Draining & Filling an Oil Boiler

[mattd860 162]

I have to drain and fill my oil boiler (Burnham model V8) in order to add a couple tie-ins (tees) to the system so I can hook up my new Wood Boiler. However I've never done something like this before. I have plenty of plumbing experience but never worked on a boiler or heating system. I also want to prevent any problems because its still the middle of winter and I have a wife and baby in the house

So how is filling up the boiler and heating system accomplished? I know there is an air bleeder above the expansion tank but other than that, how do you purge the air out of the system and get it running perfectly like it is now???

I've provided some pictures below so you can get a better idea of what I'm working with.

Burnham Boiler / Becket Burner

[B-8074 20]

Do you have the cast iron radiators?

[mattd860 162]

Do you have the cast iron radiators?

no - I have copper base boards.

[mr.pipes 4]

Hi Matt, Looks like you have three zones that are pulling on the return. Is that correct? I see two ball valves for two of the zones that go up stairs I am guessing. Is the third zone for a indirect water heater or basement zone? Is there a ball valve on that return? Most important, is there a draw off/drain above each ball valve?

[mattd860 162]

Hi Matt, Looks like you have three zones that are pulling on the return. Is that correct? I see two ball valves for two of the zones that go up stairs I am guessing. Is the third zone for a indirect water heater or basement zone? Is there a ball valve on that return? Most important, is there a draw off/drain above each ball valve?

Yes, three zones pulling the water to the return of the boiler and the third zone is the basement. There are valves above each circulator.

[mr.pipes 4]

Hi Matt, Looks like you have three zones that are pulling on the return. Is that correct? I see two ball valves for two of the zones that go up stairs I am guessing. Is the third zone for a indirect water heater or basement zone? Is there a ball valve on that return? Most important, is there a draw off/drain above each ball valve?

Yes, three zones pulling the water to the return of the boiler and the third zone is the basement. There are valves above each circulator.

I see that there are flow checks on the feeds. Hopefully there are ball valves too.

1. Open the water feed and fill the system.

2. First find out which feed goes with which return.

3. Close feed and return ball valves on each zone.

The third picture down is your fast fill valve. It reduces the pressure but you will overide it by putting the lever vertical. But not yet. There is a relief valve that will blow off at 30psi so you will need to watch this. Sometimes when they get old they will not seat right when opened.

Now start with one zone to purge the air. A washing machine hose and a bucket will work but a hose ran to a drain or the outdoors is easier.

4. Connect the hose to a draw off above the zone valve on the return.

5. Kink the hose in your hand.

6. Open the draw off.

7. Open the ball valve on the FEED to that zone.

8. Open lever on fast fill.

9. Unkink hose and water and air will be forced out.

Try to keep the pressure around 20psi while you are doing this buy kinking the hose. You should feel the air if you pinch the hose between your thumb and finger. It feels like bubbles or pebbles going through.

When all air is out, close ball valve on feed. Then immediately lower the lever on fast fill.

Then repeat for each zone.

Make sure to open all 6 ball valves when done.

I will PM you my Phone # if this isn't clear or you unsure. Good luck

I just reread your original post. Did you start this project yet. If not, you can close the valves on each end of the zones and isolate them. That way they stay full of water and pressurized. Then you will only need to purge the boiler and zone you are working on.

[mattd860 162]

Thanks!!

I will be able to follow most of those instructions however, there are no valves on the supply side of the 3 zones. There are only shut-off valves above the circulators on the return side.

[mattd860 162]

Here's a better look at my existing oil boiler system. I do have another question to. Currently, I have a #30 expansion tank. Since I'm about doubling the water volume, should I add a #60 or #90 expansion tank?

[HorseFixer 2,013]

No. That tank will be fine. If you need to install more boiler drain valves & Isolation Ball Valves now is the time to do it. Where are you venting this

wood boiler to? And with what kind of vent material? Are you venting boiler through a Separate Chimney? The pressure relief valve I would like to

see replaced & piped away from that burner most especially since your adding a wood burning boiler, Which they have a track record to be over

fired easily. If that auto air vent on top of that Taco Air Scoop is still leaking I would replace that too while yer at it. Don't want to see water rusting out

your boiler skin draining inside getting insulation wet and cracking the cast iron (which Incidentally I have seen happen.) Oil is a hot fuel and burns at

144,000 btu per gallon -vs- Nat gas at 92K and propane at 96K :thumbs:

[mattd860 162]

Thanks for all your help guys. I drained the boiler, added the tie-ins for the new wood boiler, and filled it back up. It was cake! I even added a drain valve since there was non, a purge valve, larger expansion tank, and zone shutoff valves. Previously, there were only shutoff valves on the return of the zones, just above the circulators.

I have a question about boiler pressure. Before I started the work, I noted the pressure was 30psi which is what the boiler has been operating at since I've owned the home (6 months). The boiler manual says to fill the boiler until 12psi and then it goes right into saying not to exceed the maximum psi as noted on the boiler nameplate. The boiler nameplate reads 50psi max. So I ended up filling it initially to 12psi as stated, purged the system, and then continued to fill it back to 30psi. After about 12 hours of operation, the boiler is still operating at 30psi so it's running normally. However, forgive the noob question - since the max is 50psi, should I increase psi higher than 30psi? Will there be any performance increase if I increase the operating psi?

