Can I use this block?

[dodge78 90]

It is a K341 that chewed up a rod. Can I use this or should I find another block?

[Coadster32 793]

If the crack on what you're showing is the bottom of the block, then maybe. If it's the top, I'd say definatly no.

[dodge78 90]

its at the bottom.

[kingfisher 0]

As long as the rings dont come near the crack

[wooley12 0]

Any ideas about why the rod let go?

[Rooster 191]

You can see where the score marks go past the cracks...you would need to re-sleeve that block to use it.

Looking through your photobucket I see aluyminum galded on the crank...that smells of an oiling issue. Looks like rod seized on the crank pin.

[shorts 182]

use it, the dipper broke off of the rod cap and everything went south from there. clean the aluminun off the rod journal and then have it miced to see if it needs to be turned undersize, bore the block only enough to clean it up and do a complete valve job starting with new guides.

[Rooster 191]

What is going to happen when the rings get into that broken cylinder wall?

[shorts 182]

the rings don't/won't, that is the bottom of the cylinder and only the piston skirt will touck there, with piston and cylinder being round they are fully self supporting and the forces oon the skirt from rocking as it change from down to up are minimal as their is practically no pressure on the piston due to the valves being cracked open.

Ive got a k301 with a larger chunk missing out of it that was rebuilt 10 years ago and is still swinging a 60'' deck on a commercial toro that cuts 3 acres every week.

[Rooster 191]

the rings don't/won't, that is the bottom of the cylinder and only the piston skirt will touck there, with piston and cylinder being round they are fully self supporting and the forces oon the skirt from rocking as it change from down to up are minimal as their is practically no pressure on the piston due to the valves being cracked open.

Ive got a k301 with a larger chunk missing out of it that was rebuilt 10 years ago and is still swinging a 60'' deck on a commercial toro that cuts 3 acres every week.

Thanks!

Good to know!

[shorts 182]

look close at the second picture, you can see the rough casting of the inside of the crankcase (dark area), the fine horizontal machining marks are the cross hatch from the honing process and the vertical marks are from foriegn material,(probably carbon from combustion byproducts) that got splashed up between the piston skirt and cylinder wall in normal operation(splash oiled by a dipper on the rod cap). If you were able to see farther up the cylinder you would see where the piston rings have seated in and smoothed/polished the crosss hatch pattern from honing, closer inspection of the ring wear at the either end of the stroke will show where the torsion or twist of the rings reversed when the piston stoped and reversed direction

[Dave79 0]

For what it is worth... I think you will be fine. I blew my c-120 up in the same way. The dipper broke starved the bearing and broke the rod. My block and crank looked the same as yours but with the cracked piece broken off. I cleaned the crank carefully with emory cloth and put a new piston, rings, and rod in. That was 5 years ago with regular use and I have had no problems yet.

[dodge78 90]

Well I finally gone here, the site just did not want to load.

Anyway. The rings will not get near the portion of the wall. The broken part is about 3/8 inch up the bore. The rings are about 1 1/2" up in the bore. The main concern is the piston rubbing on the broken part of the bore, but I think this is on the down stroke side but I will have to double check.

A couple of suggestions from work were 1: heat up the broken part bend it back and put some JB weld on it 2: finish taking the piece out, give it a quick file on the "new" edge and run it. I am thinking finish the break and file it.

I checked the oil before I started it and it was good, so either the dipstick is wrong or my brother cant drive ( he was on it when it happened, its kind of fun blaming him for it). When I bought the tractor, the engine was disassembled and the crank looked the same way so that might be a sign. The rebuild had around 50 hours on it.

[Deere Hunter 54]

You will be fine with reusing the block. Pullers take way more than that out of the cyl wall when clearencing the block for a longer stroke. Just make sure you get in there with a die grinder and take the sharp edges off so it doesnt catch the piston skirt.

I'm sure you caught it but I noticed in the one pic your gonna need a new crank gear. Its missing half a tooth, some debris must of got in there. Look the cam gear over to, its probably has a tooth or two messed up also.

[wooley12 0]

Muriatic acid swabbed on the crank pin will vaporize the aluminum right off. Then a mild polish with super fine wet/dry sandpaper.

[Jim_M 178]

The engine on my pulling tractor has a much bigger chunk cut out of it for rod clearance and it runs just fine. :thumbs2:

[dodge78 90]

How should I get the broken part out ? It will wiggle a very little bit with a visegrips and I tried a punch. Just start grinding?

[shorts 182]

Hammer and punch, prydriver, large channellocks, what ever works, if you use a grinder or die grinder with a carbide burr be careful thatm you don't end up eating the big pieces or doing more damage to the block.

[wheelhorse656 20]

This happend to my k181 this spring and it has a few little chips at the bottem of the cylinder they were about 1/8th inch long. I asked the guy at the machine shoip when i took the block in last tuesday and he said he has rebuilt ones that have had bigger chunks taken out of then and said its fine as long as the rings dont get near the crack. good luck! :thumbs2:

[dodge78 90]

Here is what I did.

cut a slot with a dremel and popped it out

[url=http://s589.photobucket.com/albums/ss337/dopowa78/?action=view

[shorts 182]

use it, the crack is still in the in skirt part of the cylinder.

[305 380]

i wonder if you could stop drill that crack?