dsholler 54 #1 Posted December 3, 2012 Sorry if this is obvious, but I am a bit of a newbie to tire chains. I put some chains on my tractor, and they are nice and tight but the chains are a bit long. Do I need to remove the extra crosspiece? What about the slack on the ends? Does that need to be cut off as well? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rydogg 186 #2 Posted December 3, 2012 When I install my chains I do it with the tire deflated than I inflate the tire so the chains tighten up sometimes I over inflate but I have 1 set of tires that are for winter only any extra links that are hanging down get tied up with wire or I just let them hang if it is not too much. I have never had to cut chains but I would if necessary to get the correct length. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wyattrrp 59 #3 Posted December 3, 2012 If the set of chains were made for that tire size they should fit fairly tight on their own. Like this photo of a correctly sized set. Many including me put a bungy cord or springs across the outer circle of the chain sides to keep some tension if not a perfect fit. Like this one which is not a tractor set but still functional. This circular spring with hooks is made to pull the outer chain circle in 8 places on the side of the chain. Just need to be sure the extra length of the sides doesn't fly out hitting the fenders when moving. The inside circle should be snug once the outer circle is pulled tight. If the overall chain length is too long, then either wire the extra links to the sides or remove side links or even a cross chain if need be. Wyatt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GlenPettit 1,714 #4 Posted December 3, 2012 Your chains need to fit snug, - tight . . . like in Wyatts photo's above. You may have gotten a 'generic' set that was made for multiple size tires; 23, 24, 25, 26", and then they would be too long for your 23" tires. A bolt cutter will reduce the size if they are too long, or you can double over a couple links and put a 1x1/4" bolt/washer through the chain links to help shorten (on inside). If you have extra cross-links, you can just add them on anywhere, the more cross-links the better. The pictures are both 4-link (every 4th chain has a cross-link), a 2-link would be a litter smoother ride and slightly better traction; but if either spin on cement or asphalt, they will leave scratches. More weight on the rear wheels & seat ='s better traction and then less spinning/damage. If you have slack, when riding fast, like in 2nd gear, the cross links bulge out and may hit the fender very loudly & slide some on the tire, as centrifical force throws out the links. Install the chains like rydogg suggested; deflated, and then 20 psi is a good Winter tire pressure (but only use a soft 8-10 psi in the Summer for mowing). Photos added, 8:00pm -- 2-link chains n filled tires (Rim Guard, +60#/tire). Chains are left on these tires permanently, I just change the heavy tires. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wyattrrp 59 #5 Posted December 3, 2012 GlenJeri is correct, the key is to have them fit snug so they don't fly out hitting the fenders or other parts. In the photos the 2nd one is a set that is an unusual 3 link set. Each cross chain is connected to every 3rd side link giving them 15 cross chains where the upper photo has only 10 cross chains. You cant buy 3 link chains I dont believe. These came from my father who took a set of chains he actually used on his 1958 Chevy pickup when I was a kid and combined the cross bars from another spare set he had, to make these for a riding mower blue/white piece of dodo tractor in the 60s. (Still have his dedicated chain open/close link pliers!) He gave these to me when I bought the C-125 and although they are a pain to install compared to modern perfect fit ones, they hold a sentimiental value worth keeping and using his outer spring tightener. Today chains I found are 2 link or 4 link. Both will get you through the snow mission when they bite into the packed snow when blowing or plowing. By the way according to many, both of the photos show a set of chains on backwards. The theory is to have the cross chain last link hooking to the side chains with the hooks facing out, not against the tire wall as these are. Sometimes the last hooking longer link on the cross chains has burrs on the hook tips that could cut or mark the tire sidewalls so best to install the chains with that cross chain last link with hooks facing outward. Top photo as I recieved the tractor from PO so not my fault. 2nd photo my install but my old chains have better, less worn cross links on this side so I risk tire marring for better traction. That's my story and I'm sticking to it !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #6 Posted December 4, 2012 When I install chains on tires for the winter, I make them fit snug and cut off any excess chain. I don't need any extra chain flopping around and possibly catching something under the fender and screwing something up! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsholler 54 #7 Posted December 4, 2012 I did deflate the tires, and they are 2 link chains. I got them on there pretty tight on their own. I pumped them up to 20lbs and added the spring tensioners on the outside as well. . They are tight...it is the length that is a bit much.. the hook (which I did manage to install facing out, after doing it the wrong way the first time )is through the link prior to the last cross chain. I am hearing I should cut out that cross chain and also shorten the side chains so they do not flap (Hmm, not sure I have a cutter that will work on a hardened chain...) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
