leeave96 487 #1 Posted July 29, 2012 Mowed three yards yesterday with my mighty 520H and it's always a struggle with me as to where to set the height on my 520H's and the 314-8. The decks are 48" side discharge and a 42 inch rear discharge. For reference, typically I mow my grass at 2.5 inches height as per the cast numbers on my trimming mower's (Lawnboy) deck. The Wheelhorse decks mentioned above seem to give me the 2.5 inches when I set the deck at the second hole - at the high side of the adjustment range. I get a beautiful cut. I also will get a bit of scalping at this setting if I'm mowing a yard that is overly lumpy. If I set the deck at the highest setting, I get a terrific cut and it's hard to scalp under most any yard condition. Problem is - the grass is about 3 inches tall and looks like it needs mowed after a few days. Yesterday, I mowed some grass that was still wet from the night before and was thick. I mowed it at the 2nd hole setting - 2.5 inches. I had to be careful because of a combo of wet and thick grass, and slowed the tractor to keep the clippings even coming out the deck. At another yard, I set the deck at the highest setting and had a great go of it. I can't imagine going lower than the second hole from the top - I think I'd scalp the heck out of the yard. My question is - what setting do you mow with your Wheelhorse? BTW - I've got it on my list of things to do - to make a pull behind stripper and that highest setting appears well suited to give the grass a tall enough cut that stripping would be possible. Thanks!!!!!!!! Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #2 Posted July 29, 2012 Sound like your rollers and roller axles are worn out, could also be the base wheels and axles. I have a 48" deck and the yard would have to be really rough for it to scalp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeremy Watson 22 #3 Posted July 29, 2012 Personnely I have replaced the deck wheel with 7" and cut in the highest setting and think its still to low. Good luck Jeremy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommyg 152 #4 Posted July 30, 2012 Speaking from a landscaper perspective, 3" is really the lowest you should cut. Cutting lower damages the grass and invites weeds to start. Just sayin'. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hbrooks49 12 #5 Posted July 30, 2012 Personnely I have replaced the deck wheel with 7" and cut in the highest setting and think its still to low. Good luck Jeremy Where did you get the wheels and how did you deal with the offset required to clear the deck ?? I tried a pair of 7 inch offset wheels from TSC and the scrubbed the deck no matter what I did. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #6 Posted July 30, 2012 Agronomy, grass. You should only mow (cut off) 1/3 rd of the grass at any cutting. More than that injures the grass as well as creating too much thatch; smothers the grass. Mow as often as necessary to stay within this guideline. If you're maintaining turf, adjust pH to 7 (mid range). Lawn weeds'll disappear. In my location the #1 problem is erosion, 2nd is compaction. Applications of gypsum help both. I often spread sand around the barn walls, lawn, everywhere. Swallowed by the turf, improves drainage, keeps roots warm (sand absorbs and holds heat) during the growing season. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #7 Posted July 30, 2012 Speaking from a landscaper perspective, 3" is really the lowest you should cut. Cutting lower damages the grass and invites weeds to start. Just sayin'. Agreed. Cutting your lawn at 3" helps to keep it cooler, shades out crabgrass and other weed seeds making it harder for them to germinate. It is also shown to promote deeper root growth. Make sure to cut often enough to keep it from clumping and cutting off more than about 1/3rd at a time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #8 Posted July 30, 2012 I don't cut w/ a horse'n'deck, but I just started cutting my grass a 3" this year. (I used to scalp it really short.) Big difference, as the weeds didn't "take over" this summer. It also looks great taller, and feels nicer on the feet. It also rebounds quicker after a heat/dry spell. Just my $.02. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SNYFIX 12 #9 Posted July 30, 2012 Something else too is to make sure your deck is level. As the frames wear etc. the front of the deck will start 'lowering' and/or if the dealer didn't check the level when assembling/servicing the machine before delivery this will 'speed this up'. Then you'll start going through front rollers, the deck can catch on roots bending it back into the blades, and you'll start getting a undesireable cut. This happens so gradual over time it goes unnoticed to the untrained eye. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skrusins 128 #10 Posted July 30, 2012 In my area we have the dog days of summer late July- Sept. This year I think it started in May. During that time I go to 3 1/2 in. They say the taller the grass the deeper the root. That is what you want when it's hot and dry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chevydave 25 #11 Posted July 31, 2012 My 416-8 started scalping last year - it's an '89 I've had since new. I leveled the deck via the adjustment bar at rear of the deck and put new deck wheels on - standard size. My cut length went way up and I also noticed that I don't have near the grass on top of the deck when I get done mowing. I also adjusted the height the deck goes up to in the up position. It seems I got at least another 1" to 1-1/2" in grass length at the same setting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hydro 130 #12 Posted July 31, 2012 I have my deck set at its highest position almost always and like others here especially this year when it has been so dry I would be happy to let the grass grow to 3-1/2". I've been considering a slightly bigger pair of guide wheels in order to give me more height but not sure what would work. I never ever cut below the second highest position. You should not be scalping at that setting. The beauty of the 8 speed is the manual lift, you can really dial in the height of your mower deck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #13 Posted July 31, 2012 I believe the mower deck manual for the 42" 5-1010 and the 48" 5-1210 reads, "front of the deck slightly lower than the back." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #14 Posted July 31, 2012 The beauty of the 8 speed is the manual lift, you can really dial in the height of your mower deck. I don't think you use the dial-a-height for the deck height at all. The deck height is determined by the adjustments on the deck. The lift lever should be set to go all the way down. Thanks! Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dcrage 621 #15 Posted July 31, 2012 The dial-a-height may not be designed for use on your mowing deck as a mowing height control (I know TT weighed in on this point in the past) I can tell you from years of using it, it does gain extra height on the resultant grass cut -- I think the issue is there is no way to ensure a level cut when your deck height is being controlled by the lift lever Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #16 Posted August 1, 2012 I cut greenish/brown vegetation to about 2 inches during the growing season. This promotes the growth of what I think is grass for about a month in May. Before and after May, this “grass†goes dormant developing an inferiority complex with all the invasive species around it. PS...........36 and 37 inch decks for the 310-8 Speed. (42 inch max on manicured lawns). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #17 Posted August 1, 2012 The idea is to cut often, limits damage to the turf. Correct, 3" high grass will shade new grass growin'; i.e.: when seeding. Seeding (over seeding) is best done in the fall, less heat, less chance of a dry spell. Our grass is cool season grow, dormant in the heat of summer. The newly broadcast seed will grow in the winter, thrive in the spring before leaves shade the lawn. There is no such thing as shady lawn grass seed. ALL grass needs sunlight. FYI. The more names a grass seed has, the better; i.e.: bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, Kentucky Vita Blue (grass). Kentucky Vita Blue being the hardiest of the three. When the root system gets thicker, less chance for weed seeds to germinate in the turf. But, grass loves a neutral pH. Weeds like acidic turf. Test and adjust the pH, Improve drainage if needed, sand is swallowed by the soil and the grass roots'll follow deep. Keep off frozen turf grasses. The little roots will crack and break damaging your lawn areas. Never "chop" off more than a third of your grasses at one time. Injury to the grass and will cause thatch buildup. Enjoy your ride, take the Horse out for a spin more often! :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites