rmaynard 14,950 #1 Posted November 10, 2012 Well, let me tell you. I disassembled my K161 from my 701, and took the block, piston, crankshaft, and valves to the machine shop to have everything spec'd. This engine has never been serviced internally. All parts are original. The verdict: The shop owner recommended a simple ball-hone to the cylinder, new rings, and polishing the crankshaft journal. In other words, after 50 years of use, a simple shave and a haircut, and it's good to go. Another interesting thing that he said. After rebuilding literally 100's of K-Series engines, he is absolutely convinced that these engines should be lubricated with straight 30W oil only. In dynomometer tests, he found a discernible reduction in power using multi-viscosity oils. He is not sure what to attributes that to, but straight 30W had no such loss. He also feels that 30W lubricates better and offers more overall protection against premature wear. I did not ask about synthetics. Interesting food for thought and discussion. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #2 Posted November 10, 2012 Maybe thats why Kohler specs straight 30 wt for the engine. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #3 Posted November 10, 2012 Thats all I needed on my 875. Just DON'T USE CHROME MOLLY RINGS!!!! use the original cast rings. I learned my lesson on this one :banghead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,678 #4 Posted November 10, 2012 30wt is the only oil I run in all my tractor's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #5 Posted November 10, 2012 Gotta appreciate the honesty of the shop......good info on the oil....thanks.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,011 #6 Posted November 10, 2012 Looks like you've got a good one Bob, That'll save you some $$$ :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
specialwheelhorse 174 #7 Posted November 13, 2012 Well, let me tell you. I disassembled my K161 from my 701, and took the block, piston, crankshaft, and valves to the machine shop to have everything spec'd. This engine has never been serviced internally. All parts are original. The verdict: The shop owner recommended a simple ball-hone to the cylinder, new rings, and polishing the crankshaft journal. In other words, after 50 years of use, a simple shave and a haircut, and it's good to go. Another interesting thing that he said. After rebuilding literally 100's of K-Series engines, he is absolutely convinced that these engines should be lubricated with straight 30W oil only. In dynomometer tests, he found a discernible reduction in power using multi-viscosity oils. He is not sure what to attributes that to, but straight 30W had no such loss. He also feels that 30W lubricates better and offers more overall protection against premature wear. I did not ask about synthetics. Interesting food for thought and discussion. Keep that man in business, It's been my experiance that there are very few Ks that need much more than you have here. A ball hone to break the glaze and crosshatch a good set of rings a valve grind and some tweaking on the crank,perhaps a con-rod and she;s ready to go. Oh yes true the head. It's amazing the hours on some of these and still in spec. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
