Rebuild original k181 engine or replace block

[MarkPalmer 80]

I'm in a dilemma here with my Kohler K181 off a '67 867 that I got from my father in law. With the engine pulled from tractor and torn down, here is what I ran in to:

I originally thought the fuel pump actuator lever broke and went in to the engine breaking the cam, as that is what it looked like from the onset with the intake valve not opening. When I got it opened up, at the bottom of the oil pan was the fuel pump actuator, a broken piece of the oil slinger off the rod, a bunch of aluminum chips which were taken out of the lower part of the piston skirt, and a big piece of twisted steel which I determined on inspection was the lower piece of the dipstick which must have fell in the engine and flung around breaking everything mentioned, including the cam which is broken to the right of the exhaust valve lobe. In other words, this previously well maintained, un-rebuilt engine was effectively trashed probably in a matter of a few minutes by the dipstick breaking. Good news.... the block including the bore, the crank, oil pan, and valves were spared of any damage. I have checked the bore, and I can replace the piston with a standard size with just a cylinder deglasing and the valves, seats, and guides are all OK. It will cost me doing the work myself about $250.00 to get everything I need to get this engine back in to running order.

With that said, would it be cheaper/better to just get a known good running K181 (which I can do for about $150.00-$175.00) and just transfer the engine components I need to use it on the 867? Or stick to rebuilding the original engine, or any other ideas? I would like to keep the engine original, but need to be somewhat practical with this tractor too as I don't want it to be a total money pit.

Thanks!

-Mark-

[sorekiwi 761]

It sounds like you know your way around an engine, and are confident in your ability to rebuild the one you have.

If I was you, I'd go ahead and rebuild the engine you have, rather than gambling on the crap shoot of buying another used engine. You never know what you will find inside the engine you buy.

[Kelly 1,028]

For $250 I would build the orig. engine, you will pay $150+ for a good running engine, and probaly have to at least put a $30 gasket set in it.

[MarkPalmer 80]

Thanks foir the advice, I found a good used cam for a cheap price and decided I will rebuild the original engine. Even if it ends up costing a little more, there is a lot of fun and satisfaction in bringing a dead engine back to life

-Mark-

[Kelly 1,028]

If you need any other used parts let me know, I have a few.

[MarkPalmer 80]

If you need any other used parts let me know, I have a few.

I am looking for a good working used fuel pump for this engine, one of the older metal body ones. Those new plastic pumps Kohler rips everyone off $70 for with the snap-in line fittings don't look like a good idea to me. I got a new piston/rod/ring and gasket kit from a fellow I bought from a few years ago when I rebuilt a KT17, and those parts worked well. Thanks for any help!

-Mark-

[Coadster32 793]

Thanks foir the advice, I found a good used cam for a cheap price and decided I will rebuild the original engine. Even if it ends up costing a little more, there is a lot of fun and satisfaction in bringing a dead engine back to life

-Mark-

Awesome!!! That's what it's all about. As much as I like riding my tractors, it was just as enjoyable to get them to that point.

[MarkPalmer 80]

I bit the bullet and have all the parts ordered. What is sad is that this engine shows almost no measurable signs of wear on the components, it was that well maintained. Stupid dipstick had to fall in and cream everything! I'll post some pix this weekend of the damaged parts and twisted up dipstick, it's kind of funny to look at. Had this been an aluminum block engine, the block no doubt would have had holes poked through it.

-Mark-

[MarkPalmer 80]

Here are some pictures of the carnage:

Cam:

Piston skirt:

Rod cap (minus blown off oil slinger):

The culprit, lower piece of oil dipstick:

-Mark-

[Fordiesel69 233]

The oil deposits shown on those parts really look like the oil was not changed often enough, or the oil was of the wrong API serivce. Example SA was used by mistake.

I have several really worn and abused never rebuilt K series and although sloppy and ready to rattle apart look spotless inside.

Clean it up real well and if the lack of oil slinger put vertical scratches in the bore, make sure to cut it to 0.10 so you do not have blowby / oil consumption.

In my opinion the K181 is not as durable as the 10HP+ K series. Not sure why.