Kelly 1,028 #26 Posted December 11, 2010 maybe you should have just came clean about the tractor, and all the bad might not have happened, carma at it's best. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgjks6 6 #27 Posted December 11, 2010 maybe you should have just came clean about the tractor, and all the bad might not have happened, carma at it's best. HA! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #28 Posted December 11, 2010 I hate to admit it but I have been pondering making the same statement as kelly. Because I am a pretty big fan of the karma Idea. Even though my name isnt Earl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgjks6 6 #29 Posted December 11, 2010 The worst part is I did not start the tractor until after I unloaded it so I don't know if it made the noise before I dropped it. Think if I tell her now it will fix itself? Or should I tell her because if I do, it will be a small 5 minute fix and something simple, and if I don't the engine will need a complete rebuild. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #30 Posted December 11, 2010 Think if I tell her now it will fix itself? Said I believed in karma not miracles But maybe it would be a christmas miracle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #31 Posted December 12, 2010 Pull the plug wires off one at a time and see if it changes the way it runs, Sounds like a broken rod to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #32 Posted December 12, 2010 Scratch that, is a 1 lunger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brandonsj04 0 #33 Posted January 2, 2011 Yeah that is pretty odd. Sounds like rod knock but don't hear it when running. Could it be that your carb is dirty causing the engine to diesel when you shut it off. Just a thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest #34 Posted January 3, 2011 It's hard to isolate the real span of the clunk event with all the peripheral stuff happening (bearing hum, mis-fires etc.) Taking the PTO off helps but that thing runs so rough that an attempt at tuning the carb might be a good next step before pulling things apart. Funny how it gets really loud in the 3rd clip. Is there a relationship between the rough running and the clatter? (maybe - maybe not) I mean if you can't tune it with the needles, it could be something with the valves, cams, loose carbon. If it does tune well, at least you will be able to hear what's going on a little better and see if that noise is present at any other time. That will arm you better if you decide to take stuff apart. Good luck. I think you'll find it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgjks6 6 #35 Posted March 27, 2011 Well fellas, I had time too further investigate the noise today and I got good news and I got bad news. I found the problem. Turns out the drive pulley was loose. Good news - runs like a dream - sort of, a little rough, but no smoke, but I think I just need to clean the fuel system. I was excited. No need to rebuild. That was an expensive process on the k181, and I was sure it was going to cost a fortune for the 16hp beast. But then everything, as always, turns out worse than I thought. key: and keyway: So now back to the thinking phase. I know the correct response is replace the crank, but... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse'n Around 22 #36 Posted March 27, 2011 I dont have any experience with this model tractor, but it it possible to install a longer key that will engage the good part of the key way and the pulley? It looks like this one was sitting almost all the way to the inside toward the block. Just a thought... John Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #37 Posted March 27, 2011 I am agreeing with John at this point. A piece of keystock the full width of the pulley might pick up the undamaged parts of the keyway. You can buy a 12" length of keystock (or even about 3" lengths) at an "old style" hardware store (if any still exist...) How does the keyway in the pulley look? It may be flogged out as well, but the longer key may work here as well. If not, a new keyway could be broached in the pulley. Does this remind you of screwing around with axles and hubs?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #38 Posted March 27, 2011 Before you do anything else, you need to measure the OD of the crankshaft and determine if it's worn too much for another pulley to fit correctly. (I'm guessing the pulley is "wrecked" too, right?) Fitting a longer key is possible, but it will either need ground for the inner PTO bearing race to fit over it, or the inner bearing race will need a keyway machined (broached) in it too. JB Weld can be used to tighten up a new key if you don't want to get into a ton of time & money. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgjks6 6 #39 Posted March 27, 2011 The pulley looks good to me. But now that I have the measuring tools I will do that. Here is a pic of the pulley and the key. And guess where I took them? In the family room where it is nice and warm. (Wife and kids gone for a week - but lets keep this a secret between us, just in case) You know whats going through my mind right now? Why am I starting another wheel horse project when the first isn't completly done. I think I need medication. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #40 Posted March 27, 2011 You know whats going through my mind right now? Why am I starting another wheel horse project when the first isn't completly done. I think I need medication. I wonder that (about myself!!) all the time! There is a Loctite product that was specifically designed for keyway repair. Here is a tutorial with pics on it being used to repair a keyway on the front of the crank on a Mazda Miata. http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html I've never tried this stuff, but I have read the original article written by a Loctite engineer, and thought it might be worth a try sometime. It looks like you could almost double the length of the key and still be "inside" the pulley ie not interfering with the PTO sleeve. I'm not sure it would be possible to broach a keyway in that sleeve, the outside will be hardened I dont know if the inside will be too? I tend to replace the keys in all my motors with one that is the same length as the pulley width - I dont see why anyone would want one shorter than the full width of the pulley. As Terry mentioned, check the OD of the crank, and the ID of the pulley for wear. If you decide you do need a new keyway broached in the pulley, send me a PM with the pulley ID and keyway width. I have some broaching equipment here and may be able to do it for you (I'm about an hour NE of Akron). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shootinok 15 #41 Posted March 27, 2011 I believe a longer key and some JB Weld would do it. That stuff is truly amazing. and by the way... Man... I hope I don't catch WHAD as bad as some of you guys (Wheel Horse Acquisition Disorder) sounds like it's terribly contagious. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #42 Posted March 27, 2011 Man... I hope I don't catch WHAD as bad as some of you guys (Wheel Horse Acquisition Disorder) sounds like it's terribly contagious. You will... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #43 Posted March 28, 2011 Man... I hope I don't catch WHAD as bad as some of you guys (Wheel Horse Acquisition Disorder) sounds like it's terribly contagious. You will... Oh, yeah....you can count on it! Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
