bearing Help

[mavfreak 11]

this is the bearing that fits into the engine drive pulley. the toro number is 106499 Bearing-ball and its around $64.

I would like to see if I can find it cheaper

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

Did you try measuring the old one?

Here's a head start....... it's 1" bore. :)

[mavfreak 11]

that's easy part...unfortunately the outer race is to far gone to get a good measurement off of. It doesn't appear to have damaged the pulley which I could use for a measurement. I was just kinda hoping someone had replaced it and had a size. if all else fails I'll get the best measurement I can. I just don't want this to be a costly oops.

[Don1977 604]

Don't know if they are all the same. Mine is 3/4" ID, 1 3/4" OD and 5/8" thick.

I replaced mine with a Fafnir P204RR6. Don't know if this helps you any.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

OK...... scratch the 1" bore part. (I was thinking of the wrong bearing)

I just checked an OEM 106499 and it's 62 X 35 X 14 double-side sealed with the external snap ring.

I have a few here and was going to offer one to you at half the Toro list price, but you can definitely get them cheaper - and you probably will.

Here's an eBay item number to get you started: 380281749966

[mavfreak 11]

thanks TT that's a little easier on the pocket book than toro. :thumbs:

[Coadster32 793]

Did you try McMaster Carr or Kaman?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

Keep in mind that there is a substantial lateral load on this bearing when the PTO clutch is engaged. Don't use a cheap Chinese POS bearing just to save a few dollars - because it might self-destruct long before it should.

When assembling the components of the "thrust bearing", the crankshaft must be pulled and held outward while the drive pulley assembly is pushed inward and held while the set screws are tightened.

I guess this was the best solution engineers could come up with when using a plain-bearing engine, but I think it's a real joke. Ball bearings aren't really designed to take lateral loading like a tapered roller bearing, but a tapered roller bearing in an unsealed application wouldn't last very long.

One other thing....... don't get carried away with "tightening" the PTO clutch. The least amount of pressure required to engage the PTO without it slipping is best for this set-up.

Wheel Horse really should have used electromagnetic clutches on all of the tractors with the plain-bearing engines.

[mavfreak 11]

I have a applied technologies (Bearings INC) near me I'll be checking with them.

Thats alot of help TT thanks again. I will be rebuilding this engine soon. Its funny to me that the weight of an electric clutch wouldn't be more than the load of the manual PTO.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

Its funny to me that the weight of an electric clutch wouldn't be more than the load of the manual PTO.

The weight of the electric clutch is actually less than the pressure exerted by the tranz drive belt and/or an attachment drive belt load.

The problem with the plain-bearing engines lies in the flywheel side main bearing area - not on the PTO side.

When the PTO clutch is engaged, the shoulder of the crankshaft journal is shoved tightly against the face of the main bearing bore in the block. If it wipes all of the oil off of that face - which it probably will - the aluminum will smear and can actually block the oil passage to the bearing, resulting in a seized crankshaft.

I can't say that I have seen this much with the opposed twins, but I have seen a few of the 11hp singles (C-111/GT-1142 etc.) with the crankshaft "welded" to the flywheel side of the block. :thumbs:

[mavfreak 11]

TT I understand now what your sating. I kinda had to go out and look at how everything fit together and then it dawned on me what you explained. Thank You.