New C 141, have questions

[sail8870 0]

I have never owned a real tractor before, I only had a crappy craftsmen which is horrible. I bought a C141 with a plow, deck, lawn sweeper, weights, and chains for $700. It's in perfect condition with no rust or anything, I'll post pics later. I have a couple of questions, how do you shift while moving? (it is an 8 speed). And are there any problems that people have had with this tractor that I should look out for?

Thanks

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

:)

You don't shift while moving - especially between high and low range. (severe internal damage will result!)

Select the "gear" you want while stopped - and then release the clutch pedal slowly to begin moving.

The biggest problems associated with Wheel Horse tractors are:

1) You will always want to be on it.

2) They multiply - owning one will lead to owning more.

3) No one can seem to figure out what they're worth or what color red to paint them. :thumbs:

[tommy3horse 3]

:thumbs:

Tom

:)

[rmaynard 14,934]

The biggest problems associated with Wheel Horse tractors are:

1) You will always want to be on it.

2) They multiply - owning one will lead to owning more.

3) No one can seem to figure out what they're worth or what color red to paint them.

Never a truer word spoken TT.

Bob

[sail8870 0]

So you hit the brake, then stop completely, the shift, then release the clutch? Or press down the clutch, then hit the brake, shift, then release the brake and clutch? Sorry for the stupid questions, I am a WH noob

[racinfool40 202]

:thumbs: TT hit this one out of the park!!!!!! :)

[wh79d160 52]

You need to be stopped, however you wish to get to that point. You must have the clutch pedal pushed down to shift gears, then shift to whatever gear you want & let off the clutch slowly, depending on what color red your is. :thumbs:

[sail8870 0]

Thanks, and how regularly do I have to inject grease into the fittings throughout the tractor? Also, what weight oil do you recommend for winter and for summer? Again, sorry for all the stupid questions and I appreciate your help

[wh79d160 52]

Depending on which red you tractor is, probably grease the tractor every 10 to 15 hrs. The mower deck spindles every 5 to 10. I use 30 wt year round, but my winter tractors are kept in a heated room, Oh yea. Don't worry about the stupid questions. Those are the only ones I try to answer, Makes me feel like I know something until someone who really does tells me everything I just told you it wrong. :thumbs:

[JimD 3,345]

:wh: sail8870, best of luck with your Horse.

TT, your answer for most common problems should be pinned. :)

[sgtsampay 117]

Welcome to part of your life that you won't be able to escape. It will consume you, until you can;t do anything, but work wheel horses. LOL.

Yeah, TT really summed it up.

I would push in clutch then brake, shift, let off brake, then let of clutch and go to town.. Thats just me though. :thumbs:

[Suburban 550 28]

:wh: I think TT told you about everything you need to know. Good Luck with your new horse. :)

[HankB 16]

Welcome to the fold and

On my 312-8, the left pedal disengages the clutch and then engages the brake when I press it down fully. The right one also brakes independent of the clutch pedal and also can be used to set the parking brake. My Raider 12 has no right pedal and uses the left for all braking and clutching.

Does the left pedal on the C-141 also clutch and brake?

-hank

[Roger from southern Iowa 1]

:)

Welcome to the best forum on the web!!!! :thumbs:

[Daddy Don 893]

:) :thumbs:

[C-Series14 15]

No problems...Use it forever. That's what I do with mine...

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

On my 312-8, the left pedal disengages the clutch and then engages the brake when I press it down fully.

That not exactly what's happening.

If you try this with the tranz in neutral it won't work - because........

what is really happening is that the guide "finger" above the pulley on the drive belt tensioner arm is pinching the drive belt and holding it. This is an intentional design which stops the belt to allow the operator to select a "gear" without grinding (like the clutch-brake on a semi) - and - it pushes the top run of the drive belt forward and - along with the guides and guard - lifts it partially out of the tapered groove of the engine pulley.

With the belt stopped & held and the tranz in any gear, you are doing the same thing as parking it in gear with the engine stopped. Take the tranz out of gear and away you go!

The right pedal is the only one connected to the actual brake band. :thumbs:

[HankB 16]

That not exactly what's happening.

If you try this with the tranz in neutral it won't work - because........

what is really happening is that the guide "finger" above the pulley on the drive belt tensioner arm is pinching the drive belt and holding it. This is an intentional design which stops the belt to allow the operator to select a "gear" without grinding (like the clutch-brake on a semi) - and - it pushes the top run of the drive belt forward and - along with the guides and guard - lifts it partially out of the tapered groove of the engine pulley.

With the belt stopped & held and the tranz in any gear, you are doing the same thing as parking it in gear with the engine stopped. Take the tranz out of gear and away you go!

The right pedal is the only one connected to the actual brake band.

I never new that (But I only added this one to my collection recently.) That's useful to know.

Thanks for the clarification!

(On my 314-H, there is only one pedal that forces the hydro to neutral and then engages the brake.)

-hank