seth0804 5 #1 Posted March 20, 2012 Hello I am starting a new topic. My 16hp kohler is leaking oil from the little shaft on the crankshaft side. Is this common and what can be done to stop it from leaking oil out of it when it is running? Is the oil overfull. and how much oil does the eninge hold? or does it depend on the base the engine have on it. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 178 #2 Posted March 20, 2012 Is it the governor shaft? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #4 Posted March 20, 2012 Are you talking about the shaft that is in between the pto end of the crank and the points cover, on the flat machined face of the block? About 1/2 inch diameter? That is the camshaft pin. A pic or two would help.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #5 Posted March 20, 2012 I will try to get a pic this afternoon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #6 Posted March 20, 2012 it is the shaft that is near the points, which is the camshaft right? how do you fix that? can't get the pic uploaded Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #7 Posted March 20, 2012 are you talking about number 1 or 2? if its number 1..... you would need to work out why its leaking. that hole is home to a pin that holds the camshaft in place. the pin goes all the way across the block to a hole in the other side. the pin is a tight fit on the pto end (the side that youre seeing) and a light to loose fit on the bearing plate side of the engine. the pin is installed from the bearing plate side. maybe the pin is loose in there and oil is getting past. or when somebody installed that pin last time it was driven in hard or from the wrong side and has damaged or cracked the block.. you need to do some closer investigation. and if its number 2, either the rod that actuates the points is worn or the block where it passes through is worn. the rod is still available.... pn. 4741104-s about $8.00 thru napa. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #8 Posted March 20, 2012 it is number 1 and i will take a closer look at it to see what is going on there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #9 Posted March 20, 2012 I have a chance to pick up another kohler 16hp engine for $75.00, it is a kohler command, should i pick that one up as well? It was off a leaf vac and the guy says he took off the impeller with heat and now it is has a light knock, he thinks he messed up a bearing... that does not seem likely, I think the knock was their and you could not hear it with the leaf vac noise??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #10 Posted March 21, 2012 not sure of the command if they are similar to the k series or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 178 #11 Posted March 21, 2012 A command is a completely different engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,193 #12 Posted March 21, 2012 When the engine turns over the shaft that is pressed into hole #1 should not move. I found one once where the camshaft pin was turning in the block, that would cause a big leak and destroy the engine if happened too long.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #13 Posted March 21, 2012 it does spin, how do you stop it from spinning? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,193 #14 Posted March 21, 2012 There are a lot of variables here so no guarantees. First off do you have a Kohler Service manual and are you comfortable opening up and tearing down the engine?? Has this motor been worked on??? The pin you see is fixed in place by a press fit. The camshaft itself is a hollow tube that surrounds the pin, it turns the pin doesn't. The pin is actually somewhat hard so if there is wear it is most likely the cast iron block has worn (or is cracked). I fixed mine by getting a used pin and dimpling the end with a punch. (If you have access to a machine shop having the end (last 1/2 " or so) knurled would be even better. That makes the shaft bigger and more likely to fit tightly in the block. I also used red loctite and some sealer on the end of the shaft . Has worked OK for a year or so now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #15 Posted March 21, 2012 I have minor experience with tearing down an engine, I am wondering if I should pick up that kolher command 16hp engine and try to rebuilt the one I have and put the kohler command in my tractor now? What do you think of the kohler command, it is for sale for $75.00 obo the seller says it has a light knock though? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,193 #16 Posted March 21, 2012 I know nothing about commands. Crankshaft length is very important with WHs (They use longer ones than most other makes) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #17 Posted March 21, 2012 Like a previous reply said i think the command is a different engine. This isn't really all that difficult a job. With a bit of patience you could do it without too much disassembly. And there's always us to help along the way. If you can get it broke down to just get access to the other end of the pin to allow it to be removed you could possibly replace the shaft with a slightly smaller pin or rod as you are driving out the one in the block. That would support the cam while you prepare the end of the shaft to reinstall. Might need to remove the oil pan to make it a little easier. Leave the valve train alone and the crank and camshaft in there. There's probably a few other things to watch out for, maybe some other opinions on whether this is doable. Can't see why not as long as the camshaft is kept in place, valves are closed, and you don't move the camshaft as the pin is being removed and replaced by the temporary pin. I'm almost sure that I would try without removing the pan and do it with the engine on the tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,193 #18 Posted March 21, 2012 Like a previous reply said i think the command is a different engine. This isn't really all that difficult a job. With a bit of patience you could do it without too much disassembly. And there's always us to help along the way. If you can get it broke down to just get access to the other end of the pin to allow it to be removed you could possibly replace the shaft with a slightly smaller pin or rod as you are driving out the one in the block. That would support the cam while you prepare the end of the shaft to reinstall. Might need to remove the oil pan to make it a little easier. Leave the valve train alone and the crank and camshaft in there. There's probably a few other things to watch out for, maybe some other opinions on whether this is doable. Can't see why not as long as the camshaft is kept in place, valves are closed, and you don't move the camshaft as the pin is being removed and replaced by the temporary pin. I'm almost sure that I would try without removing the pan and do it with the engine on the tractor. I would think that the camshaft spacers might slip during this process.Then you would have to try to get them realigned or they may fall to the oil pan. He really needs to see inside if the block around the pin is badly cracked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #19 Posted March 21, 2012 no I am misstaken the engine is a kohler magnum 16hp, is that the same as the k series Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 178 #20 Posted March 21, 2012 Almost identical. The sheet metal is different, the flywheel is different and the ignition system is different, otherwise it's basically the same engine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #21 Posted March 21, 2012 Ok thanks I need to post some pics on my reaction! correction I need to post some pics OF my reaction Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #22 Posted March 21, 2012 Like a previous reply said i think the command is a different engine. This isn't really all that difficult a job. With a bit of patience you could do it without too much disassembly. And there's always us to help along the way. If you can get it broke down to just get access to the other end of the pin to allow it to be removed you could possibly replace the shaft with a slightly smaller pin or rod as you are driving out the one in the block. That would support the cam while you prepare the end of the shaft to reinstall. Might need to remove the oil pan to make it a little easier. Leave the valve train alone and the crank and camshaft in there. There's probably a few other things to watch out for, maybe some other opinions on whether this is doable. Can't see why not as long as the camshaft is kept in place, valves are closed, and you don't move the camshaft as the pin is being removed and replaced by the temporary pin. I'm almost sure that I would try without removing the pan and do it with the engine on the tractor. I would think that the camshaft spacers might slip during this process.Then you would have to try to get them realigned or they may fall to the oil pan. He really needs to see inside if the block around the pin is badly cracked. yeah paul, the camshaft end spacer would be a concern if your not familiar with where it is..... probably better to remove the sump and check out the back of the block in that area, too. no I am misstaken the engine is a kohler magnum 16hp, is that the same as the k series you could use the magnum until you get the k going again. thats if it lasts. you did say it had a knock and that is a concern. depending on where the knock is, you could stick a hole in that engine before you get much use out of it. if it were me i would be checking out that engine internally before using it. a bit of time spent here could save the engine. if you can do without the tractor, i would work on the k engine first. if you are lucky it might be a quick fix, you dont really know for sure until you get into it. i would probably get the magnum as well, but i would work out whats causing it to knock before using it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #23 Posted March 22, 2012 the magnum will work(beware of slight knock though)but you will have to do some wiring mods,the ignition is differentand there would be more issues too,but it can be done and guys here have done it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
