Hydro Warm Up

[MalMac 1,328]

I like many on here have a couple of 520's and like many have to wait for them to warm up to move. To my this is no big problem. I have been around big equipment all my life and proper warm up and cool down was always standard rule here on the farm. Now my question is I have kept seeing post about the 520's that won't move or hydraulics that wont work I just have not seen or have missed post as to why? Is there some sort of protection device in there or some design flaw? I am not too bad of shade tree mechanic but my knowledge of the hydro Eaton 1100 is limited. Just wondering why they won't even function when cold. :confusion-shrug:

[smoreau 658]

Cold thick oil does not want to flow. I have one with dextron in it and it moves and lifts right away. I still let it run for a few min. before working it, but the oil is just too thick to flow correctly through the system. It warms up in the pump quite fast when you start sheering the oil, so after a few min. it is thin enough to operate the system.

[AMC RULES 36,945]

Humm, knock on wood. To my knowledge, I don't have that problem, and my 520 lives in an unheated shed through the NY winters. Like you though, I always do the standard warm up, and cool down procedure, so maybe I'm just not aware this issue exists.

[MalMac 1,328]

I understand about the cold thick oil issue. With temps only down in the low 20's and 10w30 in there you would not think the oil was too thick. If temps still in the 20's and 10w30 or 10w40 is too thick, I would think it is some design problem. Yes you still should let them warm up but not get any function at all just seems well something is just not right. I don't know maybe it's just me. In all reality it's no big deal. I let them warm up regardless, I was just curious why no function at all.

[squonk 38,962]

When I know snows coming and it's going to be cold I plug in an magnetic block heater and stick it to the bottom of the transmission. I use another one on my Power Kings hyd tank.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200339105_200339105

[Hodge71 663]

My Dad has a 73 12 auto with a Sundstrand, and I have a 416 with an Eaton 1100. Neither one of them have ever been "warmed up" for their entire life and function completely the same at 15 as they do at 85 degrees. On the 12 auto, choke on, start the tractor, choke off...out the shed door, my 416 is outside all year round. I'm kinda lost here with why there would be no motion at all. It sounds like it could be a different issue

[Hydro 130]

I live in Central Ontario. I remember starting my 416H on winter day and other than the engine starting up it would not do a thing. I had no clue what was wrong. I went throught manual and found the warm up warning. I also note Wheel Horse recommends nothing lighter than a 10W-30 for the hydro. I have had two single Kohlers and both have the drive belt disengage mechanism for cold starts because of the extra load presumably on the starter trying to turn the cold hydro. I do not know why this is only on the Kohlers but by 312 had it and so does my 314. This winter because I am going to snow blow I have decided to use 5W-30 in my hydro just to get that hydro working sooner. The manual that had the warm up warning not to move the tractor otherwise serious damge could occur was for my 92 416H. I was really worried I had damaged something as I kept pushing and pulling the motion lever and could figure out why nothing was working. It workedfine after about 10 minutes.

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,121]

My 416-H is sluggish on a cold day but it will move even when very cold (but it doesn't like it), now the lift will not operate until it is warmed up a little bit. It's been this way since new. The C-160 is a better cold weather operator, although I don't use it in the winter, it does seem to function properly when cold.

[ce318 13]

It was 12 deg, here in Central Oregon this morning. My 418a was kept out side last night. I just changed the oil to 10-30 Synthetic oil and replaced the filter. I started the tractor with trans dis-engaged and ran it for 3 or 4 minutes, then engaged the trans and let it run at 1/2 throttle for 3 or 4 min while I loaded the trailer with 3 110lb alfalfa bales and drove off with no problems. I personally believe all equipment should warm up on cold start. On my old for truck on cold mornings I start it then shift the transfer case into neutral and put the trans in 2nd gear and and let it warm up for 10 minutes. My father inlaw said they did this on the pipeline in Alaska so they got little damage to components. so I pretty much do the same thing whether it is my JD 4630, WH or the old F250 4x4. Just thought I would comment. Good day to all. Chris

[can whlvr 991]

i think warming up is important too,but i have a 1975 c160 auto that will operate immediatly as soon a sthe choke is pushed in,including the lift and no whining or abnormal sounds,i just acuired a 1990 312 hydro with the 1100 eaton and no belt tensioner,im curios to see how it will be,it has atf fluid not 10w30

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

AMSOIL just recently brought out a 5W-30 hydraulic oil. They recommend it for all types of tractors. I am currently using Wheel Horse's recommendation of 10W-30 with Mobil 1 10W-30 motor oil in my 518xi's Eaton 1100. But I am considering switching to the AMSOIL 5W-30 hydraulic oil, especially with winter coming and plowing. Any thoughts on using the 5W-30?

[Hydro 130]

I am doing it this year but I have no previous experience with it as I have only used 10w-30 and used my tractors for mowing in the past. I did do a cold start once in the middle of our winter just to run my 416H. As stated earlier in this post the engine ran but the tractor would not move. I can't see why 5w-30 would not work more suitably for winter use. The 30W should be okay for mowing too I would think. I'm curious whether Wheel Horse actually investigated lighter weight oils for use in the hydro in their latter years. Had I known Amzoil was available in 5W-30 I would certainly have used that. I ran Amzoil in the '70's and it was an excellent product.

[sorekiwi 761]

I personally believe all equipment should warm up on cold start. On my old for truck on cold mornings I start it then shift the transfer case into neutral and put the trans in 2nd gear and and let it warm up for 10 minutes. My father inlaw said they did this on the pipeline in Alaska so they got little damage to components. so I pretty much do the same thing whether it is my JD 4630, WH or the old F250 4x4.

:handgestures-thumbupright:

[Hydro 130]

I agree a warm up is always necssary but what is happening internally when things are running and the oil is too thick to flow?

[ce318 13]

I look at this way, you have two choices on this topic. Let's use the transmission and transfer case as an example. 1st choice get in warm up engine and drive off. In this case the oil has done nothing but set until you started driving. 2nd choice When the engine is started and the transfer case is in nuetral and transmission is in gear the vehicle does not move, however the internal workings are now moving at idle speed but not under load as if driven cold. After about 10 minutes the transmission and transfercase are now lubed enough to drive with the cases being lubed. There is much more to it, but this is a short version and I dont type the quick.

[MalMac 1,328]

There has been a lot of good replies to this topic. It seems that most everyone is agreeing the cause for the non-function of the hydro is do to thick cold oil. Some of you are trying to overcome this by using a thinner oil. I myself witched to a synthetic oil. I did see a big improvement over using the conventional oil. The improvement was in performance and not the cold issues that seem to effect the Eaton 1100. MY question is still this even with thinner oils what keeps the oil from getting to where it's supposed to go? Common since should tell you that if the oil is not making where it needs to go then something not getting proper lube. Maybe I am all wet here and most certainly do not understand the internal workings of the Eaton 1100. I think we are all hitting around the cause for the cold weather problems I still am not seeing the reason as to why. Maybe a call to an Eaton tech is in order. Guess I will have to put that on my to do list right after I get done with the honey do list, which never seems to have an end?