Noob needs help with belt change, please

[kevinopp 0]

our '93 (?, Model 3112K802, SN# 1030892) 312-8 with 249 original hours on it that we're rejuvenating has popped it's belt that goes from the motor to the (front/midmount?) wheels and then around the 3 wheels on the cutting deck.

i had been mowing 15 acres weekly with a commerical ZRT Skag that had a lever that slid the wheel to one side so it was easy to replace a belt, but i don't see what "loosens" the wheels anywhere to get a new belt in.

additionally, i need to know what's the correct belt model. we've got a good Toro mower shop that can order anything, but i'm looking here first to see what i can learn.

should i do this, or should a call the house-call tractor repair guy, let him do it, and just learn that way while shelling out a few more bucks?

thanks,

kevin

(i can attach pix if need be, but y'all probably know just what i'm asking about)

[kevinopp 0]

some pertinent info--

rear discharge 42" deck with 2 blades.

hard to read, but i think the model #'s are 1542RC01/13067 SN# 9128

found this on an older post---does it sound correct?

The 42" rear discharge deck uses

Drive belt 108834 Toro, 6898 Gates 1/2"x98", 4L980W Napa 1/2"x98", 248-098 Stens 1/2"x98"

but i still need some assembly help.....

[Duff 206]

Hi, Kevin, and welcome to Red Square!

By "wheels" I'm assuming you mean the pulleys or sheaves the belt rides on. At the front of the tractor, attached to the frame and facing forward, is the "mule drive" which is actually the belt tensioner. It's got two pulleys with a guard over them; the belt rides on these to change direction from the horizontal drive shaft of the engine to the vertical orientation of the spindles on the mower deck. On the front of the device is a knurled knob about 1-1/2" in diameter. You turn this knob to increase/decrease tension on the belt. From memory I can't tell you whether clockwise is tighter or looser, but if you start turning it you'll get then idea. To remove the belt from the deck you need to loosen the belt tensioner to allow the belt to slip off the pulleys.

Unfortunately my tractors are in winter storage so I can't check to see how to properly route the belt for a 42" deck, but I'm sure someone here will jump in and offer that instruction. Replacing the belt with a new one is a process - not difficult, but it does require removing a few things like the hoop that provides tension to the PTO clutch, and the belt guard on the mule drive. If I have time later this afternoon Ill try to serarch for a thread that describes this process. If the belt you have has only jumped off and is not broken or badly worn, you may only need to slip it back on the pulleys and tension it with the mule drive. The belt should be snug but not overly tight, as too tight puts stress on the bearings of both the spindles on the deck and the pulleys on the mule drive.

Hope this helps, and glad to have you aboard!

~Duff

Edit: Here's one thread to give you some ideas:

...and another:

(TT: If you see this post, any chance you can reload the pix from your original response to the thread just above? They've disappeared. Tks!)

[CRE1992 135]

The wheels you speak of are actually pulleys and the belt is not hard to put on. I have to go take a final now (I am in college), or I would gladly explain to you how to put it on. I am sure other members will have no problem talking you through i.

-Charles

[tunahead72 2,350]

Kevin,

Welcome aboard!

Duff's post should help you understand what has to be done. The adjustment knob turns clockwise to loosen, and counterclockwise to tighten the mower drive belt.

In addition to the links that he gave you, there's also a manual in the Documents section here that might help -- it's from an earlier version of these mowers, but it's close enough:

http://www.wheelhors...tions-810403r1/

Give it a shot, and feel free to fire away with any questions you might have. :handgestures-thumbup:

[kevinopp 0]

wow, you guys are great! thank you much for your help---it's spot on and helps a lot after i read many threads all over today but you guys put me right on the photos. i read Duff's threads and i was wondering already how i would tell the V pulley from the flat idler, but tuna's photos helped me see it exactly.

i'm definitely going to give this a go, but can someone just confirm for me that the new belt model that i have listed above

The 42" rear discharge deck uses

Drive belt 108834 Toro, 6898 Gates 1/2"x98", 4L980W Napa 1/2"x98", 248-098 Stens 1/2"x98"

is the correct belt? i'm seeing it on ebay for about $22 for the Toro model (which is definitely worth the extra money from what i've read). i haven't called my local shop yet, but i'd honestly prefer not to give them my business if i can help it. it's quite a story how i got this mower to begin with, but anyway i had a major break at the end of the steering shaft and the repair work was, well, not a friendly situation. but i'm definitely willing to give this a go and learn a little something in the process.

i'll post some pictures tomorrow if i can----she's pretty!

[tunahead72 2,350]

Kevin,

Looks like you're on the right track here. Keep in mind, you shouldn't have to actually remove the deck from underneath the tractor to replace or reattach the mower drive belt. Different story if you have to replace the spindle belt, unless there's a trick I don't know about.

