onan p216 oil pressure switch wiring

[ericj 1,578]

i thought i had my onans wiring figured out...... but i transferred a p216 from a 89 416-8 to a 91 416-H. now ,y problem with out tearing a good motor apart i need to figure out were to mount the back wire with round loop on, on a 416 onan use's a single terminal oil pressure switch were as the 520 uses a double pole switch. the wiring harness has a black and a blur wire for the oil switch. the motors i checked have the blue wire going to the switch but i don't know were to put the black wire. i did check the 416-8 frame and found not all of the pin in the 9 pin connector are used. but that still don't tell me were to put the black wire.the other 416's that i have and check have the black wire going with the blue wire down towards the oil switch. i might have to just pull the shroud of a complete motor. don't really want to do that though if somebody could help me out. thanks

eric

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Eric, there should be no need to pull the tins off. Let me check the wiring guides and I'll get back to you. My initial look at the 2 pole swtich representation in the schematic is a little confusing. It doesn't jive with the written circuit descriptions.

Do you have an ohmmeter? We can verify this without taking the covers off. The engine has to be able to run to produce oil pressure to check the switch function.

[smoreau 658]

When I transplanted a Kohler 18 magnum in my 520 I used a onen 20hp oil pressure switch. One wire is for the light and the other is for the hour meter ground. This was for a 1990 520H. Are you trying to make it operate with the onen 16 sensors?

[ericj 1,578]

save old iron, yes i have a ohmmeter, my 520 that i worked on had a 2 pole switch with a n/c and n/o marked terminal one is for start and one is for run from what i seen, not sure if this is correct or not.

smoreau, yes i am trying to use the single oil pressure switch if possible or other wise i'll have to buy one of the 2 pole switches

eric

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Sorry Eric, I dropped the ball on this one, forgot about it completely. First, we need to see how the oil indication light responds on your particular indicator board. As you said, "Pin 9" on the indicator board may not actually be the 9th pin from the start of the row of pins. We may need to rely on the color of the wire on the connector to call out which pin is actually receiving the signal from the harness. On the schematic diagram, I see a dark blue wire (looks like pin 12 on the connector).

The low oil pressure condition should cause the one wire sender terminal to be grounded. Sufficient oil pressure to trigger the sender should allow the terminal to become disconnected from ground. With this logic, grounding the dark blue on the indicator board connector should cause the low oil pressure light to turn on. No connection to the dark blue wire should allow the low oil pressure light to extinquish. You can confirm this with a simple jumper wire to ground and touch the dark blue wire on pin 12?. With pin 12? grounded, the oil pressure light should come on. If that all checks out, wire the dark blue wire at the engine to the oil sender.

The "left over" black wire from the two terminal oil sender can be wired directly to ground. The only differnence will be the hour meter is now capable of clocking time if the ignition key is left in the run position.

If you want the hour meter to not clock time with the key left in RUN, I can come up with a quick DPDT relay circuit to allow both functions to be present on the tractor. A relay may run $5 - $7 vs big $$$$ for the two terminal pressure switch.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

[ericj 1,578]

i just found your reply and it is to late to try and check tonight any more and tomorrow don't look good, but the first chance i get i'll check it out. i know when the wires go through the 9 pin connector they change colors. right now the blue wire is on the oil switch, i had the black wire grounded, don't ask, i was getting spark around the engine tin were i grounded the wire and the tractor would start but not charge. after removing the wire it now charges but won't start with the key, i have to jump it at the starter. i'll check it out and get back to you as soon as possible thanks for,your help

eric

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

The first thing I would confirm is the black wire that sparks actually goes back to the (-) lead of the hourmeter. Grounding that wire should not cause any issues with the charge circuit.