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JamesBe1

D-180 Engine Swap

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JamesBe1

Wasn't sure where to put this update, so I figured that I would start a new thread.

I got the engine from the rescue horse all cleaned up and installed, and am now just stripping and repainting all the parts that I took off along the way. I am getting down to almost the last of them. I think I have the hood and the headlight assy left and I should be done with the tractor proper. In parallel, I am cleaning up the FEL (strip and repaint to varying degrees). Pretty much the whole front end of the tractor was cleaned and repainted. Not the most professional job, but this is going to be a worker, so I am more interested in performance than appearance.

I got the grille stripped and repainted. Here are some before and after shots. Note that it was painted black when I got it, and didn't appear to have any red paint on it whatsoever. I thought that they came from the factory painted red, but I guess not. At least in this case.

After I got it out of my electrolytic derusting tank where it had sat for over a week, the paint pretty much just fell off:

I took it apart and spent a couple of hours cleaning them up the rest of the way with the wire wheel on my bench grinder:

After a couple of coats of rust reformer, I put it back together and hit it with a couple of coats of glossy black.

Here are the final results with it mounted on the tractor:

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wheeledhorseman

I've not seen one with a black grille (until now that is), looks good and in keeping with WH color schemes.

I guess this model is referred to as a 'black grille' then?

Some photos of the whole horse would be nice, even if it's not finished yet.

Keep up the good work James.

Andy

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JamesBe1

I was about to drop my headlight support in the cleaning tank this morning, but after looking at it, there is no rust. The paint is oxidized a bit, but still in great shape. It would be a shame to loose the decal and pinstriping on this piece, so I decided that I an just going to mask them off and add another coat of paint so that it matches the rest of the front end.

My only concern is the headlight bezels. They are a rubber compound, and appear to be showing their age. Also they have a bit of overspray from previous painting jobs.

I was wondering, what would anyone recommend for a good rubber restorer/cleaner to set the clock back on these a bit? Any opinions/suggestions from my learned colleagues?

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Sparky

There is some sort of tire paint that guys here use on old cracked tires. Maybe it could be applied to your headlight bezels? I have no idea who produces it but I think Stevebo does.

Mike..........

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Callen

Spray WD 40 on the paint and rub with scotch-brite till it's gone. Soaking in WD40 will add oil back to the rubber and soften it.

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wheeledhorseman

The headlight support on my 'D' was in remarkably good condition compared with the rest of the tractor which was looking pretty tired so I did the same as you - just masked off the decal and repainted it.

I was surprised how good the rubber bezels were as well - sure they looked tired but there was no cracking just a brownish oxidized surface and some overspray.

For the thicker overspray paint on the rubber I softened it first with a bit of paint stripper on a rag then used acetone on a rag to remove the paint. Whatever solvent you use to clean the rubber acetone / brake cleaner / meths the rag will go black as the oxidized layer is removed. As long as the rubber hasn't started cracking up too much the results can be astonishing.

To preserve the rubber I then used a bit of silicone grease (sparingly) on a rag and rubbed it in. The rubber comes up like new and gains a protective layer that wont turn white (like polish does).

I always try and avoid paints and waxes on rubber as wax deteriorates and paint is difficult to remove if it becomes necessary.

I'm sure we all have different ways of bringing rubber bits back to life but that's my way of doing it.

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JamesBe1

Thanx Andy. Very interesting. I just finished reading various threads from the motorcycle guys about restoring their carb intake boots. They seem to prefer xylene and wintergreen oil. Seems to make them got from really hard rubber to soft pliable rubber like new. Kinda too scared to try soaking my bezels in xylene (or toluene).

Is this the kinda of silicone grease that you are talking about?

http://www.homedepot...2-oz-28953.html

Thinking of silicone grease, I have a few tubes of vacuum grease around. I wonder how that would work.

For some reason, the headlight supports seem to stand up very well. Even the one on my other D is is better shape than the rest of the tractor. If only they could manage to make the rest of the tractor with the same durability . . .

Interesting thread from the motorcycle guys:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=29707.0

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wheeledhorseman

The biker method is pretty much the same idea.

I didn't soak in solvent just put some on a cloth and rubbed the oxidized layer away gently - that way you have control over the process. Give it a try on a bit that doesn't show first e.g. back of the bezel. The cloth will go black - that's the oxidised rubber that's deteriorated coming off. Stop when the rubber looks clean enough. As mentioned in one of the links to threads above most solvents have hazardous warnings - I tend to do this sort of stuff outside in the fresh air.

