c161rat 185 #1 Posted March 1, 2012 Should my axle be flush with the hub????? should there be exposed axle on either side of the hub????? Is there supposed to be a spacer?????............Both sides look the same.....I noticed there was play in the back wheels and re adjusted the hub and this is what i ended up with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,328 #2 Posted March 1, 2012 You should have a squared headed locking screw with a nut on it to lock it down or the back of your hub. It should be very noticeable. It locks down on the key and keeps the hub from sliding back and forth. Clean all the old oil and grease off the back of the hub and look for the hole it should be in or maybe even though I never seen this, look to see if some how it has gotten sheared off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH Raider10 17 #3 Posted March 1, 2012 Joe! Get out there and fix that Wheel Horse! It makes me cry... LOL The outside of your hub should be aligned with the outside of your axle. You can fix it by taking out the set screws that hold the key in place of the hub and pull it of with a hub puller. Then align and put the set screws back in. You better do this before it ruins your body and seal from the axle. P-J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c161rat 185 #4 Posted March 1, 2012 You should have a squared headed locking screw with a nut on it to lock it down or the back of your hub. It should be very noticeable. It locks down on the key and keeps the hub from sliding back and forth. Clean all the old oil and grease off the back of the hub and look for the hole it should be in or maybe even though I never seen this, look to see if some how it has gotten sheared off. The locking bolt is still there and functional. When I set the hubs I pushed them in all the way. I am wondering if i shouldnt have done that. Is there supposed to be exposed axle between the hub and transaxle or is there supposed to be a spacer in between the hub and transaxle???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #5 Posted March 1, 2012 Not an expert on thus, but everything I've read indicates the axle should be flush with the outer side of the hub, leaving a few inches (how much depends on the model) of exposed axle between the tranny case and the inner surface of the hub.Some in-and-out play of the axles from the tranny case is normal (up to about 1/8" or so). It's sideways/up-down play that usually indicates something is wrong - either a worn out hub or a bad bearing. Duff EDIT: Looks like a bunch of us were typing at the same time! :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c161rat 185 #6 Posted March 1, 2012 Joe! Get out there and fix that Wheel Horse! It makes me cry... LOL The outside of your hub should be aligned with the outside of your axle. You can fix it by taking out the set screws that hold the key in place of the hub and pull it of with a hub puller. Then align and put the set screws back in. You better do this before it ruins your body and seal from the axle. P-J PJ Thanks for the kick in the a#@ for motivation....LOL. When I reset the hubs i never even looked at the hubs. They were so loose that I just assumed that they should be flush with the transaxle. I guess i need to re adjust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #7 Posted March 1, 2012 yup, end of axle should be flush with hub. In order to fix this there are numerous ways... Firstly take the set screw out and drill the centre again to make it sharp and the reseat. If that doesn't work then look where it keys on the axle and file a flat for it to sit in (this is my preferred) Finally the way most people fix is to drill a hole 90 deg offset in the hub to the original, then tap it out and add another set screw. Some models had two set screws per hub as standard - well my GT14 does. It seems the cleaner and oilier the axle the more likely this is to happen - maybe a sign that oil seals are shot anyway... mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c161rat 185 #8 Posted March 1, 2012 yup, end of axle should be flush with hub. In order to fix this there are numerous ways... Firstly take the set screw out and drill the centre again to make it sharp and the reseat. If that doesn't work then look where it keys on the axle and file a flat for it to sit in (this is my preferred) Finally the way most people fix is to drill a hole 90 deg offset in the hub to the original, then tap it out and add another set screw. Some models had two set screws per hub as standard - well my GT14 does. It seems the cleaner and oilier the axle the more likely this is to happen - maybe a sign that oil seals are shot anyway... mark Transaxle shaft seals have been seeping for some time.....I just consider it undercoating...LOL...this is my worker and cant afford for it to be down for any length of time to repair the seeping seals.. I just keep an eye on the oil level and add accordingly...Plus it reminds me of my Harley...always marking its territory with oil wherever it goes...LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #9 Posted March 1, 2012 At least you dont have to worry about rust when they're dumping oil. :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lars 526 #10 Posted March 1, 2012 Just like a H........ :laughing-rofl: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #11 Posted March 1, 2012 btw my hub seals are fine, but despite a new gasket the tranny leaks on the join.... So I know what you mean when you say marking its territitory! :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,934 #12 Posted March 1, 2012 If you can get the hubs off easily, the seals are inexpensive and easy to replace. They are Toro part number 100443 or from NAPA C/R 11050. You don't have to take the tranny apart to replace them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c161rat 185 #13 Posted March 1, 2012 If you can get the hubs off easily, the seals are inexpensive and easy to replace. They are Toro part number 100443 or from NAPA C/R 11050. You don't have to take the tranny apart to replace them. You dont have to take the tranny apart?????? My hubs are well lubricated and come off easily.......the seal is external?????? This is for my C145.....is there a process diagram available???