Mounting blade questions?

[glgrumpy 35]

Had a charger 12 awhile. Bought a C100 few weeks ago and came with plow. Putting plow on Charger, thinking all is same.........NOT! First found the support/mount for bac axle had some flat 90* angles that were around the axle and one bolt thru it. Tried to put on Charger and flat angles don't fit! Was at first thinking bolt spread diff? But when I left out those parts it bolted on fine. Did find the axles slightly diff size. Chager has bigger 1-1/8" axles and must have bigger housing?? OR, is the diff because one is manual and one auto?? Must be many diff mounts. Downloaded a manual with several model blades, all looked pretty much the same, but guess not. I see diff mounts for axles and some blade frames have a built in rear mount rod, others have a loose one to slip in. I didn't have that part, so found good rod and drilled and pinned ends to keep it on blade frame. NOW, when hooking up lift chain had trouble. Two holes in lift arm. I used outer one, and couldn't get the lift arm to click into lock-UP position. If I used the second hole, it gives diff leverage and more distance to move and that worked. The blade frame actually hits the front axle on both sides with no play, so need all the room you can get to stay up in lock position. Is there actually diff frames that would allow more room there?? This one would need a bend in it or ? to make work w/out hitting. Got the turn arm to work, BUT, it hits the floor pan when trying to go way left with it. I see other tractor has it's pan cut-out at that area for the brake pedal or such and that would make room for the swing lever to come back more. Well, got it on and went out and dragged it on pavement a few times, looks like it is gonna work! Sure had to oil and grease all the joints to get them looser and easier to use. Helped alot. Now, just gotta see why the lights don't work anymore after I fixed once and then try my chains on it and see if right size.

[Kelly 1,028]

The spacers are for hydro or stick can't remember what one, but not needed for the other, the movable rear bar got welded in place in the late 70's early 80's as it was movable only to use on a short frame tractor, and they quit building them in the early 70's and no the frames are pretty much the same that lift and hitting the axle has been a issue.

[glgrumpy 35]

The spacers info I finally found on a later model blade mount manual. It had pics of each step and all.I like pictures! I also found in same manual that the arm for turning blade needs to be turned around so it leans OUT, not in on an automatic. Clears the floorboard and brake pedal that way. I went out and did that on mine and see it also has some cut-away in same area. Guess it also clears the electric pto better too in that position. I put some chains on it today and shouldbe good to go now for winter. Probly won't snow enough to use it now! :roll: