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nhrc1

D160 transaxle help!!

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nhrc1

I have a 1976 D-160 with an F E L. I was moving gravel for about 3 hours no problem, then I went to back-up and went about 5 feet and it stopped with a screeching sound as if you were pushing against a wall while pushing the D C L . Put it in forward 5 feet same results. The rear and deck hydraulics work the hydro motor is spinning; I did see some oil under hydro motor on cross member. I turned the screw on the side to disengage the hydro to roll it in to the garage when I try to roll it same thing 5 feet either direction, It just locks up. I know this isn

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gzx3sc

I've heard of this issue. There are several bolts in the transaxle that hold the differential parts together. Either a nut comes off one of the bolts or the head of the bolt shears off. There's not enough room between the casting and ring gear for the nut so it locks up. If you force it, you'll bust the casting. I'm going off of what I've heard. I've not experienced this myself, but I have two rebuild transaxles just in case.

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nhrc1

Thats what i thought it could be. I also read something about the parking paw, but I can't find the thread that mentioned it.

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tunahead72

Did you try a search on "parking pawl" (not "paw")? :hide:

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gzx3sc

You might get a chipped tooth off the parking paw but unless it wedges between the ring gear teeth I doubt if it would cause a problem. That would explain the 5 feet forward, 5 feet back (one revolution of the ring gear before hitting the pinion gear.

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squonk

I have almost the same problem with my C-160. Was the differential problem with the D's only or is it a problems on other's too?

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refracman

The Ds were the only ones that had this as a regular problem, undersized bolts that hold the diff together. The fix is to to upgrade the size of bolts. Just another problem that the Ds have. Its a shame they quit makeing them, by the end of production they had most of the problems fixed.

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nhrc1

When you say undersized bolts that hold the diff together do you mean the cases or is it internal bolts?

What would the steps be to remove the transaxle, and is there a manual I could down load.

Thanks for your input.

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pfrederi

I think the correct term would be under strength bolts in the differential. When I fixed my D200 I used some Grade 9 special bolts from McMaster.

You will have to split the transmission and removing the hubs can be a real PIA...start soaking them now. (Click for full size)

087b94134459186.jpg

6599ea134459211.jpg

Also do not try to force moving it or you may break the trans case.

You need to download the Sundstrand hydro manual available from Toro and other places

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nhrc1

Thanks for the reply, I like to try and confirm what I think I should do with some one that has done it so I don't brake something and hen say I thought that

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pfrederi

Dave when you remove the manifold the only thing that may fall out are the O rings. They are sort of unique (the round ones were not in my set of 1000 o rings and the two square ones used as backers on the high pressure ports are really unique). They are all available from Toro, and you should probably plan on replacing them. I found the round ones from Mcmaster but as you had to by 100 of two different sizes Toro was cheaper. There also is a special sealing washer on one bolt which is NLA from Toror. You might get away with reusing ..I used a copper crush washer which seem to work OK.

I would get a case gasket and also as long as you are this far in I would remove the hydro motor from the transaxle and check the screen filter behind it. It has a magnet to attract chips etc. Therefor I would also get the gasket that goes between the motor and the transaxle. (I am not a big fan of using silicone...It can get into places it doesn't belong).

Incidentally I bent that puller working on the other side...those hubs are a real PIA and you can break them easier than pulling them...

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pfrederi

Dave: These are the High strength bolts from McMaster I used in my D200

90201A333 1 Pack Grade 9 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw, Zinc Yellow-plated, 3/8"-16 Thread, 3-1/2" Length

93591A300 1 Pack Grade 9 Oval-top Hex Locknut, 3/8"-16 Thread Size, 9/16" Width, 25/64" Height

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nhrc1

Thanks for the info. I got it up on jack stands and took the wheels and lower lift arms off the 3 point tonight. Also got one hub off (that leaky oil seal helped!) I

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pfrederi

The axle keys are woodruff keys (half round). Usually I drive down on the inner end with a brass drift pin.

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nhrc1

Finally droped the transaxle today. Got it up on the bench and when I rock it I hear something rattling inside, hopefully that is the broken bolt in the differential that gzx3sc mentioned. Now for my next questions

(1) pfrederi mentioned square o-rings all I saw under the manifold on the transaxle were round ones. I only saw 5 o rings on transaxle (none stuck on manifold) Is there a ring under a ring, is that what the parts manual calls

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Trouty56

There also is a special sealing washer on one bolt which is NLA from Toro. You might get away with reusing ..I used a copper crush washer which seem to work OK.

Paul mentioned the NLA washer above in a post. Maybe you missed it.

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pfrederi

The 2 high pressure ports each have 2 O rings. One is regular profile (round) the other is a backer ring and has a square profile. Sorry I didn't describe that really well before. As I said the only viable source I found was Toro.

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nhrc1

Thanks for the info. I didn

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pfrederi

The needles should not be put back. When I had mine apart I replaced most all the bearings except one 8049 (replaced by 5960) is NLA. It is on the motor end of the gear shaft. I went to Bearings and drives unlimited and Motion industries and couldn't find a replacement so it went back in as it was.

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nhrc1

Thanks for all your info on the o-rings Paul, after looking at the parts view for the 100th time I realized that there are 3 different o-rings. On the transaxle end it shows all the o-ring but only 2 reference numbers on the hydro motor side it shows all the o-rings and 3 reference numbers! I didn

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Conrad

Hi,  I just found this thread.  I have the same problem with my D-160.  The rear axle will turn 1/2 revoution either direction and lock up.  I'm courious as to how you did with your repair.  I'm trying to decide what to do with my tractor.  Ant info you can give me would be great.  Thanks,  Conrad

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brandonozz

Take a look at this picture and note the bolt that is on the right.  There are 4 bolts that hold the bull gear and pinions in place and the bolt on the right had broken or nut came off.  When that happens the bolt will slide out and as the gears turn it will hit the gear that is in the middle.  Normally the bolt heads run between the two gears. Not a problem to fix and if you dont actually break the bolt and get loose bolts/nuts rolling around while still running the tractor you can keep from breaking your case.  The bull gear/ring gear runs close to the case so any loose metal can get caught between and crack the case - like happened to mine.  Its all good now with grade 9 bolts and a new case.

post-4057-0-68495500-1376412862_thumb.jp

 

Not a hard repair but time consuming.  We will help you all we can.

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Conrad

Brandon, thanks for the info and the picture.   Looks like I'm in for a challenge fixing this.  I do believe my case is not cracked so that's a good start.  Conrad

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pawillie1947

Hey Guys the PO of my D180 ignored the problem (was still moving ) check out my pics and see what damage can be done.

 

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jgauvin812

Just got done upgrading the differential I got for my D-200 from a D-160. 

Sharpened a masonry bit so it wouldn't drag on the sides of the carbide tip and opened the 5/16" holes in the ring gear to 3/8", did this on a Bridgeport for rigidity so the drill wouldn't chip.

Re-sharpened the drill point each hole and I made it through all four holes, cut at 130 RPM dry.

Opened the holes on the side castings with a standard high speed steel twist drill.

Installed new L9 bolts and locking nuts.

Some new axle bearings and seals and we should be all set.

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