Take a look at the pics:

Boiler Pressure - Burnham V8 model W83 installed in 2006:

BEFORE

AFTER

Pipe with 3-speed circulator sending return water wood boiler return (wood boiler located in garage)

Supply with check valve from wood boiler. Also note the purge valve.

New drain valve. I had to stick a wet-vac hose down the 1-1/2" return pipe to drain the boiler since this valve was not previously installed.

[can whlvr 994]

nice work,allways nice when a plan comes together

[mr.pipes 4]

I have a question about boiler pressure. Before I started the work, I noted the pressure was 30psi which is what the boiler has been operating at since I've owned the home (6 months). The boiler manual says to fill the boiler until 12psi and then it goes right into saying not to exceed the maximum psi as noted on the boiler nameplate. The boiler nameplate reads 50psi max. So I ended up filling it initially to 12psi as stated, purged the system, and then continued to fill it back to 30psi. After about 12 hours of operation, the boiler is still operating at 30psi so it's running normally. However, forgive the noob question - since the max is 50psi, should I increase psi higher than 30psi? Will there be any performance increase if I increase the operating psi?

Try putting it up to 50psi and see what happens. Just make sure you have your shop vac handy. The pressure relief valve will blow off at 30psi if it is operating properly. You are able to run it at 30psi right now because the gauge isn't quite accurate or the relief valve could be getting old. I would take some pressure off because if the relief valves blows off it may not close properly and will drip. The pressure is only needed to get the water to the second floor. 1psi will go 2.31ft, so 10psi will go 23 feet which will get from your basement boiler to the second floor baseboard heaters. I like to set them at 15psi cold which may give you just over 20psi hot which is plenty. Also, you might want to add a draw off above the ball valve on the new return. That will be an easier place to purge with that setup. :thumbs:

[mattd860 162]

Try putting it up to 50psi and see what happens. Just make sure you have your shop vac handy. The pressure relief valve will blow off at 30psi if it is operating properly. You are able to run it at 30psi right now because the gauge isn't quite accurate or the relief valve could be getting old. I would take some pressure off because if the relief valves blows off it may not close properly and will drip. The pressure is only needed to get the water to the second floor. 1psi will go 2.31ft, so 10psi will go 23 feet which will get from your basement boiler to the second floor baseboard heaters. I like to set them at 15psi cold which may give you just over 20psi hot which is plenty. Also, you might want to add a draw off above the ball valve on the new return. That will be an easier place to purge with that setup.

Thanks. I just checked and the relief valve is rated for 30psi. I will lower the psi to 20 just to be safe. My main concern is cracking the boiler or something like that.

I was going to add a purge valve however I'm putting a air valve on the new wood boiler supply line which is higher than any other point in the wood/oil boiler loop. You don't think that's sufficient?

[mr.pipes 4]

Thanks. I just checked and the relief valve is rated for 30psi. I will lower the psi to 20 just to be safe. My main concern is cracking the boiler or something like that.

I was going to add a purge valve however I'm putting a air valve on the new wood boiler supply line which is higher than any other point in the wood/oil boiler loop. You don't think that's sufficient?

At pressures that low you shouldn't have to worry about cracking the boiler. Adding to much cold water to a hot boiler you can cold shock it and crack it. However, the higher pressure could put added stress on old rubber circulator gaskets that have gotten hot then cold thousands of times over the years.

Adding an Automatic Air Vent in the wood boiler is a good idea. If you want, I have an extra air scoop I could send you for the cost of shipping. The air vent will help get rid of air in the system. They are more for eliminating oxygen that has been cooked out of the water. The system should be purged of as much air as possible after filled.

I drew a little diagram to help illustrate how you would want to purge your system the way it is set up. You want to send water all the way around the loop and take the air off at the end. The setup on yours is decent and you should be able to do a good job with it.

Ideally if I had done the boiler, I would have feed the water right where the return hits the boiler. To the right, a ball valve and a draw off to the right of that. Then you could purge the entire loops and you don't have to move the hose to do each zone. Also you could isolate that little section to change a circulator without draining the boiler or even that zone.

Note: I have been referring to this as a boiler. Technically, a boiler makes steam. The proper name is a Forced Hot Water Furnace. Most people in the trade call them a boiler anyways.

[mattd860 162]

Attached are the semi-finished pictures of the new wood boiler. I just need to finish insulating some of the piping.

[can whlvr 994]

so does the boiler give off enough radiant heat to heat what looks like your shop,garage,nice lookin setup

[mattd860 162]

so does the boiler give off enough radiant heat to heat what looks like your shop,garage,nice lookin setup

The boiler is located in my attached garage and is piped directly to the oil boiler located in the basement

The boiler does give off some heat but not much. It's very well insulated to keep the water warm. Some residual heat does radiate from the firebox and fire door. It might add about 10-15 degrees to the garage temps.

I am going to install a chimney heater this summer which will heat the garage with the heat lost up the chimney. It's called a Magic Heater or Heat Reclaimer.

http://flue-master.com/heating.html

or

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/155855/pr...-Reclaimer.html

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/Magic-Heat-Reclaimer-W...=item483faf8bc9