The silicon grease is indeed the stuff used for greasing washers in plumbing fittings / faucets etc. I chose it because it's colourless and totally impervious to water. Available from most plumbing stores. Needs to be used sparingly a bit like boot polish.

Important not to transfer any via fingers etc onto anything you're about to paint or the paint won't stick.

I've not tried the solvent / wintergreen oil mix but it sounds pretty good. WD-40 works but is only a temporary protective. I use it on my jeeps (pretty much all rubber and paintwork) but after a few weeks in the elements it has pretty much all evaporated and the effect is lost.

Good luck with whatever you try James.

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JamesBe1

A little more tractor porn for my friends.

It's taken over a year and a half, and I feel compelled to say that the knowledge here is exceptional. I would still be banging my head were not for the help of my disfunctional D-Family members. Especially Jeff and Andy, and everyone who shared their knowledge to help me along.

I just have to finish installing the LED lights on the back, and I can say that it is done (until something breaks and I get to take it apart again).

Finally out to move some dirt (really horse manure) around:

(I have to say, that I like the grille much better in black)

Taking a rest after the job is done.

My next project is to do a more ground up resto on my other D. That is, if the matrix doesn't pull me back in. Being laid-off is wonderful on many levels, but sooner or later I have to get back to feeding the banksters.

Since it came with a deck, I might use that for some lawn work. I will have to figure out how to retrofit the laws sweeper from my C-145 or find something that will work.

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wheeledhorseman

Outstanding piece of kit there James, easy to drool over something like that, and yes black does look good on a grille.

Love the photos.

My next project is to do a more ground up resto on my other D. That is, if the matrix doesn't pull me back in. Being laid-off is wonderful on many levels, but sooner or later I have to get back to feeding the banksters.

As the old saying goes 'Make hay while the sun shines.'

Andy

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JamesBe1

Grrrrrr. I had my D-180 out to clean up the pasture. I had used the bucked to push all the horse manure into a big pile, and had a bucketful ready to go down to the other end of the property to the big composting pile. I figured that I would take a shovel and top off the bucket before I set out. I switched off the tractor, and went to get the shovel. When I got back, I realized that it would be easier if I were to lower the bucket a couple of feet. Went to start the tractor, and it wouldn't start. The fuel pump was making the sound it makes when it is starved for fuel (I high pitched clicking sound). I have two fuel filters. One just forward of the seat between the tank and the pump, and one near the engine between the pump and the carb. The first filter (between the tank and pump) had plenty of gas in it, and the second one (between the pump and the carb) was nearly empty with a little gas spurting into it from time to time.

Sometimes the pump would seem to catch and it would make normal pump sounds (a low pitched pumping sound). I tried starting it with various combinations of throttle and choke for about 5 minutes. Nothing doing. There wasn't even the slightest firing of a piston. Also there seemed to be vapor coming out of the mufflers, and I could detect the slightest hint of gas smell in the air. I sprayed some starting fluid in the the carb to see if it would fire, and nothing happened. It wouldn't fire at all. Not even with starting fluid. Hmmmm. There is some gas apparently getting to it, and it won't even start with starting fluid. Just for the heck of it, I pulled the spark plug, and it was dry. I checked for spark, and it was there. Obviously a fuel problem.

There wasn't much I could do in the middle of the pasture with the horse watching and not offering much help. I had to dump the load of manure on the ground and get my old reliable C-120 to tow it back the the shed. I was having a hard time trying to get traction going up the slight hill to the shed, and I decided to try starting the D. Wouldn't you know it, it started right up.

Stupid me, I took the opportunity to take it over to the hydrant to hose off as much manure as I could. After a good hosedown, I tried to start it, and it didn't want to start. I pulled the fuel line off right after the second filter and checked the flow coming out of the filter. Wouldn't you know it, plenty of flow. All over the driveway. I noticed that the plastic outlet of the fuel filter was somewhat squeezed down. I repositioned the fuel line after the squeezed down part, and this time, I didn't apply gorilla force to tighten the hose clamp. I hit the switch, and the fuel filter seemed to fill up nicely, but the pump was intermittently making the starved for fuel sounds. I pulled the fuel line off of the carb inlet, and check the flow. It flowed nicely all over my driveway again, and the fuel filter filled up. I got some carb cleaner, and sprayed some in the carb inlet, but the can was almost empty, so I don't know if it had any effect at all. I reconnected the fuel line, and the pump filled up the fuel filter and made the normal pumping sounds. I tried to start the tractor, and it started up and ran normal.

