KB9LOR 4 #1 Posted November 2, 2010 Does anyone have a copy of the Steering service manual for a D series? I have everything fixed on the D-160 but the steering. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh79d160 52 #2 Posted November 2, 2010 I thought some one put up a link for you last week. I thought I also explained how to adjust the stud in the column gear. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh79d160 52 #3 Posted November 2, 2010 http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...t=0entry80157, Steering manual :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh79d160 52 #4 Posted November 2, 2010 I have just done a steering upgrade for one of my D's. I took pictures, just haven't posted them yet. I got most of the parts from JD. I can give you part #'s if you need them. Don't tighten the lower cup unless you have play up & down. If you over tighten it, you just break the plastic bearing cages. Loosen the jam nut that hold the worm gear stud in place (right side I think). It's very important that you only turn it(the stud) clock wise 1/4 turn. What happens is that stud has a blunt tapered point & it wears on two sides. When you turn it 1/4 turn you contact the sides that are not worn. If the steering is still loose in the column, you can turn it in 1/2 turn increments from that point. This keeps contact w/the 2 none worn sides. Let me know if you need pics. I just copy & pasted it from the other thread. I'm not smart enough to link it I guess. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #5 Posted November 2, 2010 I have just done a steering upgrade for one of my D's. I took pictures, just haven't posted them yet. I got most of the parts from JD. I can give you part #'s if you need them. Don't tighten the lower cup unless you have play up & down. If you over tighten it, you just break the plastic bearing cages. Loosen the jam nut that hold the worm gear stud in place (right side I think). It's very important that you only turn it(the stud) clock wise 1/4 turn. What happens is that stud has a blunt tapered point & it wears on two sides. When you turn it 1/4 turn you contact the sides that are not worn. If the steering is still loose in the column, you can turn it in 1/2 turn increments from that point. This keeps contact w/the 2 none worn sides. Let me know if you need pics. I just copy & pasted it from the other thread. I'm not smart enough to link it I guess. It was posted but cannot print(It won't print) therefore I cannot read the manual as I go through the steering mechanism. I was trying to get a printable copy 1. to use in the shop. 2. to put in my files. I did print the above to go by, thank you very much!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh79d160 52 #6 Posted November 2, 2010 ,, I replaced the 2 jam nuts w/a thrust bearing & a lock nut. Haven't put it back in yet. So I can't tell you if it made a big difference or not. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #7 Posted November 2, 2010 Thanks for the pics! Man that is really gonna help! it looks pretty cut and dry. At least the worst part is getting to the thing! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d180man 5 #8 Posted December 2, 2010 Hi they got to the link first hope the book helps good luck on it ! :wh: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #9 Posted December 2, 2010 Got alot of the play out of it, now looking for a sleeve to mount in the dash tower where the steering column goes through it, mine just wallors around...lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bt81camaro 0 #10 Posted February 14, 2011 Not to Hijack the thread, but how is the plate where the bell crank rod goes attached to the gearbox. I was out moving snow away from the road with the loader and lost steering. After looking underneath, the bellcrank is just hanging there ! I need to see figure out what broke or came loose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
defed 0 #11 Posted February 15, 2011 there is a large bolt welded to the back of it, it goes thru the hole in column here the zerk is. the nut you see on the bottom pic is holding it on. i'd guess that you either lost the nut and it fell out, or the weld on the bolt broke. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bt81camaro 0 #12 Posted February 15, 2011 After looking closer, the bolt holding the plate on broke at the head. I guess it is time to pull the column out and check everything while i am at it . Looks like the hardest part will be getting the steering wheel off! Anybody know the size and length of the welded bolt so I can get a new one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
defed 0 #13 Posted February 15, 2011 a bearing puller works pretty well at getting the steering wheel off. it might damage it a little bit, but it makes contact all the way around instead of 3 points like a 3 jaw puller. i found it to be a pain removing the steering shaft. luckily, i was tearing down the whole machine so i had alot of room to work. i have the one sitting here in the house, i was replacing the internals. i can measure the bolt if you need it. depending how it broke, you can probably re-weld it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bt81camaro 0 #14 Posted February 16, 2011 It actually looks to have broken in the plate right at the head. I will try to pull the whole column this weekend. I think I will grind the welds off holding the head on and replace the whole bolt. I figure it has to be getting weak since it broke and want to try to prevent it from happening again. I might as well check everything in the column out while I am doing it. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
