Tire chains

[dsholler 54]

I expect this is a really basic question, but I have had the good fortune to go through life never having put tire chains on any vehicle I have owned. However, Now that I have a tractor and a snowthower, I am looking forward to having the clearest driveway on the block. So I need some chains. I have discovered that my tractor seems to have a somewhat unusual tire size.. they are 23X9.5X12. I was looking for a set of used ones, but there do not seem to be any in this size for sale near me. Given that, I am happy to get some new ones, but there seem to be a bewildering number of brand names, vendors, etc. out there. I also see a lot of them are advertised for both 8.5 and 9.5 size, but in every case where that is true, they also say that you need one of those chain tensioner thingys to hold them on.

So my questions are: is there any real difference between the various brands of chain? (I am looking for a 2 link set).

Are the 8.5 and 9.5 sizes really the same?

Do you really need a tensioner if they fit properly?

Thanks in advance

[KC9KAS 4,741]

The tensioner as they call it is a good tarp strap at my stable. I use 2 short straps criss crossed on each tire chain.

The tarp strap (on the outside of the tire) just helps keep the chains tight so they don't "flop" and hit the fenders or catch on something on the inside of the wheel. No faster than these tractors move, the flopping probably wouldn't be an issue, but on a truck or auto, it is a must because of the faster rotation & speed.

Try to keep the chains tight and centered on the tire and put a tarp strap on the outside, and you will be set.

The 2 link chains are the way to go, but 4 link have worked well for me in the past. If you buy new chains and the manufacture says they fit a certain size tire, then they should fit that size tire.

[chevrat68 19]

I use some old springs for my chains. Don't over fill your tires with air. If you do the tire will not make good contact with the ground if you use them on pavement. They will spin and eat up your chains.

[1maidenfan 201]

At my work we put tire chains on all of our snow removeal equipment.(excluding pickup trucks)

Found that the best way(at least for us) is to let the air out of the tires, put chains on then air tires up till chains are tight. As mentioned before, dont over inflate, if chains are still loose cut a link out and re-attach. The guys I work with have been dooing it that way for years.

Definatly want 2 link chains more traction and no "thump, thump" like a 4 link will give you.

[can whlvr 991]

i would get the 2 link with v bars,supperior traction,and theres really no differance betwen 8.5 and 9.5 as all tractor tires are a little different,just fit them and remove any excess links,and under inflating and then blowing up the tire is how ive done it fot a few decades and it works great

[dsholler 54]

Thanks guys. I have ordered some new chains, and decided to pony up for the adjusters since they were very cheap. I did not go for the v-bar because I have a paved driveway. I will post some pics when the snow starts to fall. :)

[can whlvr 991]

some guys like the rubber chains for paved drives,but im pretty sure they are pricey compared to the steel ones

[Tankman 3,515]

Always used chain tensioners, never a problem.

The Horse, or any garden tractor, moves slow enough.

Always carried chains in my F-250 Super Cap (no 4-wheel drive) and tensioners.

My drive is modified crushed stone, 'bout 100 yards long, never a problem.

Plow slow, push snow, take breaks. My teenage boys did the plowing when they

were in junior and senior high school. Was a pleasure gettin' home, drive snow less, plowed.

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

Dragging up old thread to add new question rather than start a new one...

 

I'm in the process of modifying a set of chains from a larger tire ( 10.50 vs the 8.50 on my machine ) and am debating whether or not to remove one more link... 

 

Right now, the side chains have enough slack in them that I can pull them a bit tighter and it appears that I could remove one more link... but they will be fairly snug.

 

I'm thinking it's better to leave a bit of slack and use the tensioners to take it up... sounds like a plan?

[chevyaddict83 39]

Dragging up old thread to add new question rather than start a new one...

I'm in the process of modifying a set of chains from a larger tire ( 10.50 vs the 8.50 on my machine ) and am debating whether or not to remove one more link...

Right now, the side chains have enough slack in them that I can pull them a bit tighter and it appears that I could remove one more link... but they will be fairly snug.

I'm thinking it's better to leave a bit of slack and use the tensioners to take it up... sounds like a plan?

Very solid plan. Better to have the slack

www.perfecttrimlawnandgardencare.com

[GlenPettit 1,714]

Weight or chain(s) on the front is a major help, especially for turning & steering on ice.

Some have used a single bicycle chain wrapped around the tire to keep the front tires from slipping on the turns.

Your front snowblower is very heavy, extra weight on the back is a major help, I like to have the rear tires filled with "Rim-guard" (gives 60# extra on @ wheel, lug nuts are still exposed = easy removal of tire in Spring) and this weight greatly improves traction with chains, and will give a lot less slipping/damage on an asphalt drive.

