nylyon-(Admin) 7,880 #1 Posted September 1, 2011 I'll be getting my 7000 watt or better generator very soon. For now because of cost, I'll run extension cords to the items I want to power like the refrigerator and TV... the important things. But a thought what if I put in a 200A manual transfer switch. In the event of a power failure, go to the main panel and shut off the circuits that I won't need (washer, dryer, oven etc) and turn on one or 2 that I would use, fridge, water pump, living room lights.... then throw the transfer switch to generator. Would that work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #2 Posted September 1, 2011 That would be the easiest way in my opinion, you only have to mess with the main power between the meter and main breaker panel, use an outdoor rated disconnect right next to the meter enclosure to minimize wiring. their should be room in the bottom of the transfer switch enclosure for a generator recepticle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #3 Posted September 1, 2011 I put a manual transfer switch in a few years ago. When you actually use it, you don't have the throw the main off. It's actually illegal to "backfeed" a generator, (at least in CT). If a linesman gets whacked, they'll be looking for it, and you'd better have it. Installing it was actually alot eisier than I thought. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 23,138 #4 Posted September 1, 2011 I put a 200 amp manual transfer switch in my house when I built it 14 years ago and it was almost $400! Its huge, almost the same size as my 200 amp 42 circuit panel and a bit of a pain to put in an existing home. Then came the "Gentran" which was still expensive but easier and less expensive in labor to install. It was a small 6 or 8 or 10 or 12 circuit switch box that gets mounted next to your main panel and you have to pick which circuits you want on it and then your stuck with what you have choosen. Nowadays this is all the rage http://www.apelectric.com/InterLock-Manual...-Kits-s/383.htm . These are a legal way to install a generator hookup in your home and are much less expensive than the other two methods I mentioned. Plus with this setup you are throwing the whole circuit breaker panel on generator power so you can have whatever you want on in the house at any time while on gen power. The idea with this setup is that it forces you to shut off the main breaker to be able to turn on the generator breaker and vise-versa. Idiot proof!! Mike.......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,880 #5 Posted September 2, 2011 Interesting setup and certainly less expensive. I have a service disconnect in the garage so I would think that it wouldn't be all that difficult to install the gentran either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #6 Posted September 2, 2011 If you have a main breaker on your panel go to interlockkits.com. They have inexpensive inter locks available for any panel. It won't work if you have a seperate srrvice disconnect. A 200amp transfer switch is a waste on a 10k genie, its only 40amp max output. I've installed several generac type transfer switches with 6 -12 ckts. Its a.straight forward installation. However hands down the interlock kit is easier and less exspensive. If you're unsure as to exactly what your doing PLEASE how an electrician. I'm in the process of looking for keyed interlocks for use at home. I have an exterior svc disconnect and can't go with the interlock kit. I have the interlock kit at the vacation house and love it! The real beauty of the interlock kit its that you can use anything in your house. You just need to remember that you're on a genie. The generac type switches force you to pick and choose what you'll use in the house. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #7 Posted September 3, 2011 There is a GenerLink that lets you connect right at the meter base plus its an auto switch so no back feeding the power line. http://www.generlink.com/about_generlink.cfm# Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #8 Posted September 3, 2011 There is a GenerLink that lets you connect right at the meter base plus its an auto switch so no back feeding the power line. http://www.generlink.com/about_generlink.cfm# Wow!!!! This is the first I've heard of that. I like it!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #9 Posted September 3, 2011 Wow!!!! This is the first I've heard of that. I like it!!!!! X2 :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #10 Posted September 5, 2011 I have 320A service on my garage into 2 200A discomnnects, 1 for the house and 1 for the garage, I'm looking at a Ronk 400A manual disconnect to put at the meter. I figure that I will need to go out to start the genset anyhow and when the right deal comes along I'll install a liquid cooled 1800rpm standby power setup on natural gas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 558 #11 Posted September 6, 2011 Wouldn't it be a whole lot less expensive to install a two-pole 30 amp breaker in your panel and wire it to a 50 amp twist lock outlet in the garage or some other convenient location? I say the garage because that is where I have one installed, as well as an extension cord specifically for the generator which has the appropriate ends for the generator and the outlet. That way I can sit the generator just outside the garage door (out of most if the weather) and run the relatively short cord into the garage. The feed line from outlet to breaker panel is the same Gage as an electric range. Your local codes may vary. I always leave the "Generator" circuit breaker in the off position (and that is indicated inthe panels legend) when not in use. When the power goes out, all you would need to do is shut off the main breaker at the power panel, go outside and start the generator, plug the 240 VAC outlet from the generator into the special outlet you installed, then go back to your main panel and close the 30 amp "Generator" breaker at the panel. Now the entire house has power. All that other fancy stuff is wonderful, but certainly overkill for a system that will be used, at best, a few times a year. Just my 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 994 #12 Posted September 6, 2011 what mike has is exactly what i thought i would do,i have a 6500 watt gennie and thought about doing that set up ,just wonder if its legal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #13 Posted September 6, 2011 I'll be getting my 7000 watt or better generator very soon. For now because of cost, I'll run extension cords to the items I want to power like the refrigerator and TV... the important things. But a thought what if I put in a 200A manual transfer switch. In the event of a power failure, go to the main panel and shut off the circuits that I won't need (washer, dryer, oven etc) and turn on one or 2 that I would use, fridge, water pump, living room lights.... then throw the transfer switch to generator. Would that work? heres what you want to get.Its called a interlock kit for 60 bucks and a 30 amp breaker for 30 bucks and it will run your 200 amp panel and it takes about an hours to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 23,138 #14 Posted September 6, 2011 ,just wonder if its legal Not even close to legal, and if someone forgets to shut off the main you (the homeowner) are liable for anything that happens to the lineman out on the pole trying to do his job and get the power back up. Lets say its your wifes doing the start up with the generator cause your not home and she forgets to shut off the main. Now what? What Mike suggested is one of the worse ways to hook a generator to a house and is not acceptable nor does it meet code in any of the 50 states. Mike....