I took it back to the shed and parked it. I noticed that I had a very loose negative battery connection, so I took the time to fix that properly (it was making sparks from time to time, and I didn't want to work on the fuel system with the possibility of a large spark ruining my day). I tried to start it after that, and it wouldn't start. Same same. Empty fuel filter, and starved for fuel sound. But why does it fill up nicely and sound normal when I disconnect the fuel line from the tractor to check the flow??

I thought perhaps the float bowl might be sticking closed, so I took off the carb and cleaned it with a spare can of carb cleaner that I found. The bowl was full of fuel when I took it off (but it just had a bout of not wanting to start), and there was no water or dirt in the bottom of it. I used carb cleaner and blew out the fuel inlet and whatnot.

I put it all back together and installed the carb. I hit the switch and the filter filled and the pump sounded happy. I figured it was fixed (no such luck). I went and scooped up the big pile of manure I had to dump earlier from the bucket and took it down to the end of the property and dumped it.

I took the tractor back to the shed, and backed it in. I turned it off, and gave it a couple of minutes before trying to start it again. I turned the switch, and the pump started making that high pitched clicking sound. I checked the second filter and it was empty. WTF?

Oh year, I had just recently replaced the gas tank with the one that I just refurbed. It got a new stopcock, paint, and I cleaned and POR-15'd the insides. I waited a week for it to dry before putting any gas in it. I had it out the day before (when I took pictures) to scoop up the composing/manure pile and pile it high. I only ran it for about 15 or 20 minutes, and it had no problems at all.

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wheeledhorseman

Assuming it's not something simple like the temperature's off the scale where you are and it's a fuel vaporisation air lock forming or

that the gas cap vent isn't blocked then it sounds to me as though one or other of the valves in the pump isn't functioning properly. The high speed ticking is where the diaphragm chamber is filling and then emptying again via the inlet valve or pumping and drawing it back again via the outlet valve. Just a thought.

Some fuel pumps can be opened and the valve seats and valve surfaces cleaned - others are sealed for life sadly.

Andy

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JamesBe1

Well, I went to the trouble of replacing the first fuel filter and fuel line from the tank to the filter to the pump. The fuel filter was relatively new, and it looked good from above, but when I took it off, there was a fair amount of black stuff in the bottom of it. It took me a lot longer than expected to replace the fuel line. It was a real pain trying to work around the FEL. An hour later I was covered in grease and gas, but I had it replaced. I had to take the side panel off, and it was troublesome getting it back on again this time. Some days, I have the midas touch in reverse - everything I touch turns to manure.

After it was in, I opened the fuel valve on the tank and went in and cleaned up. Came back about 15 minutes later and the first filter appeared dry. I turned the key, and the pump made the starved for fuel sound. Little spurts of gas were going into the second filter. I took a chance and hit the starter and it started right up. Little spurts of fuel were going into the second filter the whole time. I ran the throttle all the way up and the fuel flow seemed to keep up. I ran it for about five minutes, and finally turned it off. The pump started sounding more normal. I started it a few times, and about ten minutes later, the second filter appeared full. Never had any trouble starting it either.

The first filter still looks relatively empty. However, when I turn the key to accessory, the pump goes right to making the happy sound. I will leave it sit to the morning and see how it goes. Could be that the fuel pump is going bad. If it gives me any more problems, I'll see if I can open it and sort it out.

BTW, my hood doesn't seem to want to shut completely. It hits the old fuel pump on top of the engine. I tried moving the fuel pump to different positions, but the divider in the hood still seems to just barely hit it.

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JamesBe1

I finally got a Purolator Facet 04SV fuel pump to install. Luckily, I have two fuel filters, one near the carb, and one just forward of the seat. I removed the fuel filter near the seat and installed the pump there. Boy did I get lucky. There was already one hole in the side panel, so I only had to drill one extra mounting hole. The wires from the old fuel pump reached down to where the new pump was installed. I didn't even have to cut out any fuel hose since I just removed the fuel filter by the seat.

As soon as I hit the key, it started priming itself. I checked the fuel filter by the carb, and it wasn't really filling much at all. I removed the old fuel pump from the line, and luckily, I didn't have to add or remove any fuel line as the fuel filter by the carb reached the line that I disconnected from the old fuel pump inlet.

I hit the switch again, and the fuel filter started filling up right away. Works perfect! I guess the old fuel pump was bad.

Also, I have to give credit to Jeff (Hodge71) for posting pics showing a great place to mount the new fuel pump. I'll post a picture or two later.

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"Manic-Mechanic"

So, not to beat a "dead horse", but did you ever actually replace this engine?

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