1" axle hub

[wheelhorsekoserpulling 0]

I've got a wheel horse pulling tractor and this afternoon i broke one of my rear axle hubs. The one that broke is a narrower hub than the other side. The tranny is a 5053. Anybody with a good spare hub sitting around please let me know. I need to find one somewhere before 7/25. thanks

[Rideawaysenior 25]

I'll take a look and see what I have but you should have either 1in. or 1 and 1/8th, not a mix match. Just seems a bit out of whack.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

I think he means that the flange is thin with the thicker "spokes" around the lug bolt holes only, which was typical of the early 5 lug tractors. The newer hub flanges are smooth on the back side toward the transmission and are thicker than the old "spoked" type.

I found a nice pair of hubs on EBAY with the thick flanges and the double locking bolts. These are the strongest OEM 1" hubs made for WH tractors.

[Rideawaysenior 25]

Gotcha, I understand now what you are talking about Terry.

Thanks, I was starting to wonder if he had two different tranny cases there. LOL

Jack

[Duff 206]

.....with the thick flanges and the double locking bolts. These are the strongest OEM 1" hubs made for WH tractors.

Hi, TT!

I think this is still on topic......

When I stripped down my 312-8 for resto I had a h*ll of a time getting the hubs off the axles. I found the locking bolts had actually dug into the axle and forced up/displaced a ring of metal at each of the contact points. Once I got the hubs off I could see the "drag marks" those metal circles were making inside the bore of the hub as the hub slid off. My question is - is there a proper torque setting to maintain correct tightness without chewing up the axle surface, or is what I encountered just the locking bolts doing their jobs?

Before I put the hubs back on I carefully filed off the high spots and the hubs slid on very smoothly - no slop, but no real resistance.

Your advice/expertise, please?

Thanks!

Duff

Oh - and wheelhorsekoserpulling, !

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Right or wrong, I'll tell you what I do when installing wheel hubs, Duff.

I have a round wire brush for an 8 gauge Remington industrial "ring-blaster" gun that I use to clean the hub bores. I use emery cloth on the axles to shine them up, and a file to dress up the edges of the woodruff keys and the divots left by the set screws. Once everything is clean and shiny, I apply a light coating of anti-seize to the axles and slide the hubs on.

If the hub has two set screws, I always tighten the one over the key first. (same thing I do on pullies) I use a boxed end 7/16 wrench on the square head set screws and pull on the wrench until my knuckles turn a little white, or a "growling" noise from behind me tells me to stop.

Tighten the jam nut with a 9/16" wrench, and proceed to the second set screw. (if applicable.)

I usually run the tractor for a little while and check the set screws to make sure they're still tight. (if I remember.)

[BPjunk 184]

You can tighten the axle hub set screws to 35 ft pounds, it is also a good idea to use Loctite on the threads. But do like Terry mentioned TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW OVER THE KEY WAY FIRST, this centers the hub on the shaft and then tighten the second set screw.

Wild Bill in Richmond, Va.

[Duff 206]

TT and Bill, !!!

I think I did it pretty much the way you guys described, although I can't specifically remember what order I tightened the set screws (I do have two per hub). I think it was the one over the key first. Either way, I've made a note in my work book for the next time I have to take them off!

And I am WAY overdue to invest in a torque wrench......

You guys are the best!

Duff B)