69 Work Horse

[nwh1-0475 0]

I have a 69 Work Horse with the H70 Tecumsi in it. It will run for about 25 min. then shut down. A guy I know told me that it was the coil. I have a coil off of a 10 hp Kohler, will this coil work on the H70? I was just going to do that so I didn't have to buy another.

Thanks, Dustin.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

The H70 Tecumseh should have a magneto ignition. (generates the spark by magnetism through a wound coil on an armature - produced by the magnets inside the flywheel.) There are a few magneto coils that interchange between Kohler and Tecumseh, but you can't use the battery ignition coil without some major changes. (I haven't done it YET, but will someday. )

All of the ignition components are contained under the flywheel on the Tecumseh, and it actually sounds like it needs a new condenser to me.

[nwh1-0475 0]

Then I guess I am confused because I put a new one on it, along with a plug. What direction do I need to go now?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

If you remove the flywheel, you should see something like this under there:

This is the coil removed from the armature:

There is a possibilty that the coil could be having heat-induced failure, but check a few other things first.

Make sure the fuel line is routed away from any heat source and that the cap is venting properly on the tank.

The next time you run it and it "dies", check to see if the spark plug is firing. (as quickly as possible.) You need to rule out each individual possibility before you can accurately diagnose the source of the problem. :whistle:

[Teddy da Bear 11]

Sounds a lot like the trouble I am having with "unlucky #7". The only difference is that mine will run for a couple of hours before slowing down.

And my engine feels "HOT". Even the gas tank is hot and that really worries me.

[BPjunk 184]

OK OK and where were you guys during the tech session at the show ???? Hummmmm I may have to take roll call next year.

The first thing I would do is to see if the ignition does cut out after a period of time by installing a spark checker ..... just to make sure there is no problem in the fuel system.

One of the common problems with the Tecumseh mid frame series engine is the ignition wires rubbing on the flywheel. This will make the wires short out and could cause the problem your exspeariancing.

Another problem with the H-60 (or HH-60, H-70) in a 1968 or newer model Wheel Horse is the exhaust, the front exiting exhaust will actuly be restricted by the air flow when the tractor is going forward that it will cause a vapor lock in the fuel system. Check to see if you have a deflector on the muffler so the exhaust exits out to the right.

Wild Bill in Richmond, Va.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

OK OK and where were you guys during the tech session at the show ???? Hummmmm I may have to take roll call next year.

I think I was putting the new throttle cable, points, and condenser on Doc's B-80 about that time.

Somewhere in the midst of the last 15,000 posts we covered the wire rubbing under the flywheel syndrome too. (I can't find it with out a bloodhound. )

[HorseFixer 2,012]

OK OK and where were you guys during the tech session at the show ???? Hummmmm I may have to take roll call next year.

Bill they had me there covering the RedSquare Group if you Recall I was there, and If You Don't Believe Me You Had Your White Burt Reynolds Smokey And The Bandit Pants On <<< That's What MJ Calls Um! So see I was there!

Duke

[nwh1-0475 0]

The wires under the flywheel have been fixed when I replaced the points and condenser. If I may ask what is a spark checker? The muffler does exit the right side of the motor and the fuel line is routed in front of the fly wheel cover, I don't think it is getting to hot. If I can find a spark checker I will install it and see if that is the problem.

Thanks, Dustin

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

You can get spark checkers form Harbor Freight or most similar places. It goes in series with the spark plug wire and has a neon bulb that flashes for each spark.

These are especially nice when you have an intermittent problem that could be the spark. :whistle:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Those neon things are commonly referred to as "sparkies". It's really tough to accurately tell how strong the spark is with one of theose.

This is one version of a REAL spark tester:

Briggs & Stratton also has P/N 19368 which works on any engine with a spark plug.

You can get them through any Briggs dealer, or they are also available online. (naturally ) B & S 19368 spark tester link

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

The first thing I would do is to see if the ignition does cut out after a period of time by installing a spark checker ..... just to make sure there is no problem in the fuel system.

FYI

You can get these at harbor freight or a number of other places.

You connect it inline with the spark plug wire and a neon bulb flashes. If it stops flashing you no longer have a spark.

Really nice for intermittent problems as it allows you to rule out (or rule in) spark problems :whistle:

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Here's what the cheap one looks like... you can pick them up at any discount tool store for about $2.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I used to have one that looked like a regular test light (screwdriver or awl style) that was a self-powered ("AAA" battery) inductive type. All you had to do was hook the ground clip to the engine and touch the tip to the plug wire.