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #14 Posted March 1, 2012 Joe, looks like you have the longer axles in that transmission. The 5085 trans axles are about an 1" longer then the regular 5025 transmissions. I think those longer axles take a longer hub. I think I would just make it flush to the outside end and tighten her up. It will not hurt anything...if you wanted to put some washers on the inside go ahead, but do not make it too tight...should have about 18" play in the axle. What tractor is this.?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,175 #15 Posted March 1, 2012 If you can get the hubs off easily, the seals are inexpensive and easy to replace. They are Toro part number 100443 or from NAPA C/R 11050. You don't have to take the tranny apart to replace them. You dont have to take the tranny apart?????? My hubs are well lubricated and come off easily.......the seal is external?????? This is for my C145.....is there a process diagram available???? Borrow on Ice Pick from some mafia friend. Remove teh hubs use a hammer to drive the ice pick into the seal and pry abit. the seal will come out. Put some tap over any rough spots on yur axle and on the keyway then push the new seal on replace the hubs and you are done. the hard part is always getting the hubs off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,934 #16 Posted March 1, 2012 If it's an 8-speed, those are still the correct seals for the C-145 (1-1/8" axle). If it's an automatic, the seals are different. Yes, they are external. There are several threads on removing and installing seals. With the hubs off, you can take a small screw driver or dental pick and hook the seal and pull it out. After you have cleaned the axle, the new seals are lubricated and slid back on the the axle, and tapped carefully into the housing. Care needs to be taken to be sure that no burrs, rust or dirt is on the axle. I will see if I can find a good thread which fully explains the process. A word of auction on punching into the seal. Be careful not to punch to far or too hard. You don't want to damage the bearing that sits behind it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c161rat 185 #17 Posted March 1, 2012 Joe, looks like you have the longer axles in that transmission. The 5085 trans axles are about an 1" longer then the regular 5025 transmissions. I think those longer axles take a longer hub. I think I would just make it flush to the outside end and tighten her up. It will not hurt anything...if you wanted to put some washers on the inside go ahead, but do not make it too tight...should have about 18" play in the axle. What tractor is this.?? Steve, This is my C145......I am fairly confident that the hubs are original.....they were in very good shape and the keyway was not worn at all.......I may try the washer idea just for good measure.......probably gonna wait till the seals start leaking more before i replace them...they are really only seeping.....and it keeps the hubs lubricated and easy to get off and on....LOL........BTW how did your surgery go??????? If you can get the hubs off easily, the seals are inexpensive and easy to replace. They are Toro part number 100443 or from NAPA C/R 11050. You don't have to take the tranny apart to replace them. You dont have to take the tranny apart?????? My hubs are well lubricated and come off easily.......the seal is external?????? This is for my C145.....is there a process diagram available???? Borrow on Ice Pick from some mafia friend. Remove teh hubs use a hammer to drive the ice pick into the seal and pry abit. the seal will come out. Put some tap over any rough spots on yur axle and on the keyway then push the new seal on replace the hubs and you are done. the hard part is always getting the hubs off. How did you know I have mafia friends??????? LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whc160 74 #18 Posted March 2, 2012 This is how I fix this problem. If the hub is moving I pull it off. Then if the hub doesn't have the 2nd hole at 90 degrees I drill & tap it. Next remove the key & old seal. Then clean the axle shaft & hub. Once the hub slides freely on the axle I wrap the axle with wax paper & put the new seal on. Use the hub then to drive the seal in the housing. Install a new key if needed. Next coat the end of the axle with red locktite were the hub sets & slide the hub on till the end of the axle is flush with the front of the hub. Install 2 new set screws with blue locktite on them. After doing this I have never had a hub come loose again. I have had to remove the hubs after I have locktited them on. Put the puller on & put a little heat on the hub to loosen up the locktite then they come off. Hope this helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c161rat 185 #19 Posted March 2, 2012 This is how I fix this problem. If the hub is moving I pull it off. Then if the hub doesn't have the 2nd hole at 90 degrees I drill & tap it. Next remove the key & old seal. Then clean the axle shaft & hub. Once the hub slides freely on the axle I wrap the axle with wax paper & put the new seal on. Use the hub then to drive the seal in the housing. Install a new key if needed. Next coat the end of the axle with red locktite were the hub sets & slide the hub on till the end of the axle is flush with the front of the hub. Install 2 new set screws with blue locktite on them. After doing this I have never had a hub come loose again. I have had to remove the hubs after I have locktited them on. Put the puller on & put a little heat on the hub to loosen up the locktite then they come off. Hope this helps. Mike, thanks for the info. Tapping the hub sounds like an easy fix. I am however worried about marring the axle and making the hub harder to remove for future repairs. Any thoughts?????? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whc160 74 #20 Posted March 2, 2012 All of the newer hubs have the two set screws to help them hold better. The screw that goes against the axle does marr it a little bit. Leaves a little round mark from the end of the screw. The last one I did I rolled the lip on the seal & it did leak. (Did not have any wax paper.) So I had to pull the hub back off. Just used the puller & a little heat. It came right off. My Dad's hubs came loose & wore the key way slots in the axles. I fixed them using jb weld, a trick I learned from my local dealer. Don't like doing this, but it is better than taking the trans apart to put new axles in. So when i put the hubs on I want to make sure they don't come loose & wear the axles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
608KEB 794 #21 Posted January 3, 2013 I also check the set screws and hubs 2-3 times a year. Make sure they remain tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
