WH854 44 #26 Posted April 14, 2012 WH854 If you look at the top of the clutch you will see that it is much closer to the bail than the bottom. That spring pushes the clutch away from the disk and onto the brake. A forum member who knows much more than I says get rid of it. Apparently they break and ruin the needle bearings I don't think that is the spring he is talking about Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 121 #27 Posted April 14, 2012 I thought he was talking about the one inside the crankshaft Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH854 44 #28 Posted April 14, 2012 I thought he was talking about the one inside the crankshaft I don't think you have a spring inside of your PTO bell you have the newer type PTO the spring the guys are talking about is on your engagement Rod. Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwgdog66 23 #29 Posted April 14, 2012 What Kelly said. Here is a picture of my 75 C-160. The front bolt that holds the top of the "Hoop" has a spacer that lets it pivot some to line everything up. Here's a silly question. What does that little spring accomplish? My 160 doesn have one and the PTO works fine. I've seen them before and can't figure out what it's supposed to do. I know I'm getting old,but not that old! It does keep it from rattling I think it helps keep the PTO handle engaged on ruff terrain. I don't have one on my C-100, and have hit some ruff patches in the lawn and the blades have disengaged. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwgdog66 23 #30 Posted April 14, 2012 Sorry this took so long. The head on picture shows the oil pan. It's still red. The previous owner said the motor is a fairly recent short block which is why the block is gray. The red part looks bigger than any Kohler I have ever seen. Less clear is the side view, but it's fairly apparent that the bail is not centered on the clutch. Fortunately I have the means to move the bail if you guys think that will solve the problem. Same tractor different problem. I ran it out of gas the other day. Shortly there after it would not start. Good spark, and fuel is coming from the pump. In the past this has been a carb problem so I rebuilt the carb. Unfortunately, the local Kohler dealer steered me wrong on the carb kit P/N and it came with the wrong needle. I reused the old one and am not anticipating a problem but I am wondering if the carb from a K301 will work? I would guess that the jets are smaller producing less power but my grass is going to need mowing soon so I may have to try it. I am going to post this as a separate topic but while I am here I thought I would add the question. Thanks again Randy Randy that looks about right to me. It seems like mine isn't centered exactly either. I can take a few better pics this weekend. The carb from K301 should fit. If it is a Kohler (Carter) there are some numbers stamped inside the carb. I have #30 carbs on my K341 and my K241. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 121 #31 Posted April 14, 2012 There was a spring. Small compression spring to force the bell against the brake I guess I forgot to mention the reason I am concerned about the location of the yoke is because when I engage the clutch the yoke hits it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #32 Posted April 15, 2012 it is not the correct loop, it is a better one because all you have to do is pull the pin and drop the latch down and swing the loop away to take a belt off or on. i have a couple of tractors with this loop on and have tried to put it on others but ran into the same problem as you have now. if you have the means to lower the mounting pin with out making the loop weak i'd have a go at it. the other option is to replace it like i'd said i like that style loop. you don't have to pull the pin out of the trununion . to remove the belt or install, just my 2 cents worth eric Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 121 #33 Posted April 23, 2012 Well.. it works now. I drilled a new hole for the pin 1/2 inch below the old hole. Whats interesting is that the original hole was in the wrong place for this application. I do not understand that. You will notice that the diameter of the 2 bails is the same. I wonder why 2 locations? The picture is before I moved the silver bail down to match the red one. FYI the silver paint is NAPA's paint for alloy wheels. Much better than the red Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #34 Posted April 23, 2012 the rod was replaced some were along the way. different motors used different rods. i would have to go look at some of mine to see which tractor and motor used which rod. i want to modify some rods to put on several of mine that don't use the flip loop rod. like i said before all you have to do is pull the pin and flip down the loop to remove the belt eric Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
