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dgjks6

Painting in cold weather

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dgjks6

I am always thinking 2 steps ahead, and in reality, at my pace, I won't be painting until June anyway, but...

What happens if I apply paint out of a spray can when it is 40 degress in the garage? Surface is clean and dry, just cold. If it takes longer to dry, I can live with that, but if it will make the paint not stick I will figure out something else.

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mr.pipes

I am always thinking 2 steps ahead, and in reality, at my pace, I won't be painting until June anyway, but...

What happens if I apply paint out of a spray can when it is 40 degress in the garage? Surface is clean and dry, just cold. If it takes longer to dry, I can live with that, but if it will make the paint not stick I will figure out something else.

I have been wondering about painting in the cold myself. My plan was to have the paint and item in a warm area, paint in the cold garage and bring it back to a heated area to dry. The can says best results when air and surface temp is 50-90 degrees. The garage is probably 40 if it is 32 outside. I guess I could try it out on a test piece. I'm curious what others have to say.

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Anglo Traction

Most of my painting was carried out (with Cans) in low temp conditions with no adverse affects on the finish or condition of the paintwork. The important thing is Low Humidity. As mentioned, if the parts are pre-warmed, painted and left to 'Touch' dry. They can then be moved to a warmer atmosphere without the cold panel attracting moisture onto the surface causing 'Blooming'.

I also use a Halogen Heater on the panels in the cold area straight after painting to assist drying, so they are warmer before moving them.

This is using mostly Celulose based Car Paints and Primers, High Temp Manifold Paints and Zinc Sprays which are all pretty quick drying.

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meadowfield

As the temperature here has dropped to 40F and below I have found that the items I have brush painted have formed a skin within the normal drying time, but then the paint fails to harden.

The result is the paint is dry to touch but if you handle it then you scratch or leave prints in it.

The missus have been doing her nut for the last few months as we have wheels, hoods, and a whole raft of parts hanging in the kitchen to dry....

mark

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Anglo Traction

The missus have been doing her nut for the last few months as we have wheels, hoods, and a whole raft of parts hanging in the kitchen to dry....

:banghead: Wow Mark that's really Tempting Fate !. You could always nick some wire coat hanger from her wardrobe and use 'em to hang/carry the panels without getting Dab marks on them ! :thumbs:

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meadowfield

The missus have been doing her nut for the last few months as we have wheels, hoods, and a whole raft of parts hanging in the kitchen to dry....

:banghead: Wow Mark that's really Tempting Fate !. You could always nick some wire coat hanger from her wardrobe and use 'em to hang/carry the panels without getting Dab marks on them ! :thumbs:

here is my kitchen as of a few weeks ago.

painting.jpg

it's a mixed bag of wheelhorse, westwood W11 and briggs and stratton parts.

Prizes for identifying what the bits are...

mark

p.s. I think the picture on the wall says it all!

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btrrg1969

I painted my tractor in my un-heated shop in ( Jan/ Feb) , it will dry to touch but it will take awhile for it to cure fully

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Duff

Like many of us, I don't have a paint booth, but I do have a heated workshop. I make sure the parts are nice and warm inside by the woodstove, then I take them outside and rattle can them. As long as I don't dawdle around outside and get back them in while they're still fairly warm the paint seems to adhere and dry very nicely. Large sheet metal parts (hood, fender) that take a while to spray I leave until a warmer day. Something about sheet metal cooling down faster than parts made of heavier gauge metal, or some such.... :thumbs:

Duff :banghead:

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rickv1957

Like many of us, I don't have a paint booth, but I do have a heated workshop. I make sure the parts are nice and warm inside by the woodstove, then I take them outside and rattle can them. As long as I don't dawdle around outside and get back them in while they're still fairly warm the paint seems to adhere and dry very nicely. Large sheet metal parts (hood, fender) that take a while to spray I leave until a warmer day. Something about sheet metal cooling down faster than parts made of heavier gauge metal, or some such.... :thumbs:

Duff :banghead:

I do about the same thing in the winter!!!

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can whlvr

i also do like duff,and i dry htem beside the wood stove in the shop

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Coadster32

When I did both of my tractors, it was cold outside. I'd keep the parts warm, and the spray cans warm inside. I'd go outside to spray, and then back inside. No problems. I've never done it cold 100% of the time though.

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Raider12

You need the warmer temp to make the thinners in the paint to evaporate or it will not dry. The colder temps will no dought take longer to dry but you may obtain the shinny finish you are looking for in the end due to the color freezing?

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