Stator/coil

[bo dawg 478]

I am still stuck on this stator coil thing I bought the new coil, that mounts on the post of the stator, from OPE Engines. It will not fit on the post is bigger than the hole that runs through the coil. OPE said that its the only coil for that stator and should fit, but I tryed forcing it on, and it is not going to work

I dont know what else to do other than sending it back, but my tractor is still down

Thanks

bo dawg

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Is it the exact same coil as the old one? There are several different size armatures, but none of them should be that hard to get the coil on if it is the correct coil.

Did you ever have this tractor running prior to the ignition loss?

You can convert it to battery ignition like Kelly said in your other post.

You'll need a 12V internal resistor ignition coil, a condenser for battery ignition, an ignition switch for battery ignition, (or a toggle switch) and some basic wiring skills.

If you decide to do this conversion, we can get you through it. It might save you some future headaches - unless the stator ends up being bad too.

[bo dawg 478]

Yeah it used to run great after I got it, but then later started being more difficult to get started up. Then a time after that she wouldnt keep charge and would have to jump start it when I needed it.

Untill last when there was nothing, no fire at all, and found the rectifier was burnt. And then thats when I started talking to you guys and you know the rest of the story

The coil for most part, looks like the same, just the center hole is a tad smaller.

How expensive is it to convert over?

Thanks

bo

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

If the stator is good and you can find another 10 amp R/R, you can convert to battery ignition for $50 or less - depending on whether you buy all new parts, or buy used parts. All you need is a 12V battery ignition coil, corresponding condenser, and a toggle switch. (an inline 15 or 20 amp fuse is a good idea too)

If the stator is bad, I recommend changing over to a 15 amp system. You'll need to change the bearing plate, stator, flywheel, and R/R. These parts are on ebay frequently and can sometimes be bought cheap.

You really can't test the stator output unless you get the engine running, so you'll have to get the coil, etc. and we can "help" you get it installed so you can test charging system.

[bo dawg 478]

Alright, I appreciate the help, I need it.

1 question though...what is a R/R? I'm not very good at the electrical, and probably not thinking clear.

Thanks

bo

[Rollerman 290]

R/R...Rectifier/Regulator. B)

[bo dawg 478]

Got it!

That makes sence :imstupid:

bo dawg

[bo dawg 478]

If the stator is good and you can find another 10 amp R/R, you can convert to battery ignition for $50 or less - depending on whether you buy all new parts, or buy used parts. All you need is a 12V battery ignition coil, corresponding condenser, and a toggle switch. (an inline 15 or 20 amp fuse is a good idea too)

If the stator is bad, I recommend changing over to a 15 amp system. You'll need to change the bearing plate, stator, flywheel, and R/R. These parts are on ebay frequently and can sometimes be bought cheap.

You really can't test the stator output unless you get the engine running, so you'll have to get the coil, etc. and we can "help" you get it installed so you can test charging system.

Hey TT, if I put the old stator back on and switch over to battery ign 12v coil and condensor, I don't need to have the old coil that mounts on the stator for any reason?

How exactly do I have to add a toggle switch to make it work with old ign.

Thanks B)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Nope.... you can throw the old magneto coil in the trash!

If you want to use the original ignition switch, you'll need to install a toggle switch to control the battery ignition coil. (I also recommend installing an indicator light in the dash just a reminder that the switch is turned on. )

Hook one terminal of a SPST switch up to the positive battery terminal. (or where the cable is connected to the ignition switch) I use an inline fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse for circuit protection. Run a wire from the other terminal on the switch to the positive terminal on the ignition coil. Install a correct bat ign condenser, hook the points wire and condenser lead to the negative terminal on the coil, and it ought to run. :horseplay:

[bo dawg 478]

Thanks TT I will take this and run with it and shop around. I will keep my eye open also for a ign switch for battery ign to do it right. But I am getting impatient and want this running asap, so the toggle switch sounds quicker.

Thats why I rather try to get it to run verus trying to get that k341st I picked up, I think it will take longer to get it going and switched out . I'll keep it for a winter project. B)