kthack657 258 #1 Posted June 11, 2012 So now that my 701 is close to being finished, we have turned to Jim's 701...where we are not restoring this one, we are trying to get his motor running. we rewired the whole thing, got the cables to a known good battery, checked and added fluid, put the choke and throttle cables on, and got them working correctly, and proceeded to add gas, and see how things would go. The motor cranks and has good compression, but there is no spark . We started diagnosing the issue with bad wiring...not that, then we changed the spark plug and wire, still no spark. Then we thought it could be the coil, so we switched that out (3 times) then the condenser (also 3 times) then we checked the points they do work (and changed 2 times) still no spark...both Jim and I are baffled, we have checked the wires and know we have power, but no spark...does anyone know what the problem could be we are at a loss here. Please please please help!!! :thanks: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,961 #2 Posted June 11, 2012 You know the wire from the coil to the plug is good? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #3 Posted June 11, 2012 Do you have power to the coil when cranking? A wrong ignition switch will cause this. Check this with a test light. If you have power when cranking then move the test light to the coil negitive side. Here it should flash as the points open and close. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kthack657 258 #4 Posted June 11, 2012 yes we tried 3 separate ones, and then the one off of my tractor that we know is good...like I said we are so baffled by this as we have no clue why there is no spark, but we have power and everything is working we just want to hear it turn over Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kthack657 258 #5 Posted June 11, 2012 we pulled the cover off of the points and can see them working, but when we put the test light up to the negative side it does not flash, does this means that despite seeing the points open and close that they are bad? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,678 #6 Posted June 11, 2012 Do you have power to the coil when cranking? A wrong ignition switch will cause this. Check this with a test light. If you have power when cranking then move the test light to the coil negitive side. Here it should flash as the points open and close. I agree Jim you can run a jumper wire from the battery to the positive side of the coil for starting purposes Brian 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #7 Posted June 11, 2012 When the points are closed the test light will be out. When the points open the light will be on. If you mean the light stays on that means the points are not making contact. Touch a screw driver to both points ... if it sparks the points are open. Your point gap when open the widest should be .020 ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,678 #8 Posted June 11, 2012 have you tried sanding the points and cleaning them with contact cleaner you can also check continuity through the points when there closed (must be unwired from coil) Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 39,134 #9 Posted June 11, 2012 we pulled the cover off of the points and can see them working, but when we put the test light up to the negative side it does not flash, does this means that despite seeing the points open and close that they are bad? Sounds like the points are staying grounded somehow. Either dirty or not enough gap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #10 Posted June 11, 2012 First test your test light to make sure the bulb is good - negative clip of the light to the battery negative and probe the positive battery terminal - of course the test light should light. Ground the alligator clip of the test light and touch the probe to the coil (+) - it should light - no light means no power to the coil. Next place the ground lead of the test light on the coil negative and the test probe to the coil positive lead. The test light should be on while the points are closed - test light off while points are open. With this wiring arrangement, the test light will "see" what the coil sees - its just wired in parallel to the coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #11 Posted June 11, 2012 kthack657 , do not sand the points. Sanding will leave bits of sand between the points preventing contact. Only clean the points with a point file. Have you made any progress? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,678 #12 Posted June 11, 2012 kthack657 , do not sand the points. Sanding will leave bits of sand between the points preventing contact. Only clean the points with a point file. Have you made any progress? that's what the contact cleaner for(point file will leave small metal chips preventing contact also) Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimt1971 236 #13 Posted June 11, 2012 I will try all the ideas stated Tueday night. I have a company outing I have to work today. Can't wait to drive this ugly 701. We are tryin to bring Karen's fresh restoration and my barn find type 701. If they haven't maybe one year the 701 will be the feature tractor. Karen has been working her butt off on her tractor. Jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kthack657 258 #14 Posted June 11, 2012 Thank you everyone for the advice, they are definately something to try. We were seriously frustrated and this forum has given us a fresh idea on how to bring this diamond in the rough back to life!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
William Chatham 1 #15 Posted June 12, 2012 mabye the gap on tyhe points???? do u have the points and the condenser hooked in to the negative side where there supposed to be? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimt1971 236 #16 Posted June 13, 2012 Do you know what is the best sound ever? It is 2 701's running in the garage. So, yes i did get the second one runnning. I took a set of points that I was playing with and disassembled them and then sanded the points. And then I sprayed them with quick drying contact cleaner. Gapped them once I got them on the tractor and I saw that glorious blue sight. I put the plug back in went and hit the key and poof we had fire. I run it for a few minutes and set the carb. It was a good night. Thank you all for the suggestions. Red Square Rocks! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,961 #17 Posted June 13, 2012 Congratulations for your perseverance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,678 #18 Posted June 13, 2012 :text-bravo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