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 558 #15 Posted September 6, 2011 Sparky's comments are correct, as I explained it initially, but ... it's quite legal, and just as safe, when one of these is installed at the breaker panel: http://www.interlockkit.com/intro2.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #16 Posted September 6, 2011 I've had a Generac manual transfer switch panel for a while now like 15 years. It only has 6 breakers, 2 of which double up for the water pump, and it has been very nice on the few occasions we were out of power (once for 4 days). It runs 2 fridges, a freezer, the furnace, one set of strategic outlets and the water pump. I have a gas water heater so we have hot water also. There is an outlet outside the house to plug the generator into. Flip the switches on one at a time to avoid the initial overload and all runs well. I even have a backup generator...lol. My wife hates when the power goes out so it is OK to spend money for these things. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #17 Posted September 6, 2011 If yopu're not willing to absolutely, positively make sure that your generator can not backfeed the meter and power grid you stand the risk of donating everything that you have or ever will have to pay for someone elses injury or life. Just because you or I might want to take a shortcut and save a few bucks doesn't mean that someone else won't unknowingly backfeed the grid with your illegal hookup under the "just being helpful/neighborly'' act of powering up your house while you are away or preoccupied with some other component of the power outage/disaster. Either interlock power feeds or use individual extension cords to the end appliances/plugs. Unfortunately I'm powered by the eastcoast/greatlakes power grid that hasn't been adequatly modernized in over 50 years, contrary to all of the publicity and propaganda, going back to before the y2k scare the power grid is fragile and overworked. I'm trying to get my part of the system to the point that when they have a major problem I can remain relatively unaffected and self sufficient. If the cost of properly preparing for a power outage looks expensive compare it to the cost of a freezer full of food, a house full of frozen pipes, a basement full of water, or the health of someone with elderly kinfolk that they are responsable for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 558 #18 Posted September 6, 2011 As I clarified in my previous post, I cannot close the generator breaker without opening the main, and cannot close the main until the generator is opened. You are both absolutely correct that you cannot legally introduce a generator into your system without first insuring back-feed cannot happen. Lives depend on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #19 Posted September 6, 2011 I think that you will find that technically your interlok works, but legally you cannot feed the panel after the main breaker. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #20 Posted September 9, 2011 I think that you will find that technically your interlok works, but legally you cannot feed the panel after the main breaker. Wrong... As per NEC code you can use a mechanical interlocking device to back feed a panel. The interlocking device, when properly installed requires that the incoming/commercial power be mechanically disconnected before the back up power source can be applied. Hence the term Interlock. Cutler Hammer and I believe Square-D offer these devices through their distributors. I used a kit from interlockkit.com. I've been very happy with it. My wife was at the lake during the storm last week with her parents and Cole. She was able to hook up the genie and safely run it with zero problems. And outside line crews were protected as well. As far as the meter mounted transfer switch goes I'd go for it. Even if you're doing it yourself, assuming you know how. By the time you get all of your materials its $200 - 300. Plus your time. If you can afford the extra financial commitment you'll be done in 30 minutes. BTW - As a former lineman I've seen two improperly installed genies. No injuries but you bet some homeowners got a good talking to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #21 Posted September 9, 2011 Coles dad; I'm with you brother, my concern is to not inadvertantly misinform people that don't have the expertese or knowledge that those of us that are familiar with the grid and standby power and have seen the results of improper installations and or unknowing citizens trying to help themselves. I'm a former CAT standby power tech from north central florida. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 994 #22 Posted September 9, 2011 good thread going here,i think i will get a proper interlock,nobody needs to get hurt so that when the power is out i can still visit red square,where i live in the country of ontario we dont loose power very often,not 2 days in total in 25 years that i have lived here so i will get a cheap but legal system Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #23 Posted September 9, 2011 As far as the meter mounted transfer switch goes I'd go for it. Even if you're doing it yourself, assuming you know how. By the time you get all of your materials its $200 - 300. Plus your time. If you can afford the extra financial commitment you'll be done in 30 minutes. We priced it out in CT, and it's $700 installed, but our power company (United Illuminating), won't let you do it. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #24 Posted September 9, 2011 As far as the meter mounted transfer switch goes I'd go for it. Even if you're doing it yourself, assuming you know how. By the time you get all of your materials its $200 - 300. Plus your time. If you can afford the extra financial commitment you'll be done in 30 minutes. We priced it out in CT, and it's $700 installed, but our power company (United Illuminating), won't let you do it. I'm not too surprised. It must weigh a few pounds. Meter pans were not designed for that kind of weight to hang out in such a manner. I've wrecked more than one trying to get wires in the lugs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #25 Posted September 15, 2011 Karl, I posted about this a while ago, I put an interlock kit in from interlockkit.com; based on the recommendation of an EE who does electrical work outside of work. I think the setup cost me $200 for the kit and outside plug, the electrician cost me $270 he supplied the breaker and wire (seal tight). I got the gene new on sale at an ace hardware for $500 out the door. And the 50ft 30A cord I got off amazon for $120 shipped. it worked great through our 50 hour power outage after Irene, all I had to do after is change the oil. I used a Lic and Ins. Electrician because of horror stories I read about home owners ins not covering issues caused by DIY eletrical projects. This is really easy and you can DIY if you have knowledge, but I just worry about that stuff. It all meets NY code too. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...92&hl=generator Share this post Link to post Share on other sites