JUSS10 250 #1 Posted August 28, 2011 so i am thinking about adding an independent rear lift on my 1054 and was wondering if the pump thats in it has any sort of high pressure tap and low pressure return to add a second valve and cylinder off of the existing pump or would i need to add a second pump? thanks! Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #2 Posted August 28, 2011 In short no, it has two ports and they only have pressure when you move the handle forward or back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #3 Posted August 28, 2011 so i could run an aux cylinder off of that but not an independent one? thanks for the info kelly! Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #4 Posted August 28, 2011 Yup you could T the lines but both cyl. would move at the same time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #5 Posted August 29, 2011 could you put a valve in where the 't's are to direct flow to either cyl.? and the valve in the return line 't' would direct it back to the pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #6 Posted August 29, 2011 hmmm not quite sure what you are asking, though i am curious to see if there is a work around for this! Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #7 Posted August 29, 2011 its a little hard to explain without pics, but where the t s are there would be a valve on each to direct flow from the pump to either the front cyl or back cyl. then which ever cyl is working would need to return flow to the pump and the valve on the t for the return line would direct the flow back to the pump. it would take some finessing to get it right, but i think it could work. the valves would direct the flow to the cyl being used and also block pressure to the cyl not being used at the same time. you would set the direction of flow on both t valves before using the pump. does this sound like it would work or am i just thinking crazy........:thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,985 #8 Posted August 29, 2011 You could replace the existing single spool valve with a 2 spool valve. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item...tname=hydraulic You could install another single spool valve that has a power beyond port which will also feed the existing valve. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item...tname=hydraulic You could install a selector valve which would allow you to use both cylinders with the one existing valve. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item...tname=hydraulic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #9 Posted August 29, 2011 John the valve is built into the pump, adding spool valves will be tough. This is the basic pump he has different handle, but same set up. And his return spring maybe different Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,985 #10 Posted August 29, 2011 John the valve is built into the pump, adding spool valves will be tough. OOPs, my bad The selector valve would work. It's installed after the valve to select a cylinder. It's also the cheapest solution Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #11 Posted August 29, 2011 I'm really liking the selector valve. an electric one would work great, just mount a switch on the dash with an indicator light then mount the valve somewhere out of sight.... now just to find one for a fair price Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #12 Posted August 29, 2011 You could install a selector valve which would allow you to use both cylinders with the one existing valve. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item...tname=hydraulic justin, that is what i was sort of picturing to select the cylinder to use. thanks john for coming up with the link. i guess i was speaking too much australian. you could mount one of them neat so that just the handle is exposed like the one for the main pump. might even be able to do something where the gear selector plate is. this area..... now youve got me thinking about a rear cylinder......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #13 Posted August 30, 2011 i guess i was speaking too much australian. Anotther damn Aussie on here? This place is going downhill way fast!! Interesting thread. I'm interested to see what you guys come up with as I have been thinking about a 3 point on a 1054. My first thought was to slip an Eaton 1100 under there and use the hydraulics from that to power the 3 point. But it may be a little tall to go under there and will involve moving the fuel tank so it may not be an option. Havent had the time to do the mock up yet. My alternative plan was to replace the WH hydraulic pump with a "normal" one in the same location and run both circuits from that. I think by the time you ebayed the WH pump, it might not be a too expensive proposition. The other potential problem that I havent looked too deeply into yet, is how much clearance you need for the top arms to come up into. The 1054 toolbox comes down fairly low compared to a GT14 for example. It would be a shame for Martin to have to chop out all his carefully fabricated new pieces!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #14 Posted August 30, 2011 i guess i was speaking too much australian. Anotther damn Aussie on here? This place is going downhill way fast!! Interesting thread. I'm interested to see what you guys come up with as I have been thinking about a 3 point on a 1054. My first thought was to slip an Eaton 1100 under there and use the hydraulics from that to power the 3 point. But it may be a little tall to go under there and will involve moving the fuel tank so it may not be an option. Havent had the time to do the mock up yet. My alternative plan was to replace the WH hydraulic pump with a "normal" one in the same location and run both circuits from that. I think by the time you ebayed the WH pump, it might not be a too expensive proposition. The other potential problem that I havent looked too deeply into yet, is how much clearance you need for the top arms to come up into. The 1054 toolbox comes down fairly low compared to a GT14 for example. It would be a shame for Martin to have to chop out all his carefully fabricated new pieces!! you know mike, i think im gonna see what justin comes up with first... interesting subject though....... the fabbing doesnt bother me too much, but being powder coated im not really in the mood to totally disassemble and repaint. hey, its not even finished the first time yet, still need the seat, steering wheel and some small stuff done. oh, and the hyd pump isnt even back together yet, its still sitting on the bench. been busy with work and other things, no time for :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #15 Posted August 30, 2011 glad to see i sparked some interest. as for replacing the pump, if I'm not mistaken, an after market pump wouldn't work in place of the stock one due to it being the wrong rotation. I've heard you can run some pumps in both directions, just the out becomes the in and so forth but i am still new to this hydraulics thing I too am trying to think what to do with the top link. I am currently making a bracket that attaches to the axle via my snow plow bracket. this new bracket has the top link attachment on it for my "fake" 3 point that i built and used on my round hoods. this allows me to have a top link that doesn't tap into the tool box. I agree, ideally the tool box would be cut out thus exposing a perfect area for the 3 point hitch to work but my sheet metal is just to clean and straight to hack up. I've been keeping an eye out for another 1054/953 thats in rougher shape that i can do this too and make a worker unfortunately school started today so my time in the barn will now be greatly diminished, i will however let you all know how my top link works and go from there. I am really starting to lean towards getting one of those dual selection valves, i don't really see the need to run both cylinders at the same time anyway so that seems perfectly ideal. I'd really like to do it electrically but the electric solenoid valves are a fair bit more than the lever style... Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #16 Posted August 30, 2011 You can get hydraulic pumps that turn the other way. I dont know too much about hydraulics either, but I havent seen one that will turn either way. I'm in the fortunate (?) position that I can cut up my 1054 without worrying about it too much! I wouldnt do it to a nice one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,985 #17 Posted August 30, 2011 They make pumps that you can use CCW or CC. That's what I used for the hoe's pump. Available at Northern Tool. It seems the same exact pump is not available but this one has the same specs as I used. It can also be used as a motor. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/pro...29712_200329712 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #18 Posted September 1, 2011 You might want to look at power steering pumps, I think that some of them rotate ccw, if the pump runs on the smooth side of the serpentine belt the pump rotates ccw, then it's a matter of replacing the pulley and fabbing a bracket and reservoir. It would be interesting to know if the sectional valves can be stacked to make up a multi spool valve assembly, unfortunately my collection of hydraulic stuff got donated to a different cause and I don't have any spare hydraulic stuff to play with Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
