1973 18 auto help...Wont start/Run

[Rooster 191]

I was kidding about the coil...if it bit you...it works!

[tunahead72 2,347]

To be honest , carbs scare the hell outta me ... I can say it does need an idle adjustment cuz it wont run with the throttle all the way down.

Fear not the carb. It's like anything else mechanical -- take your time, think about what you're doing, be careful, watch what happens when you move something, take photos, all the usual stuff.

Bob (Trouty56) mentioned the manuals in the Documents section here. Section 4 of the service manual has a good description of the carb and how to adjust it properly. The idle speed should be easy to adjust (clockwise to increase speed if I remember correctly, you should see the throttle open a bit as you turn the screw). You might also try adjusting the mixture screw(s) while you're at it, at least to get them to their "initial" settings -- heck, you might even knock a piece of dirt loose that will make it run smoother, stranger things have happened.

And if you decide to take the carb apart and give it a thorough cleaning, the service manual also has full instructions for that.

As far as the fuel pump, have you tried checking its output by disconnecting the fuel line where it goes into the carb and trying to crank the engine? You should get a noticeable stream of gas. And forgive me if you already mentioned this, I just missed it.

By the way, your inline filter won't necessarily stay completely full even if the pump is working well. The filters on both of my machines tend to stay about half full, and they run fine, don't know why that is exactly.

And finally, I'm not saying with any of this that the fuel system is definitely the problem, just that it's possibly a part of it. The guys who are suggesting electrical issues could well be right, I'm just not educated enough about that to give you any useful guidance.

Good luck, you'll get it! :handgestures-thumbup:

[Hodge71 663]

Ed,

I did disconnect the pump at the fuel fitler which is before the carb and there isnt a drop of gas that comes out of it when its on and clicking away. Thats why I'm thinking that its the first part of the problem. I set up my IV of gas yesterday before my Masons lodge meeting and it started and ran until the bottle was empty so another reason to think its the pump. I will get into the manual section on here today and print that K482 manual out for future reference

[tunahead72 2,347]

I did disconnect the pump at the fuel fitler which is before the carb and there isnt a drop of gas that comes out of it when its on and clicking away.

Jeff, I think you're on the right track here, but just to clarify -- did you disconnect the line BETWEEN the pump and the carb? Is your filter in that section? I'm not real familiar with the K482 setup, but I don't know where you would have space to install a filter in that section of line. Or am I reading this wrong? Maybe a picture would help if you get a chance.

For that matter, are you certain you're getting fuel to the inlet side of the pump? These pumps can be a little difficult to prime initially, maybe you have air in the line somewhere?

I haven't looked closely at the service manual, you'll probably find some useful information about the fuel pump in there as well.

The parts manual is also in Documents, and may help you identify the "proper" Kohler part number, but it's more complicated to read. In a very early section of the parts manual, there should be a chart that lists "variation numbers" for each engine system and spec. number. You'll use that variation number to identify the exact part you need (your spec should be 35209B if you still have the original engine on this tractor, check the label on the engine to make sure). Keep in mind, the variation numbers are not the same from one system of the engine to another.

[Hodge71 663]

Ed, It doesnt have the factory prump on it. That pump apparently went bad at some point and was replaced with an electric pump. I did disconnect the line after the pump but before the filter. There is tons of fuel coming out of the line BEFORE the pump, but the pump doesnt move the fuel from that point up to the filter and carb.

[Rooster 191]

Have you tried just Gravity feeding it?

[Hodge71 663]

Ed,

I did disconnect the pump at the fuel fitler which is before the carb and there isnt a drop of gas that comes out of it when its on and clicking away. Thats why I'm thinking that its the first part of the problem. I set up my IV of gas yesterday before my Masons lodge meeting and it started and ran until the bottle was empty so another reason to think its the pump. I will get into the manual section on here today and print that K482 manual out for future reference

