K482 Oil Pressure

[JamesBe1 84]

I have a K482 that I just put back together after tearing it down to have the crank turned. I don't think that I am getting oil pressure or flow through the system.

Before I started it, I turned it over a few times with the starter. I noticed that there was oil leaking from the screws that hold down the oil filter adapter cap. It is just a cap that they use when there is no oil filter installed, and the cap just has a channel that runs about two inches to span two ports on the engine. Anyhow, I found the the gasket was blow between one of the ports and the nearest bolt. I was obviously getting plenty of pressure. I made a new gasket for it, and reinstalled. While I had it off, I turned the engine over with the starter, and oil squirted out of one of the ports. Apparently my oil pump is working fine.

Also, I have an oil pressure gage installed that taps off of a port on the top front of the engine. When I was cranking it, I noticed the oil in the clear plastic line moving from the pressure, and some minor movement on the pressure gage.

So after reinstalling the oil filter adapter cap, I started it for the first time. The oil pressure gage went up to about 10 or 15 psi and then went down to 0. There was some minor weeping from the oil filter adapter cap that stopped after I tightened the bolts a tiny bit more. I get no indication on the oil pressure gage, and am wondering if I am getting oil flow. I removed the oil pressure gage line from the port in the front of the engine and fired it up for a few seconds. Nothing. No oil at all.

Anybody got any ideas?

I sure don't want to run this engine with a clog in the oil system somewhere. How could I check it and how could I clear it out without having to tear apart the whole engine?

The fact that the gasket under the oil filter adapter cap blew makes me believe that there is a clog.

[Don1977 605]

It doesn't sound like you have the gauge attached to the right area. I would drill and tap that cap where you had the leak to attach the line to the gauge. As for checking to see if the oil port is open you might try running a small guitar string up the supply port to see if it open. From your description of where you have attached the line to the block I believe you are reading air pressure in the crank case and it changes every time the piston moves up and down.

[JamesBe1 84]

It doesn't sound like you have the gauge attached to the right area. I would drill and tap that cap where you had the leak to attach the line to the gauge. As for checking to see if the oil port is open you might try running a small guitar string up the supply port to see if it open. From your description of where you have attached the line to the block I believe you are reading air pressure in the crank case and it changes every time the piston moves up and down.

Thanx Don. That is some great food for thought.

I can say that I had a different engine on this frame for many months, and used the same spot to measure the oil pressure. Also, Paul (Pfrederi) uses the same setup as I believe a number of folks to.

I kinda don't relish the idea of taking the engine off and cracking it open again, but I may have no choice. Sure don't want to run it without proper oil flow throughout the system. I only start it and run it for 10 or 15 seconds before I start to worry and shut it down.

I am going to hunt down a small wire and see about running in through several of the ports to try to clear out whatever is blocking the system.

[bobert94 38]

you might want to take one of valve covers off and see if there is any sign of oil making it up there.This would give you an idea if its ahole system problem or a plugged pasage going to your oil pressure guage port.

[JamesBe1 84]

Last night, I noticed that the brass compression nut that holds the oil pressure line into the block was loose. I went to tighten it and found that it was broken, and there was really nothing holding the line in the block.

It took me a while to find an 1/8" compression sleeve and nut way in the back of my local autoparts bog box store, and I finally found one. Installed it, and started the engine. No indication on the pressure gage.

I popped the valve covers off as Bobert94 suggested, and didn't really see an indication that there was much, if any, oil there.

Looking at my old block, I find that the oil exits the oil pump, to the oil filter (in this case a cap with a channel), back into the block and right over to the rear crank bearing. It also goes up to the top of the engine to lubricate the cam bearing. Along the way, there are a couple of allen plugs on the top of the engine. I took one out and cranked the engine to see of any oil came out (I disconnected the plug wires at this point as I didn't want the engine to fire) as I cranked it with the starter, and there was nothing. Not the slightest bit of oil. There should have been something trying to come out as this normally runs about 40PSI.

The next thing I am going to try is to remove oil pressure adjuster that sits near the bottom of the block. It could be that the ball and spring are stuck open.

Also, I am going to try to hunt down a long fine wire to run through a few of the channels.

I'll post my results.

Thanx all for all the advice. I know it isn't the typical repair here as most tractors are single cylinders, but I appreciate the help.

[JamesBe1 84]

I finally figured out why I had no oil pressure. I got around to taking the engine off of the tractor and dismantling it. When I took the timing plate cover off, a small piece of metal fell on the ground. It kinda looked like the end of a bolt or something. Everything else under the cover looked normal until I started looking closely. The small piece of metal was from the oil pump shaft. It was part of the shaft that held its drive gear in place. The gear is held on the shaft by a pin, and not only did the pin shear, but the shaft broke off at that point too.

Really odd why that would break. I figured that maybe the impellers got a piece of metal jammed in between them. I took the oil pump out and took it apart. Nope, everything was clean. For some reason, the second impeller was seized against the wall of the oil pump housing. I guess that's what made the other impellers stop and the pin on it's shaft break. I finally got the second impeller off with a few taps of a hammer. The area underneath there the impeller was stuck was kinda scratched up from the turning impeller being pushed up against it.

Dunno why it decided to seize up like that. I made sure everything was turning freely before I put it back together. At any rate, I have to replace the whole thing. At least there are a couple of ebay.

Anybody know where I can pick up the tabbed lock washer for under the flywheel nut? It is 277595-S. It is NLA from Kohler.

[JamesBe1 84]

Got a new (used) oil pump, and finally got it all back together last weekend. Got the engine back on the tractor a few days ago, and turned it over with the starter. Found out that I failed to tighten the bolts on the oil filter bypass, and wound up with a nice puddle of oil under that tractor. At least the oil was flowing.

Got the bolts tightened and the rest of the engine hooked up this afternoon. Started it up and it gave me 45-50psi. Woohoo!

Unfortunately, my plastic oil pressure line got a kink in it and started leaking. I will have to hit the autoparts store tomorrow and pick up a 1/8' splice.

[JamesBe1 84]

Could use a little advice from my bretheren here.

I got the engine running, but the No 2 cylinder likes to backfire through the exhaust. It's happens mostly at full throttle, but it does it pretty much throughout the RPM range.

The No 1 cylinder seems to be running just fine which leads me to believe that the problem is not with the carb.

I re-checked the exhaust valve gap, and I get 0.018/0.019. The spec is 0.017/0.020. I did my best to lap the valves before putting things back together, but not being experienced at it, I can't really say that I did it right. I did not see anything on any of the valves that looked bad. But then again, I might not have known what I was looking for. (I guess that's where experience comes in!)

I was going to order a new exhaust valve, but before I did, I was hoping someone could tell me if it is worth the effort. Also, is there anything that I need to do besides setting the gap properly?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanx,

James

[SousaKerry 503]

May be a spark problem and you are getting unburned fuel into the exhaust where gasses from the other cylinder ignite them. Check your points and coil, maybe swap the ignition wires around and see if the other cylinder picks up the problem.

Wait is this the magneto version or the double coil ignition like the later model engines??

[JamesBe1 84]

May be a spark problem and you are getting unburned fuel into the exhaust where gasses from the other cylinder ignite them. Check your points and coil, maybe swap the ignition wires around and see if the other cylinder picks up the problem.

Wait is this the magneto version or the double coil ignition like the later model engines??

Thanx! That's a great idea moving the spark plug wires. I may even move the spark plug too.

This is a battery ignition model with the double ignition coil. Also, I installed a points saver on it. I could recheck the points, but they are brand new, and seem to be opening at the correct time. Using the points saver is a great way to set the points/ignition timing.