It's smart to have a pair of Winter tires (with Weight & Chains, at 20 psi) and also a pair of Summer tires (wide and light, 10#) for mowing grass.

Install your chain with the open 'cross-link' hooks on the outside (away from rubber), use lots of tensioners (inside)

.

Edited July 9, 2013 by GlenPettit

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

Thanks for the help guys...

 

Not using a blower, but the 42" plow blade, so weight on rear probably doesn't need to be as great as with blower, but I do also have wheel weights and the driveway is crushed 3/4" bluestone.  I should be OK with traction I think.

 

 

... use lots of tensioners (inside)...

 

I'm curious about this statement... I'm not sure I understand...  do you mean "inside" as on the transaxle side of the tire/wheel?  How would one work the tensioners around the axle/hub ?

[Tankman 3,515]

Just use the tensioners on the outside of the wheels. Works great. I use the rubber tensioners with the plastic clips, 'bout five clips to each band. Nice and clean, no flappin' of loose chains.

 

Although I have wheel weights, never needed them. The chains worked great with tensioners.

PS. Picked up a few sets of tensioners, inexpensive enough, from Pep Boys.

Edited July 16, 2013 by Tankman

[rick 216]

I put the tensioners on the inside of the wheel before I put the wheel back on...enough stuff on the outside with the plastic wheel weights.if I ever get around to having a set of tires foamed, I will do without the weights, maybe.

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

Rick, I was thinking that the wheel/tire didn't need to be removed?  Install the same way as auto/truck chains, lay them out, drive onto them, hookemup... 

 

Do you find it necessary to remove wheel to install chains?  or is it that much easier that it makes the extra effort worthwhile?

[dcrage 621]

Jeff -- You can easily put your chains on with the wheels on the tractor. I always end up using a jack to put them on. The biggest problem I have is making sure they are on before the first snow storm

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

That's what I thought Dave... I was wondering why Rick seems to take his wheels off to install the chains?

[Tankman 3,515]

I have enough slack in my chains to mount 'em without removing the tires. Mount chains, some slack, slip on the tensioners. Done deal slack is gone. I don't like the loose chains chattering or possibly hitting the Stallions' fender pans.

 

I have a WH snow thrower, complete P/N 6-1211, great shape that I've never used. Was purchased as a package deal.

 

I had 17" 10 ply tires, split rims, on my '75 F250 11,100 GVW Ford Super Cab (purchased new). Needed chains in snow, mounted the chains and tensioners the same way. On the vehicle. 

 

I have wheel weights but, haven't had the need for them in years. Chains 'n plow away.

 

I back the snowy WH's into my cement floor barn on top of 2" x 10" x 8' boards. This keeps the chains and plow out of the melted snow and ice puddles. Off season I keep the chains in a clean 5 gal plastic pail with lid, well oiled. Guess I have too much time on my hands, retired. 

Edited July 17, 2013 by Tankman

[dcrage 621]

Oiled??? -- Never thought of doing that to chains

[Tankman 3,515]

Oiled??? -- Never thought of doing that to chains

Rather than let 'em rust away, any oil'll work.

 

At times movin' stuff in the barn, I roll the pail around a little bit. Why? Don't know, just 'cause.

 

Plowing snow is a favorite past time for Sons, Grandsons, and me too, We plow then hand spread a bit of rock salt on icy patches. Drives and parking are most always clear 'n clean. If the weatherman is calling for a foot of the white stuff, the boys plow every 3-4 inches (they just wanna ride 'em cowboy).

 

The blade edges have been removed, new carriage bolts are stainless steel as are the locking nuts.

Top edge of the blade edge is sprayed with PB Blaster thinking the "juice" works down between the cutting edge and the plow itself.......I think.

 

My 400's and 520 get fit with blades late fall and are ready for the Boys to get 'em up Horsey. Plow time at the barn. They love the Stallions workin', goose down, and the snow! 

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

 

I keep the chains in a clean 5 gal plastic pail with lid,

 

The ones that I recently acquired were already pretty rusty.  I think not badly enough that they are going to be trouble. 

 

That's EXACTLY what I did with them after I cut them down to fit and spent about an hour puzzling over how to get the twists out of them.  Through the years that these weren't well cared for, they got all twisted up.  There's a definite trick to getting them un-twisted!

[rick 216]

I leave the chains and weights on the 314-8 all the time. It is the dozer tractor, pulling stuff tractor.The tensioners have dry rotted and fallen off. There isn't  so much slack in the chains that it's a problem..

Chains don't get twisted if they never get thrown in a bucket.

It's just not a big deal.