The correct Toro drive belt for the 15-42RC01 mower is 108834. I didn't check your cross-references, but I'm one of those guys who usually sticks with the Toro belts -- I've had problems over the years with some aftermarket belts, but the Toros have always worked well and lasted a long time. Others have had different experiences, your choice.

Be very careful when you order parts. If you want Toro, make sure that's what you're actually getting. Some of the eBay guys (and even some dealers and online suppliers) are a little loose with their descriptions and photos -- even if you ask them a question you won't always get a direct and clear answer.

By the way, I believe your 31-12K802 model number makes this a 1991 model.

Have fun!

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

(TT: If you see this post, any chance you can reload the pix from your original response to the thread just above? They've disappeared. Tks!)

Done. :thumbs2:

[tunahead72 2,350]

Kevin,

One more point...

In the first link that Duff gave you ("How to remove a mower deck"), you won't ordinarily have to remove the mule drive (step 4). Karl (nylyon) only removed his because he intended to install a plow after the deck was removed. My Wheel Horses are used almost exclusively for mowing, and I think in the 27 years I've owned one, between them all I've removed a mule drive exactly once.

[Duff 206]

Kevin,

One more point...

In the first link that Duff gave you ("How to remove a mower deck"), you won't ordinarily have to remove the mule drive (step 4). Karl (nylyon) only removed his because he intended to install a plow after the deck was removed. My Wheel Horses are used almost exclusively for mowing, and I think in the 27 years I've owned one, between them all I've removed a mule drive exactly once.

Good catch, Ed! I just take mine off so that I don't have to disassemble it to get the belt off for the winter. Personal preference, I guess....

Cheers!

~Duff

[can whlvr 991]

i too only take the mule drive apart to change the belt once in a while,its easier to just push the lever and pop her off

[kevinopp 0]

GOT IT!

i received the belt yesterday from my local dealer to make sure i received the Toro. my only trouble was figuring out how to remove the rod over the PTO to get the belt around the inside pulley, but i eventually saw the light. also, i apparently don't have the spacer between the outside mule drive pulley and the gaurd, so i improvised with a hose clamp.

this mower is new to us---we may have used it 5x total. and i know for sure that the fellow that fixed it up for us apparently left the belt (or placed it himself) around the small outside PTO pulley. which completely explains why there was way too much slack in the belt and the blades would bog down when we hit any high or wet grass. not near enough power on that small pulley!

so, the blades are spinning hard and fast---you can feel the difference just when sitting on the mower. thank you all so much; for $30 i fixed it and learned a lot.

so now my next question (which should probaby be a new thread) is that when stopped to change gears, there is a 10-20 second lag between when the clutch lifts and the mower starts to inch forward, faster and faster. w/ or w/o the mule drive on; that doesn't matter. so any ideas there, easy/difficult fix, etc.?

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,879]

Your clutch pedal is pulled back by a spring but there is also a small gas cylinder under the fender pan that prevents the clutch from coming up to fast and the tractor doing a wheelie. If it was me I would find the cylinder and remove it and control the clutch pedal return speed with your foot just like we all do with standard tranny cars/trucks.. It is a replaceable part if you think you need it.

Mike.......

[kevinopp 0]

replaceable like a new one may work better than what i currently have, or like the existing one will be ruined by removing it?

and can you (cough) describe where the fender pan is?

[tunahead72 2,350]

GOT IT!

... also, i apparently don't have the spacer between the outside mule drive pulley and the gaurd, so i improvised with a hose clamp ...

... so now my next question (which should probaby be a new thread) is that when stopped to change gears, there is a 10-20 second lag between when the clutch lifts and the mower starts to inch forward, faster and faster. w/ or w/o the mule drive on; that doesn't matter. so any ideas there, easy/difficult fix, etc.?

Congratulations!

You do know there's supposed to be two spacers on the mule drive shaft, right? One between the pulleys, and the other one you say is missing between the outer pulley and the guard. One's shorter than the other, and right now I can't remember which one goes where, but I know Terry (TT) posted that information in another thread somewhere....

And ditto to what Mike (Sparky) said about the clutch cylinder/shock. I'm not familiar with that setup, but it was discussed here recently, you may just need to replace your return spring and may be able to leave the cylinder alone:

Some other possibilities if that doesn't solve your problem:

[kevinopp 0]

the spacer between the pulleys is definitely the shorter of the two. i've seen the larger outside spacer in diagrams; i paid attention to it b/c when i was futilely trying to save the belt before it shredded, i had removed the cover, and tightened it back on too tight, thereby locking the pulleys completely and destroying whatever integrity the belt still had until that moment.

[kevinopp 0]

after reading those links, it seems like that worn and shiny drive belt that heats and grabs after 20 seconds or so feels like the problem to me. what's replacing that all about?