Problem with K341S Crankshaft

[JoeMonag 1]

I'm having my K341S from my 416-8 rebuilt. The engine rebuilder got the crank back from the machine shop, and it was worn beyound the .010" kolher recomends going to. A new p/n 4514221S crank is about 350 bucks, if you can fine one. Another option is to have Brian Miler in MO turn the crank down another .010", bore out the new rod and install a bearing. He quoted me aabout 100 bucks to do so today. Has any one had any experiance with turning down the crank and boring the rod and installing a bearing, by Brian Miller.

I need to be able to depend on the engine to drive my 44" two stage snow thrower to clear my 400' driveway. I'm concerned that the machined rod could be a weak spot. I had hoped to get the engine back this week, and now I,m at a stand still, winter is coming. I would welcome any suggestions, and advice.

Thanks Joe in Norton,MA

[Kelly 1,028]

All I can say is Brian builds some very nice pulling engines, and I've heard his work is top notch, and I believe a bearing insert is much better than a alum. rod on the steel crank.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

Using a bearing insert in the connecting rod is nothing but a plus - especially if it keeps you from buying a new crankshaft.

The only downfall is that many machine shops want to start with a "virgin" Kohler rod - probably for guarantee reasons - so you still have that expense, plus the machining and bearing expense.

As far as the Brian Miller part goes....... he isn't the only shop that can do the machine work, so you might want to check around for some place a little closer.

A good machine shop can probably even resize the "big end" of a connecting rod to fit a .020" or .030" undersize journal without the need for an insert.

[JoeMonag 1]

TT we have the new .010" undersized rod. How do you make the rod smaller without an insert or bearing? Joe

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

The mating surface between the cap and rod is machined off (slightly) to make the bore "egg-shaped". The cap is then reinstalled and torqued to spec and the bore is machined to the "new" size.

[rick 216]

That is what my machinist did for me, for my K241. It has been run 50 hours now with no problem.

[JoeMonag 1]

Hey, I decided to go with the Brain Miller option, to grind the crank as needed, bore the rod to allow for the clevite bearing insert. I shipped it out to him today.

Joe in Norton

[546cowboy 301]

I have the same problem and the guy on Ebay that I bought my overhaul kit from sells a .020 under rod. This is his Ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mans-One-Stop-Shop

It is a Stens rod I believe and I ordered one today. He says $30 in his info but the bill was $47.50. He does get it to you quick though I had the overhaul kit in three days.

I don't know how it's going to work out but it was worth a shot.

[The Toolman 22]

On car cranks we used to weld them up an then turn'em back to original dimensions.

Any decent machine shop can handle that. But I guess this option is mute now.

[JoeMonag 1]

I tried to talk my engine rebuilder to go with the welding option, but I guess the machine shop he uses didn't want to go there. I didn't spend a lot of time looking for some one local to do the machining. I decided to go with Brian Miller, as he seems to have a lot of experiance. Joe