So answer is yes it runs by gravity. Just frustrating to be dealing with all this crap. The tractor was misreperesented from the beginning. I was told it started and ran just needed the lines from the pump to the hydro, and came with most of the 3 point hitch. Went to pick it up, fully knowing about the hydro issue and when I went to start it, ooops the battery is dead, sorry. So now I'm into this thing for close to another hundred bucks between, filters, lines and now a new electric fuel pump. I can see I'm going to be rebuilding the carb because of the conditiion of the entire fuel system. None of the lights work, the wiring is deplorable. The plow/grader blade that came with it is destroyed, needs a cutting edge and a complete rebuild plus it came with none of the proper handles and rods to be able to adjust it from the seat....and after finding a complete breakdown of all the parts needed for a three point, I have found that I need to spend about $400 for the parts to complete this one because there was less than a quarter of the parts, not most of the parts like I was told. I learned a very valuable lesson here....never trust anybody. If it seems bad, its time to start negotiating the price lower. I feel like a **** for paying $600 for this.

[Rooster 191]

Make Lemonade my Friend...

Chalk it up as an expensive lesson learned, and maybe get some value out of knowing you shared it with us all, and others can learn.

Your misfortune will hopefully help someone else!

"It runs, but the battery is dead so I cannot start it right now...." Is an old and common trick on tractors and such.

An old buyers adage;" If you did not hear it run and see it move, you are buying something that does not run and will not move!

What I have always done in this case is one of two things.

Tell the seller to put a new battery in it, if that makes it run then you pay for the tractor and the new battery. (this is the preferred method)

Other option I have used, I go get a new battery and put it in before buying it.

Either way, I am going to have to buy a battery for it once I purchase the tractor any way...so no real loss.

If I buy a battery and the tractor does not run...I have only spent the cost of a new battery...which I am keeping anyways....instead of several hundred or more.

If the seller refuses to put a battery in it, or let you put one in it, Simply tell them you will not pay for something you cannot hear run and walk away from the deal!

Always assume the worst and be happy when it is not!

[Rooster 191]

....and after finding a complete breakdown of all the parts needed for a three point, I have found that I need to spend about $400 for the parts to complete this one because there was less than a quarter of the parts, not most of the parts like I was told....

Another lesson....research what you are buying BEFORE you pay for it.

Hope this doesn't wreak of "rubbing it in"...I am sorry you were taken advantage of. When things like this happen they are not good for anyone, the seller, buyer or the Hobby!

If I can do anything to help you with this tractor please let me know.

Would be happy to rebuild that carb for you if you really think you cannot handle it.

Hopefully in the end you can salvage a good experience and get some enjoyment from this tractor.

[baerpath 517]

I'm really getting tired of this poor me stuff. I have battery chargers and jump packs real easy to start it when it was here. I offered to buy it back and cover anything he's bought back in the beginning. He bought it Sunday I talked to him Monday But thats just no fun, It ran fine in Sept when we blew the hyd line, The tank probobly got stirred up on the three hour trailer trip. I've offered again to drive down and pick it up this Saturday So we'll see what happens. Thats all I can do

Duane Moot

baerpath

[Trouty56 565]

I got my d for 500 2 years ago and it ran backwards when the lever was pushed forward. No gas tank...broken steering wheel...every tire was different....no blade....smoked like a fiend....no 3 pt.....no pto...seat was nonexistent.....needed painted.....came with a mower that needed redone and no snow blade at all.

Put close a 1000 into it and it is my favorite tractor. Had a blast getting it fixed. Just about every one of us put new fuel lines, a filter, and rebuilds the carb on just about every one we get. I didn't know how to rebuild a carb but do now. I never opened an engine before but rebuilt the 482 in my D-180. D's aren't cheap to get. Sounds like all you really need is a fuel pump....maybe. The real meat of this thing is the drivetrain. The engine can be redone. Parts can be fixed and welded. Look at it as learning not an obstacle.

[Hodge71 663]

Duane,

I appreciate the offer to buy it back. I couldnt sell it back to you for price plus parts. I have too much into it now and I really do like the tractor. I just made some mistakes with our deal by not hearing it run and I should have checked the box of 3 point parts to see there wanst enough in it. The carb is off it now and torn apart for a clean and rebuild plus I got a complete 3 point for and 27 inch industrial tread tires for the back for $400.That would be around $1300. I also have the plow torn apart to install new rods and rebush the holes to stop the wobble it has. This is my valuable lesson learned.