Sleeve Hitch

[Tankman 3,515]

After many moons, and a lot of oil, liquid wrench, WD-40, tap tap here, tap tap there, finally without damage was able to get the pin out of the sleeve hitch and transmission.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh, finally!

Now I'm going to install the tow hitch along with the sleeve hitch. Or, perhaps just the towing hitch. Opinions? When installing I use chassis grease as "preventative maintenance."

I used to use the sleeve hitch for a single bottom plow, worked fine as long as I used suitcase weights up front. Made my own front bumper for the suitcase weights.

I'm going back a long, long time ago. Haven't used a sleeve hitch in ages but, why not have both? :-)

[Rock farmer 41]

I keep both on my tractors.

Makes life easier!

I like to use never seize thread lube on the pin.

Joe

[Tankman 3,515]

I keep both on my tractors.

Makes life easier!

I like to use never seize thread lube on the pin.

Joe

I'm too old, forgetful. I have Never-Seez®, going to use some after paint dries

on the tow hitch before reassembly. Thanks for the reminder!

[Don1977 604]

If you go to Tractor Supply or some other farm store and buy a 3/4" pin with the loop type handle they are a little smaller in diameter and a lot easier to remove.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/hitch-pin-3-4-in-dia-x-6-1-2-in-usable-length-0269052

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Some have even been known to go to the trouble of drilling & tapping the pin boss for a grease fitting & grinding a matching 'grease dispersion' groove in the pin.

It's a shame WH engineers didn't think of that! :disgust:

[Tankman 3,515]

Some have even been known to go to the trouble of drilling & tapping the pin boss for a grease fitting & grinding a matching 'grease dispersion' groove in the pin.

It's a shame WH engineers didn't think of that!

Almost sounds like "required." That would've been a good adder! I have heard of a few cracked tranny housings. Ouch!

Now the manual should read, "Remove pin and grease after cleaning your Stallion!"

Sleeve hitch is on the '68 Raider 12. Now, what should I do with it? Needed it, 'cause! Used Never-Seez® as advised (thank you Rock Farmer) on the pin!

[Tankman 3,515]

If you go to Tractor Supply or some other farm store and buy a 3/4" pin with the loop type handle they are a little smaller in diameter and a lot easier to remove.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/hitch-pin-3-4-in-dia-x-6-1-2-in-usable-length-0269052

Will pick one up this week! Need one anyway (other Horses) have pins already. On second thought, I'll check it out. Might be too long, possibly engaging the earth below.

If so, guess I could just cut it down a few inches. Easy enough.

[Rock farmer 41]

I use my slot hitch for my cultivator and mold board plow.

It's a nice stiff hitch, Brinly's are too loosey goosey for me.

But, they have their place.

If your using ground engaging equipment, I would not use a loose fitting pin.

You may break your differential casting.

On a side note, I have one hitch pin that uses push pins instead of "C" clips.

While I'm not going to drill a hole through the pin, it sure makes changing the hitch

A snap!

Joe

Edited November 27, 2012 by Rock farmer

[leeave96 487]

Tankman,

The slot hitch looks like it can be used with the tow hitch at the same time. If I recall correctly, the clevis hitch gets in the way of the tow hitch as it sticks out past it somewhat.

Looking at your pic of the slot hitch, I'm wondering if that could be used in place of the clevis hitch and like you - keep both installed at the same time.

On keeping the pin through the tranny boss from rusting, the only way I know of to do this without a mod is to keep it heavily greased and do it at least once a year. This reminds me I need to do this on my fleet of Wheelhorse tractors.

[Tankman 3,515]

I too used the sleeve hitch for a cultivator and mold board plow.

Neighbors were amazed at the little Horse's ability to plow. So was I! That was 30-40 years ago.

The plow I took from a multi plow set, bent (Pacific Hydraulic Brake (250 ton) a piece of thick SS flatbar to fit into the sleeve hitch. Welded the flatbar to the plow arm (or whatever it's called).

Using the thick flatbar, I didn't have any wiggle in the sleeve. The flatbar was thick, if I remember correctly, thinking I machined the part of the flatbar that went into the sleeve. Was havin' a lot of fun. Lot of shoppin' at Northern Hydraulics too.

Never had to remove the hitch pin except on occasion to grease it. Luckily I have a few "C" clips, spares in my tool box. The tow hitch does extend out further than the sleeve hitch. Both can be left on for whatever purpose; ground engaging or towing a trailer or sweeper.

My old horse (whatever, that was long ago), had the same setup, rear discharge deck and sweeper. Drop off the sweeper and pickup the mold board plow or cultivator. I made a front bumper for suitcase weights to keep the nose down when plowing.

[Rock farmer 41]

I've got three WH tractors, three fixed hitches, two slot hitches and one brinly hitch.

The other day I wanted to use a slot hitch on my 1276.

So I just pull the push pin and slide the shaft out. Remove the Brinly.

But then I realized I'd installed both slot hitches on the other machines!

Fastest way to remove those "C" clips is to wack em with a cold chizal.

I think I'll get a third slot hitch.

I'm surprised you needed to add weight up front? I haven't felt the need.

Joe

[Tankman 3,515]

Rock Farmer:

My mold board plow was a 12" I believe, the bent "Z" section I welded on leveled

the mold board to 'bout 8" depth. The plow had a sharp coulter wheel. The setup looked, "Ready to work!", and was!

The front end of my WH wanted to rise, and did, to the point that I lost steering.

Front wheels cleared by a couple of inches, the ground.

Didn't actually matter much, could slowly plow in a fairly straight line. Front weights kept the steering wheels on the ground.

Like most, I imagine, in the forums, plowed, mowed, towed, just to ride the Red Stallion. WH's need exercise too ya know!