BairleaFarm 339 #1 Posted July 18, 2008 The hydro is jerky on my C160. No matter how slowly i move the lever front or reverse its still jerks. It also jerks if i start to climb a little hill. Any ideas? Its got plenty of fluid and the belt looks good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #2 Posted July 18, 2008 Make sure you run the engine at full throttle (3200-3400 rpm) at all times. The slower you run the engine, the jerkier the Sundstrands are. Sometimes the jerkiness can also be attributed to the acceleration valves in the pump block. If you haven't changed the oil & filter (or know how long it's been since it was changed) do it immediately. When WH decided to change the hydros from ATF to motor oil, they gave up some of the cleansing properties of the ATF, which helped keep the valves clean and free. Your C is at that age where the hydro unit should really be dissassembled, cleaned, inspected for excess wear, and reassembled with new o-rings, seals, and gaskets. The trouble is trying to find the parts to perform that job. I've been around these for a while now and have gotten pretty used to their strange behaviors. It's not unusual for them to pull the front wheels when they finally decide to move. B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BairleaFarm 339 #3 Posted July 18, 2008 What happens if we go back to ATF? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #4 Posted July 18, 2008 You can't go back to ATF unless you disassemble the entire unit and clean out ALL TRACES of the motor oil. (and vice-versa) (you can't just drain the sump and refill with ATF - the two won't mix.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electro12WH 50 #5 Posted July 19, 2008 You shouldn't mix the two fluids. I have a Hydro Repair maual. It has a trouble shooting chart and directions for tuning up your unit. You probably should get one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerrell 1 #6 Posted July 19, 2008 my c175 was doing the same thing and drained all oil and filters and solved the problem Hey electo12wh ,,,where did you find the hydo repair manual, i have been trying to find one thanks jerry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BairleaFarm 339 #7 Posted July 19, 2008 ,,where did you find the hydo repair manual, i have been trying to find one thanks jerry x2 on the manual. Ill change the fluid this weekend and see if it make any difference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #8 Posted July 19, 2008 Look over the direction control "linkage" and the related parts on the front of the pump housing too, David. Make sure nothing is loose, worn out, or broken/missing. Pay particular attention to the sliding nylon cam plate and the ball on the end of the cam follower arm on the DCL shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BairleaFarm 339 #9 Posted July 19, 2008 It seems the slower the engine the smoother it runs. I hate hydros. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BairleaFarm 339 #10 Posted July 19, 2008 I took it on a mile drive tonight on the sidewalk. It sometimes sppeds up and slows down. Not much but enough I notice it. ??? B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
92Pony 1 #11 Posted July 20, 2008 A side-question on a hydro oil change. I don't know when the last time was the previous owner changed out the hydro oil/filter. Any harm in changing it on out? I know with auto tranny cars I've heard that once to let one go so far, you might as well leave it alone, as changing the fluid will do more harm than good. I guess obviously I'm talking apples and oranges here, but wanted to ask before I did it. Wade Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,130 #12 Posted July 20, 2008 It makes a lot of sense to change it, and be sure to use a Toro filter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bluetuna08 0 #13 Posted July 20, 2008 kinda off topic but sortof evidence for changing fluids... I had a 1995 eagle talon with 134000 miles on it and finally changed the ATF fluid for new stuff. the shifts were better and I got slightly better fuel economy. I am in favor of a change in a car...why would a tractor with a hydro be any different. as for the switching of motor oil to ATF with out a complete tear down and clean and reassemble...well the ATF has a totally different additive package in it than the motor oil. the ATF would actually attack the old motor oil left behind...even the motor oil that had got into gaskets, o-rings, and seals...then your hydro would probably start leaking pretty bad. does anyone know if the o-rings are buenna or viton? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
