A few important Kohler questions

[WH Raider10 17]

Hi guys,

Last Sunday I bought a c-161 with briggs&straton twin 16 HP. Besides that the lady also has a 416-8 for sale. She made a good price for the two but the engine,a kohler K341,16 HP that is on the 416-8 leaks a bit of oil. I'll take a look at it wen I'm going to haul the c-161. If I would take it what would be the maximum hours I need to look at on the hour meter? After how many hours should it need a rebuilt?

It's also hasn't run in two years. If somebody could let me know how many hours would be to much would be verry helpfull.

Another Question,I'm reasembeling my Kohler K241,I took of the governor arm of the cross-shaft for painting. I looked in the manual and I know how to set it back again. But is it normal I can turn the cross-shaft with my fingers,is it supposed to be turn easy because in the manual they say you need to turn it back with a gripper? Also it doesn't turn that much back,I guess only about a 1/2 turn from right to the left. Is this normal?

Any respons would be great!

:D

[Don1977 604]

I would have more faith in the Kohler than the Briggs but that's just me. Check to see what is leaking on the Kohler it could be just the oil pan seal. I have nothing against Briggs. I put a new 18 HP Vanguard on my C-120 last spring.

[WH Raider10 17]

:ychain: Thank you for the respons. Nobody else? :D

[daemon2525 5]

Your governor shaft is working properly. It will turn VERY easy and should only turn about a quarter turn. I suspect that they want you to use grippers because there is not much stickng out to hang on to.

[WH Raider10 17]

:ychain: ,I'm glad it's working fine!

Does anyone can tell me something about the maximum hours a Kohler K341 engine can have before it need a rebuilt? :D

[Horse'n Around 22]

The governor shaft does turn easy so theres nothing wrong . The reason they say use pliers or something to grab it is because after you install the arm on the shaft, there is very little of the shaft exposed to use fingers to turn it so pliers or something similar is needed to grip and turn the shaft when setting the governor. Also the shaft is only supposed to rotate maybe a 1/8th of a turn or so, at least thats about how much it turns on my K161's and k181's, Im not sure about the larger displacement Kohlers but I would think they are pretty close in this respect.

John

[WH Raider10 17]

:ychain: John!

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

Hours on the meter aren't necessarily a good way to judge an engine's condition or how (and if) it was maintained and serviced on a regular basis.

I have seen some pretty low-hour machines that were beat into the ground, and I have seen some machines with high hours that still ran exactly like they did when new.

None of my older Kohler-powered machines have hour meters, and I would only be guessing as to how many hours some of them have seen. I do know that I have a few 1960's engines that have never been apart and they still have plenty of power, start easily & run smooth, and use no or very little oil.

I'm going to say that with proper care & maintenance, 2000 to 3000 hours isn't abnormal, and some of these engines could possibly hit the 5000 hour mark and still be ready for more.

As far as the oil leaks are concerned, you'd have to find out exactly where they're coming from. Chances are, it's probably the fuel pump to block area, but an engine with excess blow-by will push oil out of the crankcase breather. Since both components are in the same area, it's not easy to find the source without first cleaning the entire engine and periodically checking as it's being operated.

[WH Raider10 17]

:ychain: terry! The lady told me it started leaking oil somewhere on the engine,that's way she parked it 2 years ago because she was affraid to break it. I'll take a look at it when I'm going to pick up the C-161. But it must be the breather of some other gasket that can be fixed.

The Kohler K241 on my Raider 10 still runs strong after 36 years. I did had to replace carburetor, aircleaner with pre-filter,fuel pump,new coil,condensor,points and new breather and all the other gaskets. And after all that I opened the head and found a dead exhaust valve. Yesterday I lapped in the new one with new keepers, all that going with a new head gasket should be good to go.

Thanks for the help guys and i'll keep you all posted when I get my new wheelhorse! :D

[WH nut 553]

Dont forget to adjust the valve lash with the new Valve, its going to be tighter

[WH Raider10 17]

Sorry, but what is the valve lash? :ychain:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

It's the clearance between the tip of the valve stem and the lifter. (cam follower)

I won't agree with saying the clearance will be "tighter" either. There's too many variables like seat wear, was the seat ground? (now or ever), how much was the tip worn on the old valve?, was a valve adjustment performed recently - or ever?

Regardless, the lifters are adjustable (on the 10 through 18hp singles) and the clearance should be set at .009" on the intake and .018" on the exhaust,

[WH Raider10 17]

I don't really understand you guys. The seat of the exhaust valve looks perfect,I just cleaned it up and lapped the new valve in. It fits perfect on the old seat.

The old exhaust valve was worn pretty bad,it was burned I guess and it wasn't closing anymore on the seat. I still have to adjust the clearance of the exhaust valve and the intake valve.I'm the first one in 36 years that looked at the valves and cleaned the head. There was like almost no carbon build up and no oil on top of the piston so I guess the rings are still good. It was just verry hard starting and backfiring with new carb,that's why I opened the head and found the badly worn out exhaust valve. I hope it will be all solved when it's back together.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

I still have to adjust the clearance of the exhaust valve and the intake valve.

That's what we're talking about. :ychain:

[WH Raider10 17]

OK! Will keep you all posted! :ychain:

[WH nut 553]

LOL Thats what I meant TT