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Butch

Mule smoking.

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Butch

My mule started smoking today and then the belt got stretched way out. The two pulleys were hot but yet they spun freely. Do you guys somehow greese or oil those 2 pulleys? Plus I couldn't get the mule drive off the attach a matic.

Thanks

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TT

How'd you make out with this, Butch? Did the belt tensioner come off? Hopefully the pulleys won't put up a fight getting them off of the shaft. :banghead:

In the past, I have carefully picked the seal out of one side of each bearing, repacked them (but not crammed completely full) with plain old wheel bearing grease, and pushed the seal back in place.

They won't last forever, but if you've ever looked at the tiny amount of grease that's in a new bearing, you'll probably do this to every sealed bearing you buy. :thumbs2:

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Butch

How'd you make out with this, Butch? Did the belt tensioner come off? Hopefully the pulleys won't put up a fight getting them off of the shaft. :banghead:

In the past, I have carefully picked the seal out of one side of each bearing, repacked them (but not crammed completely full) with plain old wheel bearing grease, and pushed the seal back in place.

They won't last forever, but if you've ever looked at the tiny amount of grease that's in a new bearing, you'll probably do this to every sealed bearing you buy. :thumbs2:

No, not yet. I'll work on it tomorrow. Thanks for the belt info. I just ordered 2 belts.

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TT

10-4 :thumbs2:

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HorseFixer

In the past, I have carefully picked the seal out of one side of each bearing, repacked them (but not crammed completely full) with plain old wheel bearing grease, and pushed the seal back in place.

:D

Terry just reading this and thinking :thumbs2: Yes I do that now and again :banghead: I wonder how a super fine hypo needle would work filled with grease? :banghead:

Cheers ~Duke

:thumbs:

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TT

I use this type of needle tip a lot at work.

I still remove one of the seals so I can see the progress though.

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tunahead72

I use this type of needle tip a lot at work.

I still remove one of the seals so I can see the progress though.

I just used a very similar needle adapter (Plews/LubriMatic p/n 05-037, about the same price), on a couple of old noisy mule drive pulleys I had saved many years ago. It's a really delicate tool, and I could have used a 3rd hand, but it seemed to work well -- both pulleys are definitely smoother and quieter in my hand, but I haven't actually installed them yet.

It never occurred to me to remove one of the seals. Terry, I'm curious, if you do that, do you really need to use the needle tool, or can you just lube the bearings by hand? :thumbs2:

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BOWTIE

HELLO, I HAVE REMOVED THE SEAL FROM THE BEARINGS AND GREASE THEM BEFORE THEY NEEDED IT. THE TOUGH ONES ARE THE SMALL IDLERS ON THE DRIVE BELT AND MOWER DECK. I HAVE SMEARED GREASE AROUND THE SEAL AND THEN HEATED IT UP WITH A SMALL PROPANE TORCH. THE GREASE LIQUEFIES AND RUNS INTO THE BEARING. LIKE TT SAID THEY DON'T COME NEW WITH MUCH GREASE IN THEM. I HAVE G AND THEN SETS UP WHEN IT COOLS. I HAVE GOT A LOT YEARS ON ORIGINAL PULLEYS. GOOD LUCK BOWTIE IN OHIO

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Butch

I got the mule drive off. Trying to drive out the bearings in the mule drive pulley only resultyed in destroying a pulley. I checked for C-clips before banging away and didn't see any. I used a socket to drive the bearing out and no luck. Even with PB Blaster it didn't work. Those bearings didn't even budge. It was as if there was a c-clip holding them in.

Anyone know the part numbers to the pulleys and the bearings for that mule drive? It's from the 80's.

Thanks

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TT

Only the first year or three had the iron pulleys with serviceable bearings. Everything after that was made of "tin" and were throwaway parts - unless you drilled out the spotwelds or rivets to access the bearing.

Flat idler is p/n 104975 and the V idler is now 92-7103 (replaces p/n 104974)

Click HERE for a parts list that should be pretty close.

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Butch

Only the first year or three had the iron pulleys with serviceable bearings. Everything after that was made of "tin" and were throwaway parts - unless you drilled out the spotwelds or rivets to access the bearing.

Flat idler is p/n 104975 and the V idler is now 92-7103 (replaces p/n 104974)

Click HERE for a parts list that should be pretty close.

Thanks TT. I really appreciate it!

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Butch

TT I've already ordered both of them. Thanks.

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TT

Wow..... you don't mess around! :thumbs2:

You must really like to mow the grass. :banghead:

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