from the tank trap, I never have to be concerned with "wet" air.

Krylon aerosol paint surface flashes in 15 minutes or less. Unless you are painting when the temperature is lower than 70-75 degrees, 5 minutes is usually enough time between coats. If you let it go too long between coats, the next coat won't bond well with the previous coat, which could result in a rough finish, or in the worst case - the layers of paint could flake or peel off over time.

Orange peel is usually the result of improperly thinned paint, too low of air pressure, improper gun settings, or too fast of a reducer. In the case of aerosol cans, you shouldn't have that problem because it is already thinned to the proper viscosity for spraying. When applied heavily enough it should flow out smooth, but not have sags or runs.

[Stigian 1,234]

Nice paint job Mike, your horse is looking good

Wow!! You guys have been busy giving great painting advise

Rattle can paint jobs are a lot of work, loads of prep, but the results can be worth it

[dieselhorse 0]

fresh pics, enjoy. Mike